Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well if it helps mine was flashing non stop auto elec tried looked everywhere turned out autobarn slightly snipped wire in passenger footwell that was causing the light on dash to flash so they fixed that and problem forever solved

That's the thing, I'm pretty certain something is cut or unplugged or what have you. Happened since an engine swap :P. Was looking for info as to where everything should be, the only thing I have to go on is the pinout diagram on the SRS ECU behind the handbrake, which is I guess what I'll have to do

Srs plugs are yellow, I'm betting you're missing an srs module or something

It was working prior to the engine/transmission swap, would be odd for an entire module to just go missing.. but was trying to find info on where it would be...

You still have the stock ecu so can't my consult 3 plug into it to read stuff Greg?

Probably!

The epic autoelec did try and read this, but it didn't actually throw an error, which according to the workshop manual says voltage to the system is under 9v

Which could easily mean a wire is snipped........somewhere

Spoke to import monster about sourcing some brand new wheels and said they can get direct from wholesale. Didnt think you could wholesale wheels... Especially with so many size variations and styles. Its not like theyre shoes or something

lol ^

Never buy a car at w'bee nissan biggest bunch of flogs I've dealt with in my life.

They owe me $8 been chasing it for 2 months! How places remain in business when they offer such horrible customer service is mind boggling

Side note - has nothing to do with the amount just the principal of the matter

That sounds exactly like shoes...

shoes have sizes + colours, plus are fairly small boxes.

wheels are large, come in a combination of sizes (#'diameter x #'widths x #'PCD x #'offsets = a f**kload). how can you have wholesale if most of it is made to order?

I inquired because wheel manufacturer brochure says wheel cost 90,000yen for example, but can buy brand new on yahoo auctions (in any offset you want) for 48,000yen.

fkwit kids have realised that they can do what they want without getting a punishment which is equivalent to the crime...

I say, do an adult crime, get punished like an adult.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...