Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitted bilsteins back in with Nismo springs, had rotors machined, fitted new front shaft and changed the steering pump to the new spec one! All in all feels great....but the f#%king vibration is still there under load when powering to the left! .... I'm lost :(

Fitted bilsteins back in with Nismo springs, had rotors machined, fitted new front shaft and changed the steering pump to the new spec one! All in all feels great....but the f#%king vibration is still there under load when powering to the left! .... I'm lost :(

Could it be Atessa related?

Might be....tried bleeding it a couple of times now though.....my go and get it plugged into a consult to run the pump. Onto other new though...the power steering pump works well even though I have no adjustment because if the larger wheel....bit heavy on low revs but nothing unbearable.

drop the shaft from the xfer case to the front diff and see if the vibration disappears

Wont all the transfer fluid drain out?

We really need to find some method of running the attessa pump to assist bleeding, I will look through the wiring diags Prince Skyline lent me but I cant read Japanese...

Wont all the transfer fluid drain out?

We really need to find some method of running the attessa pump to assist bleeding, I will look through the wiring diags Prince Skyline lent me but I cant read Japanese...

Does it happen to be similar to bleeding attesa in a late model gtr?

Does it happen to be similar to bleeding attesa in a late model gtr?

Maybe but cannot find the fuse under the dash.....it's more than likely right in front of my face but I cannot confirm which wire we which!

And yes your right about the shaft Scott!

Maybe but cannot find the fuse under the dash.....it's more than likely right in front of my face but I cannot confirm which wire we which!

And yes your right about the shaft Scott!

isnt it a plug in behind the right kick panel? i remember seeing it somewhere in the stagea manual.. gimme a tic and i will find it.

Here's some pics of everything I've done to the Stagea lately.

Sold the Garrett 2530 and replaced it with a Garrett 3076 :D

post-48775-0-35032000-1298163125_thumb.jpg

Went to see my brother for some stainless allen key bolts and washers to compliment the polishing under the hood.

post-48775-0-81520800-1298163180_thumb.jpg

This is how my engine bay looks now.

post-48775-0-21520600-1298163264_thumb.jpg

Also refitted the HKS pod filter and Greddy catch can. You can also see my radiator and fans setup. There is an oil cooler in there somewhere too :P

post-48775-0-96225300-1298163278_thumb.jpg

:thumbsup:

  • Like 1

isnt it a plug in behind the right kick panel? i remember seeing it somewhere in the stagea manual.. gimme a tic and i will find it.

would be great if you could....then if you could give me a pointer on how or a link to use it that would be great!blush.gif

Fitted bilsteins back in with Nismo springs, had rotors machined, fitted new front shaft and changed the steering pump to the new spec one! All in all feels great....but the f#%king vibration is still there under load when powering to the left! .... I'm lost :(

Once you work out a fix, let me know! I have the same problem with the vibration under load (and cornering). :yucky:

Here's some pics of everything I've done to the Stagea lately.

Sold the Garrett 2530 and replaced it with a Garrett 3076 :D

post-48775-0-35032000-1298163125_thumb.jpg

Went to see my brother for some stainless allen key bolts and washers to compliment the polishing under the hood.

post-48775-0-81520800-1298163180_thumb.jpg

This is how my engine bay looks now.

post-48775-0-21520600-1298163264_thumb.jpg

Also refitted the HKS pod filter and Greddy catch can. You can also see my radiator and fans setup. There is an oil cooler in there somewhere too :P

post-48775-0-96225300-1298163278_thumb.jpg

:thumbsup:

looks killer mate, when does it get tuned??? who's tuning it for ya??

Once you work out a fix, let me know! I have the same problem with the vibration under load (and cornering). :yucky:

Im pretty sure everyone who has lowered their car has a similar vibration...

  • Nope 1

I FINALLY got on the dyno today.

exhaust is restrictive as, but none the less very happy with the result(for now)

229awkw with 702 NM of torque..

exhaust will be changed soon so we'll see how it is in a month.

ill put up a dyno sheet tomorrow at work :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...