Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To overcome some current boost issues and in anticipation of things to come I fitted an Eboost2 HP. Works well it’s only a stock turbo so 10psi is it. It works well. It also has the dual shift light on it

  • 2 weeks later...

45893015_2201894890051722_8361689472860946432_n.thumb.jpg.c5746e4eb0e3943d6b8f5c3613fc4f78.jpgInstalled some BC coilovers on the weekend, and finally got round to fitting the rear 350z brembos. 

FYI 350z uses different rear brake lines to Stageas. Bought a set of steel braided lines for a 350z brembo setup, the fronts fit fine but the rears use a different connector to what the stagea has.

45 minutes ago, Long and low said:

That's good to know about the break lines. 

How mong did it take you to install the bc's? I have a set for sale but I'm always tempted to just put them in

Rears were a breeze. Fronts took a bit of persuasion with a jack and some other tools

  • Thanks 1
4 hours ago, Hertz Donut said:

Bought it a Honda S2000 garage-mate to make it feel fat and slobby and unloved. VTEC has allegedly been engaged, all of you.

Pics!!

Nothing handy, but imagine a slightly portly, balding, middle-aged bloke saying "oof!" as he attempts to wedge himself behind the non-adjustable steering wheel of a small, red roadster. That's meeeeeeee!

 

PS: All the rpms work. I checked. A few times.

Edited by Hertz Donut
  • 3 weeks later...

Spend the day fiddling with the rear BC coilovers. 

This is as low as I can get them without the shock almost being maxed out. 

Took out one of the locking rings and even the lower rubber mount. (dodgy yes I know) 

But any lower and the spring will literally fall out going over a bump. 

 

Anyone else have trouble getting real low on the rear with BC coilovers? 

The front seems to slam easy no problem

20181210_144136.jpg

20181210_144141.jpg

I've been gone a loooong time. Old stagea blew a fitting at the back on the firewall and lost all my coolant.. temp gauge never moved and ultimately killed my engine. Spent a couple months without a stagea and really missed it.. so here I am again, just picked up this RS-v on the weekend, 25DET manual rwd. Sunroof too. Extremely happy

IMG_0943.jpeg

  • Like 3
34 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Very nice. Wheels look ok too! Got a budget for mods or have you spent all your money buying the car and have to save up?

Cheers, no budget for mods yet. Just want to enjoy it for a bit first, quite a bit different to the old slow 25de 4wd stag I had beforehand. I just need to change the BOV to a recirc one as the car idles quite rough at the moment. Otherwise its pretty mint

13 hours ago, NicPM35 said:

Spend the day fiddling with the rear BC coilovers. 

This is as low as I can get them without the shock almost being maxed out. 

Took out one of the locking rings and even the lower rubber mount. (dodgy yes I know) 

But any lower and the spring will literally fall out going over a bump. 

 

Anyone else have trouble getting real low on the rear with BC coilovers? 

The front seems to slam easy no problem

20181210_144136.jpg

20181210_144141.jpg

This is with standard shocks and cobra lows. I have bc gold to go in. I'll be pissed if they are no better.

20180509_090209.jpg

40 minutes ago, Long and low said:

This is with standard shocks and cobra lows. I have bc gold to go in. I'll be pissed if they are no better.

20180509_090209.jpg

Are you referring to the BC BR kit? Because that what I'm using.

Maybe return them before installing if you want to go any lower than mine? 

Although I'm not sure if it'll be the same story, assuming yours is AWD rear anyway and uses coil on shock rear? 

Edited by NicPM35

Installed Audi R8 coilpack conversion kit from 5-0 ignite, had to do some intake mods for clearances, otherwise would need to have changed to front face plenum and costs/other mods weren't desirable at this point 

DSC_0882.JPG

DSC_0881.JPG

  • Like 1
9 hours ago, oxford1327 said:

Installed Audi R8 coilpack conversion kit from 5-0 ignite, had to do some intake mods for clearances, otherwise would need to have changed to front face plenum and costs/other mods weren't desirable at this point 

DSC_0882.JPG

DSC_0881.JPG

Do you have a tuneable ecu or were no adjustments necessary?

Got nistune in it, but didn't need to change anything for it to start and run fine so far. 

Once it goes back to dyno will alter the dwell time as per recommended by        5-0ignite that make the kit. 

Thus far car runs and idles smoother, as well as no longer seems to stutter under high throttle load, whether that's the old noggin playing tricks remains to be seen once dyno sheet is compared etc. 

On 12/12/2018 at 8:27 PM, Akshunhiro said:

I've got MCA coilovers in mine and they go nice and low in the rear. Josh did a true coilover setup rather than separate strut and spring setup from stock.

Does that mean the rear weight of the car is now on the 2 small bolts holding the original shock in place? Assuming the spring is no longer in it's perch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...