Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahh cheers dude. Yeah my kando lines are fine as far as i can tell. They also sent me the wrong size banjo fitting first time round haha.

I got my package last week from Kando, mofo sent me the wrong crush washers lol.. 2x too many medium ones and 2x short for the smaller ones...

Still waiting on my hypergear turbo... [haz a gate mounted on it] wooooo

  • 3 months later...

So no updates in a while. Good news is my compression test was all between 167-170.

Bad news is latest test shows 161,155,140,150,144,113. I am suspecting that the head is warped, don't think the headgasket could be that rooted all round could it? Warped head means throw away yeah or is it able to be machined true again and i will just run a slightly thicker headgasket to compensate? Either way bad news.

But the good news is that i have 2 RB30 bottom ends sitting in the shed waiting for me to pull the engine out :)

Should also say that i did do 4 track days with the NEO in and it was amazing to drive. It never missed a beat until i got to Winton for the matsuri this year and it did nothing but overheat. Flushed (forwards and backwards) the engine and radiator, took the thermostat out, front bar off, replaced radiator and nothing could keep it cool. Once it got over 100deg it would just keep going to 120+deg.

Cool down laps (fast and slow and varying RPM) spraying water over the intercooler and radiator, pouring water on the radiator. Nothing could bring the temp down except shutting it down and leaving it sit.

I pretty much decided i wasn't going to drive 20 hours to not drive so i thrashed it as hard as i could until it started to overheat (maybe 4-5 laps a session) so i can't say it didn't treat me well, i was giving it hell. Not showing any signs of a f**ked headgasket. No oil in water or bubbling radiator, just the low compression. It still idles fine and drives fine, obviously you can feel its substantially down on power but still gets up and goes when it comes onto boost.

Anyway, the general plan in RB25/30 NEO, 6BOOST high mount, 45mm Turbosmart gate, Hypergear SS2, Greddy FFP, Xspurt 1000cc, E85.

Yeah i know that that is what made me suspect head gasket in the first place, i just meant no other signs, usually you get the overheating, oil/water mix and bubbling in your cooling system.

Yeah me too for the same reason haha. I was going to do a leak down test but in the end i decided i will take the time to do everything properly and the way i wanted it. Before i wanted to keep it with standard plenum and manifolds with low mount internal gate. But i decided with the height the car sits at and being able to see the roll cage through the rear window, if i get pulled over i will be getting defected anyway, not much i can do to hide it.

May as well go and make it an all out track car now and drive it until rego expires or the boys in blue catch up with me haha. I was thinking about it today as well, when i replaced the manifold studs the second time i forgot to hook the wastegate actuator up and i took it for a drive. I was watching all my guages when i went WOT but i saw the boost spike to 2.4 BAR (35psi) and ever since then i have had the overheating issues. Is a single spike like that enough to lift the head? If so it explains a few different things.

I am really hoping that the head just got lifted and hasn't warped at all.

Yerp, I know that from personal experience... Stock VQ's don't like 50+ psi apparently. :P

A set of ARP or oversized bolts and a new MLS head gasket should have you up and running again, unless it leaned out severely...

My stock NEO is still holding up after countless days of abuse, just recently we decided to screw ARP head studs in one at a time so the engine stayed sealed, just for safety! Have had a boost spike similar when i blew the bottom gate line off and its still good :)

I have a spare Neo sitting in my shed, and 2 RB30 blocks. I'm going to put one Neo head on an unopened block and see how it goes. I'll also slowly rebuild the other 30 and just wait for the first one to go pop.

RB25/30 Neo, Hypergear SS2, External gate, 6Boost, Greddy FFP, X-Spurt 1000cc injectors, Adaptronic, E85.

That's the general plan :)

  • Like 1

Got the head skimmed in preparation for Cometic MLS head gasket, apparently the head was pretty much dead straight, good news! The machinist removed 4-5 thou so not enough to effect compression really. Will be running a standard size (1.3mm) head gasket.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
×
×
  • Create New...