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Finally have the car back!

-New front bearings

-New front break rotors

-New whiteline rear sway bar linkages

-Hypergear High Flow (G1 i believe)

-Scotty Dump & Front pipe

-3.5" rear pipe(thanks again Scotty!)

-New smile, connecting left ear to right ear

(-Potentially new missus when she realises exactly how much i have spent and why we are no longer renovation the house over xmas!)

Huge thanks to R&D Mechanical for doing all the work too!

  • Like 4

Nah sorry mate no pics, also, i have the stock rear pipe & muffler on atm.

Last thing i needed was the missus sitting in the car next to me for 3 day asking why i spent 4k to make the car "noisier" :P

When i get back ill have it refitted, that way i can go the straight pipe or mid muffler or whatever suits me. Ill take some happy snaps then too!

got to love bathurst weekend

get some work done on the cars

stagea has new oil
fitted up the washer bottle ( coverts s1 rs260 into a s2)
new gb oil
new diff oil
new power fc to run the z32 metres

might even give it a was
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fix intake gasket
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and a new g sensor
DSC_0394_zps48126821.jpg

  • Like 1

installed complete squid conversion headlights with xenon's as my old set had the conversion to suit normal off the shelf globes.. was gaaaay.. and were so yellowed. new set came off a c34 with about 80000kms.

Got some custom plates waiting to go on " MR C34".. Currently have "RSC 304".

possibly buying a s2 NA grille.

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  • Like 3

so this week

new windscreen in as the wife's car subi turbo blew on Tuesday so got the windscreen put in and driving with a little dent in the roof from the tree, installed safc and rsm on Friday so having a play with that

^ nice, so it wasn't written off?

Well I brought it back from Shannon's for a steal, waited and had nothing form qld roads about rego, checked rego and still registered so put a windscreen in it and now driving if, looks terrible but u get that!

  • Like 1

Last week i replaced the plugs in our m35 cos it ran like crap. Sure enough the electrode gap opened to almost 1.5 mm. And was blowing the boost out.

Now it really hammers. Turns out the combo of hiflo turbo and turbo back exhaust cranks boost to 16 psi (installed new gauge too).

But then 3 days later i go ahead and stack it on the way back from work.

So now its in the panel shop

Replaced the passenger side Cam Angle Sensor cause ANNOYYYINNNGGGG!!!!!!

bout 2 weeks till hypergear highflow goes in so i'm trying to get the car running as best as i can by then :P

  • Like 1

Haven't posted here before. Owned my Stagea for nearly 2 years now and I've done the following mods:

BC coilovers

3 inch straight pipe

Yellow jacket coilpacks

Leather interior

Boost tee

Custom front mount intercooler

Roof racks/fairing

Bigger wing

Dayz front bar

Dayz rear lip

Dash gauges boost & oil temp

Black headlights

Full manual conversion at home waiting to be put in.

Photos from when I first bought it, til now.

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  • Like 2

new stuff from RU with love) 50 mm core CSF race radiator, SPAL fans, CNC custom made brackets. replacing 38 mm all-the-aluminiun no-name radiator and full-frame plate for fans (worked well, but i can't sit without new parts - i'm cooling fan)

old one:

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http://www.drive2.ru/l/820268/ - more pics by link

replaced with real porn one)

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more pics - http://www.drive2.ru/l/4893936/

am i right with welding temp sensor in upper bank?

fans are precisely regulated by PWM controller, which reads from 1/8 NPT sensor (i use OEM, same as ECU's main)

  • Like 4

Looks good Erop! Any significantly measurable drops in temperature?

I popped another OEM AFM yesterday (I think that's my third?), I was only 1km from home though - so not too far to limp it. I fortunately had one of Scottys 'after market' units on hand so I swapped that in & it was happy days. Haven't bothered to clear the code yet, but its driving fine ;)

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
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    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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