Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

So it's been a while since I've posted an update. That's because I've been so flat out! What a hectic month!

I'll go through the lead up first and then talk about WTAC and how massive the weekend was and how my mates/team helped me achieve a great result!

So PI as you may have read in Kory's write up didn't go to plan.

A faulty injector plug on cylinder 5 caused this...

post-10715-0-14304300-1345031410_thumb.jpg

The day after we had it pulled down and everything ready to go on Campbell's motor that he donated so I could get to WTAC.

post-10715-0-87535000-1345031951_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-04299700-1345031749_thumb.jpg

We also noticed that the ASI ebay radiator wasn't handling the pressures of racing. Kinda a bit bent...

So we got a racepace spec radiator and so far it's great. temps have never been so low. It's crazy effective.

post-10715-0-66902600-1345031464_thumb.jpg

The lexan glass is now in.

post-10715-0-70840100-1345032135_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-86731800-1345032221_thumb.jpg

Johnny and matt ripped into the doors and all up took out 15kg, that's just steel! Glass on top of that!

post-10715-0-96876700-1345032300_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-43011400-1345032413_thumb.jpg

All this weight reduction got the car down to 1249kg with no driver and no fuel. Not bad for a full caged car!

post-10715-0-25634700-1345032597_thumb.jpg

So the mad engineers bent me up a Gurney flap for the rear wing.

post-10715-0-25294100-1345032857_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-50541200-1345032922_thumb.jpg

Matt separating the fibreglass headlight from the mould. This by the way was tuesday night around 11pm. We left for WTAC on wednesday morning 5:30!

post-10715-0-33611900-1345033135_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-88018400-1345033044_thumb.jpg

Front splitter painted last minute for WTAC

post-10715-0-85692200-1345033197_thumb.jpg

I think I'll leave it there for now. The WTAC story is a big one so I'll post that up at a later date.

That ASI radiator photo is exactly what flea-bay lovers need to see.

Good for a street car, not suitable for trackwork, reflected in the price.

I agree 90%

For most guys they are fine

But on a car like Russ'

Well the pictures speak 1000 words

Back on topic, how did you find the gurney flap Russ? Noticeable difference?

Love the build, though I'd be remaking the gurney lap if I were you. The height of the flap looks too large for the chord length of that wing. You'll be getting an inefficient level of drag associated with the extra down force the flap is creating. You should be looking at a gurney flap of around 5 -10mm in height.

Rad was fine for 1 year of track work. Got gradually worse. Seen them on other track cars so thought they'd hold up. No problems with cooling though, just construction. Looks like its deformed from high pressure. No head gasket issues, that's what we first thought haha.

Gurney flap and change of angle was very noticeable at turn 1 EC. The car felt way more stable and I think it may have had something to do with the final session being 1 sec quicker! The boot required re-packing after every session. By the end of saturday we had about 4-5 washers spacing it up! Need to do something more permanent now. Proper boot lid re-enforcement.

The gurney was actually mounted underneath the wing to begin with but spoke to an aero guy at WTAC and he recommended putting it above the wing so it sits higher as a result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...