Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dammit, first accident ever. Luckily it was only minor. Hit the back of my friends motorbike at a roundabout, thought he was ready to go as it was relatively clear and he stopped, ended up hitting the back. His bike is basically undamaged, but it looks like I need a new front bumper.

The good news is I was going to change my front bumper next year, so I guess it's just an early upgrade. Do I need to get a Series 1 Reo for most front bumpers? I don't want to go Series 2 again. Also, can someone link me to a decently priced aftermarket bumper? I love the GTR look but from what I've seen I'll also need to change the bonnet and quarter panels.

The good news is that its just the front bumper, the better news is that your mate it ok after getting hit by 1.5 tonne of metal :P

Well that's true haha. Luckily it was only at a few km/h, and not something more serious.

I think I've also decided on the Top Secret bar as well, seems to be the closest to the GTR while not costing an arm and leg.

My car was broken into on Saturday night. Doesn't help the I left the keys in the ignition on Saturday and forgot them in there overnight.

The only taken was about $20 in coins from the centre console. I consider myself lucky.

Dammit, first accident ever. Luckily it was only minor. Hit the back of my friends motorbike at a roundabout, thought he was ready to go as it was relatively clear and he stopped, ended up hitting the back. His bike is basically undamaged, but it looks like I need a new front bumper.

The good news is I was going to change my front bumper next year, so I guess it's just an early upgrade. Do I need to get a Series 1 Reo for most front bumpers? I don't want to go Series 2 again. Also, can someone link me to a decently priced aftermarket bumper? I love the GTR look but from what I've seen I'll also need to change the bonnet and quarter panels.

What you need is the headlight supports. (the black bits). The reo bar, the actual big massive metal bit in the middle is the same part for series 1 and 2. The headlight supports are different. A lot of people refer to the headlight supports as "the reo bar" or part of the whole assembly, so the whole "is it the same or different" can both be answered with "Yes" depending on who you ask.

(and of course I have a front bar and reo for sale but its all series 2 ;))

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...