Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is what I'm aiming for, what's your setup?

Autech 260RS

Stock bottom end

Stock FPR

R34 GTR turbos < Terry's old turbos :whistling:

Nismo 555cc injectors,

Walbro fuel pump

Power FC

AVCR

Z32s

Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel

HKS 264 deg cams

HKS cam gears

HKS hard piping kit

Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds

Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe

Fujitsubo Cat back

Gutted cat

N1 oil and water pumps

Greddy oil cooler kit

Turbosmart BOVs

312.5kW at 16.5 psi

272kW at 13 psi

yep, the jaycar kit, works perfectly. Just tapped the speedo wire at the dash and hid the box up behind the hazard light switch. It's been in there a while bu I had to adjust it because I've changed rim/tyre size recently.

Nismo dash is the main reason I had to fix the speedo. A big digital speedo is just annoying when it's wrong!

stagea_dash.jpg

Drunkan, you've fixed the speedo, but the tacho looks like the reading is out of whack too. And what wheels and tyres are you running now? Pics please?

Oil change (my last bottle of GW Sougi s6000), and a yearly inspection of the turbo oil feed banjo. Was enlarged to 1.5mm last year.

Sparkly clean as usual; but 15 minutes well spent.thumbsup.gif

Looks like I'll be changing to the new GW SYN-X 6000 for the next one.

Oil change (my last bottle of GW Sougi s6000), and a yearly inspection of the turbo oil feed banjo. Was enlarged to 1.5mm last year.

Sparkly clean as usual; but 15 minutes well spent.thumbsup.gif

Looks like I'll be changing to the new GW SYN-X 6000 for the next one.

I checked my banjo this week and it was squeaky clean. I didn't enlarge the size of it though.

Edited by slippylotion

I checked my banjo this week and it was squeaky clean. I didn't enlarge the size of it though.

Whether or not to enlarge seems to be a personal thing; to each his own. There's no question; it's cheap insurance to remove & inspect.thumbsup.gif

Autech 260RS

Stock bottom end

Stock FPR

R34 GTR turbos < Terry's old turbos :whistling:

Nismo 555cc injectors,

Walbro fuel pump

Power FC

AVCR

Z32s

Greddy suction kit and cold air box with factory snorkel

HKS 264 deg cams

HKS cam gears

HKS hard piping kit

Yoshida Garage custom ported head and port matched exhaust manifolds

Greddy extended split dumps and front pipe

Fujitsubo Cat back

Gutted cat

N1 oil and water pumps

Greddy oil cooler kit

Turbosmart BOVs

312.5kW at 16.5 psi

272kW at 13 psi

Nice Build, bet its great to drive

I was just wondering how the Power FC goes with the 260RS, Im assuming you used the one specific for the R33 GTR/RB26

Did you have any issues getting it to work, does anything not work as its meant to.

from what i have read it "should" work fine in the stag but i have not asked anyone who has actually done it,

Thanks

Nice Build, bet its great to drive

I was just wondering how the Power FC goes with the 260RS, Im assuming you used the one specific for the R33 GTR/RB26

Did you have any issues getting it to work, does anything not work as its meant to.

from what i have read it "should" work fine in the stag but i have not asked anyone who has actually done it,

Thanks

No problems here

Drunkan, you've fixed the speedo, but the tacho looks like the reading is out of whack too. And what wheels and tyres are you running now? Pics please?

Yeah mate that tacho is wierd....lucky mid 90s LCDs had such crap resolution. It consistently reads 500rpm high, not like the speedo that was a % wrong (ie wronger the faster you go)

I've got R34 GTR rims (finally clearning the brakes properly) and 255/40/18 Federals. No pics it's too wet :P

Also fit Z32 AFM today, total fail. SOmeone has played silly buggers with the Z32 AFM curve on my Powerfc and it's not running properly. I'll probably put the standard AFM back on until I can get a tune.

Nice Build, bet its great to drive

I was just wondering how the Power FC goes with the 260RS, Im assuming you used the one specific for the R33 GTR/RB26

Did you have any issues getting it to work, does anything not work as its meant to.

from what i have read it "should" work fine in the stag but i have not asked anyone who has actually done it,

Thanks

I am running a R32 GTR PowerFC and the car runs fine, an R33 PowerFC would also work.

I Run a R33 PFC (on a R33 RB26) with almost identical setup, minus the inlet and hard piping kit, but I'm still around 20kw short of your power. Guess its time to order those Z32s and the Greddy kit then... thumbsup.gif Good to see whats possible with stock bottom end and turbos...

Found a little cubby hole for a oil catch can today. Hopefully will minimise the amount of oil going out the end of these bloody VQ's. Have to go to pirtek tomorrow and get some real hose- as usual the stuff they give you is massively shit.

Had fun packing that mother full of steel wool!!!!cool.gif

you need one from an RS with hicas, or an ARX. but only vq25det

Not true. Pretty sure Craig said 350Z 5MT rear diff, but I'd have to check.

I think the VQ25DD front diff is the good one though, haven't double checked yet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...