Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and just to touch on the said sump builder, he races a 32 gtst that runs anywhere between 450-600kw's and is one well sorted rig. wet sump, no oil drama's. oh and it revs well beyond 9

also, love this build to death, huge inspiration for my own build. keep up the good work

Hey Russman

Have you sorted a sump? regardless what you buy you will need gates not just baffles and extra capacity. My tuner builds them. modified pick-up gated and winged. they arent cheap but non of them will be. i think $1200 bolt up no mods.

you also have an rb25 gearbox dont you russ? thats another 15 odd kg over a 20 box.

im guessing you have an unstripped loom? do you have factory intrusion bars in the doors? its been proven time and time again that stripping door frames has little advantage. viva garage used to do very cheap fiberglass doors that cost around 400-500$ most of the weight in standard doors is in the hinge and latch areas. not easy to remove them.

if you take a look under the back of the car and the subframe there is a lot of small weight to be gained. We were able to get bens targa car to 1230 in rally trim without any expensive light weight parts.

if you want to cut weight you have to look at everything as weight. and work out if you need it or not and how you can make it lighter. every little bit counts. and remember removing weight is free power and free brakes.

Good luck for WTA

Yeah Racepace are making me a sump and modified pickup. It is gated.

Getting fitted today.

Yeah 25 box.

Loom is yet to be stripped out...

Door intrusions will be removed soon. Even with fibreglass doors you still need to retain the latch and hinge so I'll stick with my steel doors till I have some money to burn.

Think the next big thing after I strip doors and fit lexan will be the loom. cbf at this stage. If I have time before WTA I'll give it a go.

thanks for the input.

Re wiring from scratch is where you'll make decent gains. I just striped mine down to the minimum up the the fuse box and I saved about 3kg. Nothing to write home about but better than a kick up the ass. Intrusion bars are 2.5kg, each plus I took some door frame out to help getting the bars out, whick took it up to 3kgs. Lexan and lightweight mirrors netted me just over 6kg saved per door.

With an R32 it's 100x easier to get some series 1 doors than drill the bars out. I've got a feeling they are made out of thinner steel too, as there is 10kg a door difference between s1 and s2

If i remember Russ, I'll ask Collins how much wiring he got out of that fire engine gts-t mentioned earlier.

I saw half way pics and a fair bit of crap had come out of it, be interesting to know just how much the end result of a strip/re-wire was

Unfortunately the new custom sump was modelled on an R33 and it didn't clear the swaybar enough when we put it in last week.

Because of this we missed out at PI on the weekend. I had brand new rubber on the thing and was ready to go but no such luck...

Upside to that is I got more done on the splitter. Only a little bit to go and it'll be done.

Thanks to Matt and the guys at SX Developments for the advice and sharing their support frame design.

Started with an MDF sheet

post-10715-0-99604600-1341319121_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-65550900-1341319230_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-26652300-1341319249_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-84348200-1341319261_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-72666500-1341319273_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-43444700-1341319291_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-47516100-1341319306_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-18545500-1341319320_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-94788800-1341319333_thumb.jpg

Also fitted up a power steering cooler to get past some heavy steering after a few laps.

post-10715-0-17573600-1341319409_thumb.jpg

Russ, interested in how you mounted the front tow hook... Can't really see from the pictures what it's bolted to?

It's bolted to the chassis further back. Had to weld an extension so it would protrude though. They never sell them long enough.

With the splitter we have ideas on what we want to do long term but time doesn't permit for this year. Perhaps next year.

Carbon fibre and much fancier diffusers.

Are you going to leave the splitter as mdf or are you going to make a mold of it?

I can't remember reading back about it but did you change your front spring rates when you changed to the 25? Do you mind sharing what you are running?

Looking good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...