Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

So it's been a while since I've posted an update. That's because I've been so flat out! What a hectic month!

I'll go through the lead up first and then talk about WTAC and how massive the weekend was and how my mates/team helped me achieve a great result!

So PI as you may have read in Kory's write up didn't go to plan.

A faulty injector plug on cylinder 5 caused this...

post-10715-0-14304300-1345031410_thumb.jpg

The day after we had it pulled down and everything ready to go on Campbell's motor that he donated so I could get to WTAC.

post-10715-0-87535000-1345031951_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-04299700-1345031749_thumb.jpg

We also noticed that the ASI ebay radiator wasn't handling the pressures of racing. Kinda a bit bent...

So we got a racepace spec radiator and so far it's great. temps have never been so low. It's crazy effective.

post-10715-0-66902600-1345031464_thumb.jpg

The lexan glass is now in.

post-10715-0-70840100-1345032135_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-86731800-1345032221_thumb.jpg

Johnny and matt ripped into the doors and all up took out 15kg, that's just steel! Glass on top of that!

post-10715-0-96876700-1345032300_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-43011400-1345032413_thumb.jpg

All this weight reduction got the car down to 1249kg with no driver and no fuel. Not bad for a full caged car!

post-10715-0-25634700-1345032597_thumb.jpg

So the mad engineers bent me up a Gurney flap for the rear wing.

post-10715-0-25294100-1345032857_thumb.jpgpost-10715-0-50541200-1345032922_thumb.jpg

Matt separating the fibreglass headlight from the mould. This by the way was tuesday night around 11pm. We left for WTAC on wednesday morning 5:30!

post-10715-0-33611900-1345033135_thumb.jpg

post-10715-0-88018400-1345033044_thumb.jpg

Front splitter painted last minute for WTAC

post-10715-0-85692200-1345033197_thumb.jpg

I think I'll leave it there for now. The WTAC story is a big one so I'll post that up at a later date.

That ASI radiator photo is exactly what flea-bay lovers need to see.

Good for a street car, not suitable for trackwork, reflected in the price.

I agree 90%

For most guys they are fine

But on a car like Russ'

Well the pictures speak 1000 words

Back on topic, how did you find the gurney flap Russ? Noticeable difference?

Love the build, though I'd be remaking the gurney lap if I were you. The height of the flap looks too large for the chord length of that wing. You'll be getting an inefficient level of drag associated with the extra down force the flap is creating. You should be looking at a gurney flap of around 5 -10mm in height.

Rad was fine for 1 year of track work. Got gradually worse. Seen them on other track cars so thought they'd hold up. No problems with cooling though, just construction. Looks like its deformed from high pressure. No head gasket issues, that's what we first thought haha.

Gurney flap and change of angle was very noticeable at turn 1 EC. The car felt way more stable and I think it may have had something to do with the final session being 1 sec quicker! The boot required re-packing after every session. By the end of saturday we had about 4-5 washers spacing it up! Need to do something more permanent now. Proper boot lid re-enforcement.

The gurney was actually mounted underneath the wing to begin with but spoke to an aero guy at WTAC and he recommended putting it above the wing so it sits higher as a result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...