Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Many manifolds are built and sold as split pulse using one gate, if the waste gate pipe work isn't separated with tube work and a file fit devider right to the gate valve, then it's not true split pulse just as Micheal suggested full stop. He too is correct re two gates if one flows sufficiently to control turbine speed there are as many down sides as up in using two gates over one.

cant remember but i heard that a few times. with a merge collected mani like a 6boost, the exhaust is not clashing tho is it ? coz its merge collected ?

If it was a 3 cylinder engine, that would be true but with 6, there are more than 1 runners trying to have access to the "shared flange" at the same time, regardless of how good the collector is.

As the highest pressure point it makes sense to me to run the gate off the housing which is why I talked Artz into it. The idea for my setup, (if I ever get around to making it) is to get the flow straight through the turbo, cutting out the back of the scroll and making the wastegate the priority when it is open. With twin scroll just run the splitter up to the gate and the same will apply.

Too many setups I see favour the turbo at the expense of the wastegate flow which would mean too much power is lost up top imo.

^^ This

You also need to be careful how far around the scroll you put the pipe and try to avoid making the pipe flow the same or similar direction as the scroll of the turbine housing. The idea is to create a high speed pressure drop at the high pressure area but avoid restricting the flow by making an easier path while the gate is shut. By doing it almost 90deg to the scroll you will achieve that.

We don't have back to back results to share unfortunately, but we have a brilliant view from up here standing on top of all the failed attempts at manifold designs we have seen and had tuned when people supply manifolds to us.

Sean at EFI started noticing more hp on the cars that they ran gates off housings and better boost response and control than other identical setups. We started doing it (a little sceptical at first for sure). The results spoke for themselves and we just do it that way every time now. There have been a couple I've done where we actually had another manifold made for the customer and binned their 'namebrand' steam pipe manifold as they got a much better result that way.

GTR_Joey - the only reason it's better than 2 gates is because it works just as well (2 gates works extremely well) but you only have to buy 1 gate. Premium gates aren't cheap. That's a nitrous kit worth :)

*No manifolds were harmed in the making of this post

Split pulse is about grouping multiple pulses in two banks (in the case that the turbo is twin scroll) 123/456 (as one cylinder fires in pulse group 1 then 1 fires in group2 and so on) in the case of an rb. Nothing to do with individual cylinders having access to a shared flange nor trying to keep cylinders individual (other than grouped).

3 is more than 1 too :)

Gas isn't constantly flowing out of each exhaust port. Each exhaust pulse happens over a period of about 220 degrees of engine rotation. it takes 720 degrees for a full cycle through all of the cylinders. 3 cylinder engine has. 220 x 3 = 660 which is pretty close to 720 so there is no overlap of exhaust pulses and pretty much no gap between them either. 6 cylinders into 1 means that most of the time, there are 2 runners flowing into the merge collector at the same time.

This isn't a difficult excercise. Too many of you are worrying too much about wtf is happening inside your engine or manifold. If anyone worried as much about fuel choice or correct injector/pump sizing instead, most would not need to worry about their manifold design because they would be out smashing v8's all over the place and pulling chicks because their shit is so awesome.

steam pipe, good merge collector, lots of boost - there! I just designed all your manifolds.

If you've spent 100k on your setup, are going to WTAC and need to worry about every tenth of a second and beating the guy next to you that spent 101k, split pulse is the way to go. Spend hours, if not days, pondering the length of the runners and the internal dimensions of the collector to make sure at 10,000 magnification, you have no raised edges anywhere to disrupt flow.

1. Most manifold makers don't understand the true physics behind the design or even how the engine works

2. Most split pulse manifolds (if done correctly int he first place) are going to give you 100rpm response gain over your standard run of the mill CRG/6Boost manifold

3. More time can be spent consuming alcohol than worrying about something that is going to give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit. I'd rather shorten my life by alcohol than by stressing over manifolds

4. Tomei did back to back testing - split pulse vs single entry and tuned length vs normal runner manifolds in every possible combination and the results were basically nil gain or so minimal it wasn't worth the extra coin

Favouring the wastegate means you can get better boost control with a smaller gate. As mentioned most setups are turbo placement first wastegate after... should be the other way around. Twin wastegates will always work well because the placement can be less than ideal and still control boost, it masks the design problem of the wastegate outlet being in a poor position.

A turbo always looks nicer under bonnet as the showpiece, not a dirty great big wastegate and a turbo hidden under a manifold!!!!!

Favouring the wastegate means you can get better boost control with a smaller gate. As mentioned most setups are turbo placement first wastegate after... should be the other way around.

Not only better boost control, better exhaust flow which means more powah.

No-one can see my turbo so I guess looks are out of the question. :P

4. Tomei did back to back testing - split pulse vs single entry and tuned length vs normal runner manifolds in every possible combination and the results were basically nil gain or so minimal it wasn't worth the extra coin

They should have borrowed my bum dyno. I reckon that the hairs on my arse cheeks rise just a bit quicker than with the single scroll.

It makes all the difference when you are racing......

.......from the traffic jam at one red light to the next on the fine roads in Sydney's North Western suburbs.

is there a reason why I never see exhaust housing like the below for RBs?

I'm all in for the mount waste gate on exhaust housing, but prefer if it was cast like that instead of an mod (mainly due to cost & future possibility of cracking)

GT3076R%20WRX%20upgrade%20external.JPG

They should have borrowed my bum dyno. I reckon that the hairs on my arse cheeks rise just a bit quicker than with the single scroll.

It makes all the difference when you are racing......

.......from the traffic jam at one red light to the next on the fine roads in Sydney's North Western suburbs.

Lol. The traffic light racing scene from Ali G came instantly to mind

tmb_350_480.jpg

1. Most manifold makers don't understand the true physics behind the design or even how the engine works

Agreed

2. Most split pulse manifolds (if done correctly int he first place) are going to give you 100rpm response gain over your standard run of the mill CRG/6Boost manifold

Not so much agreed.

3. More time can be spent consuming alcohol than worrying about something that is going to give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit. I'd rather shorten my life by alcohol than by stressing over manifolds

I half agree with this :) Don't make a decision, just get drunk - go onto the net and order a twin scroll manifold from a reputablable dealer.

4. Tomei did back to back testing - split pulse vs single entry and tuned length vs normal runner manifolds in every possible combination and the results were basically nil gain or so minimal it wasn't worth the extra coin

That is very strange, I rate your opinion and experience high on most topics and if I hadn't seen otherwise with my own eyes I'd take that fully on board - and I am still taking note, but the amount of times I've seen results personally which are completely to the contrary is overwhelming.

Alternatively, taking that to its logical conclusion we'd say that unless we are racing at top level there is no point modifying our cars full stop - but that completely misses the point of our hobby, we'd just buy cars to get from point A to point B and be more than happy with a stock GTR/GTS. Rationally that makes sense, but we aren't doing this because we have to.

is there a reason why I never see exhaust housing like the below for RBs?

I'm all in for the mount waste gate on exhaust housing, but prefer if it was cast like that instead of an mod (mainly due to cost & future possibility of cracking)

It wont crack if the weld is done right as there is very little expansion on such a small part. I prefer to buy the stainless Tial or Tial copy housings and modify them with stainless schedule 10 as welding cast to mild steel steampipe is a little harder. Cost wise, if you get a Tial copy housing and get me to cut a port, it would work out cheaper than a Garrett rear and flow much more freely.

There have been no issues so far with any of the housings I have modified, even with track work and hard dyno tuning. It's a great budget option as it will save you buying an aftermarket manifold.

GTR_Joey - the only reason it's better than 2 gates is because it works just as well (2 gates works extremely well) but you only have to buy 1 gate. Premium gates aren't cheap. That's a nitrous kit worth :)

*No manifolds were harmed in the making of this post

Excellent, still happy I have the twin scroll with dual gates :D

The thing that turns me off dual gates (besides price) is how tight of a fit it will be for everything.

So much so that you would probably have to pre assemble everything to get it in and if you wanna take something off for some reason, it might have to come out as a whole thing as well.

Is that the case with the one you made up Scotty?

Edited by Mitcho_7

is there a reason why I never see exhaust housing like the below for RBs?

I'm all in for the mount waste gate on exhaust housing, but prefer if it was cast like that instead of an mod (mainly due to cost & future possibility of cracking)

GT3076R%20WRX%20upgrade%20external.JPG

I don't expect mine to crack anytime soon:004-2.jpg

The thing that turns me off dual gates (besides price) is how tight of a fit it will be for everything.

So much so that you would probably have to pre assemble everything to get it in and if you wanna take something off for some reason, it might have to come out as a whole thing as well.

Is that the case with the one you made up Scotty?

It was definitely a pita to fit, the turbo had to be bolted to the manifold with the gates and screamer in place then bolted to the head. With a better wastegate placement it would have made the job a lot easier but that is how 6boost manufactures his split manifolds.

The new split pulse 6boost manifold with twin 40mm compgates we run on our car was not difficult to fit at all. I actually have alot more access then I was expecting! Rb30det in r33 gtst though whether that makes much difference. No abs either which no doubt helps abit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...