Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

I have been using the AEM wideband for 6 years now, couldn´t be happier with it. Works great, no calibration needed and all the electronics fit in the 2" gauge :)

$T2eC16Z,!ykE9s7t)2UyBR-QHE0IEw~~60_12.J

I'm running the same unit in my car, and it follows exactly with the Dyno operators setup, gives the same readings, Not sure what he has though.

I personally run a NTK AFX which I bought on recommendation from reading through American forums with input from reputable big name workshops with tons of big hp cars. I was gonna buy something different for the other car but I think I'll just buy another NTK.

  • 2 years later...

I'm going to get a 20L drum, cut the top off, and then collect all the f**ked innovate LM2 hand controllers I have encountered (Including 2 of mine) pour fuel in, BURN ALL OF THE dream boats, and then with the molten plastic and slag, get f**k YOU TO HELL INNOVATE engraved on it, and post it to them.

Innovate can eat the biggest, fattest and longest of dicks.

The units last about 1-2 years. Then they go to shit. They f**k up in a shit way - the AFR reading rubber bands between 10 and 40 AFR and is absolutely f**ked. Powersupply on the car a little shit? No problems, just be an asshole and don't work at all innovate.

The analogue outputs don't even f**king work properly. they have 2 analogue outputs - one works, 0-5v the other doesn't work at all even though they boast the unit has two. False advertising.

Their customer service is ZERO

Their response to emails - ZERO
The quality of their units - ZERO
The parts availability - ZERO

f**k them.

I'm going to buy a techedge unit and never trust innovate again.

For all my CAN BUS needs on the Link G4+, I have been using hte Ecotrons ALM-CAN and ALM-CAN II. I worked with link to get templates made up so you can just load the file and it connects. I have permanently mounted one in my car over a year ago and still going good. I have installed about 5 other units, and 2 dual units without an issue. CAN is just so f**king easy. They are all 4.9 LSU too, and now with the ADV sensor.

Edited by The Mafia

My previous M800 had a controller built in for my 4.9.

Unfortunately the G4+ plug in has none so fitted a KMS eugo CAN a little xii but wtf http://kms.vankronenburg.nl/products/accessories-2/uego-can-controller/

How much was it? Always looking for good prices. And link having support for it is a bonus.

I paid 345 euro 1 1/2 years ago from this outfit. http://www.akracing-shop.de/KMS-Einspritzanlagen/KMS-CAN-Breitbandlambda-Set.html If you hunt around you may find it cheaper.

I looked at the Chinese Ecotrons one first but have been burnt before buying from there so went with this one and no complaints.

Went CAN to avoid voltage signal offsets etc.

I've been having luck with Ecotrons.

I'm with you too - I like CAN because the voltage offsets, bad earths etc give me the shits when they don't work properly.

For sure! nice to know what you are seeing is correct.

can recommend the 14 point 7.com spartan controllers using the LSU4.9 sensor. they're 75 USD for the controller.

basic, but have a 0-5v output and are cheap with automotive grade gear. haven't had an issue with mine. haven't used the sigma 2.1 controller but has a display and multiple inputs if you're into that kinda thing.

http://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2

Edited by burn4005

DO NOT USE THE INNOVATE MTX-L.

They cook sensors, then after they cook sensors the gauge will cook itself LOL

Also there are two versions of the LM2, the older is a piece of shit because it uses the old LSU 4.2 sensor not the newer LSU 4.9 found in the latest version.

I have the old croc of shit version which somehow just shows W27 most days and some days work lol.

The main reason I use Innovate is because of their serial out, which directly integrates with Adaptronic also they're the only ones on the market with a handheld wideband which I use to tune other people's cars (not so much these days, as I just tell people to install widebands before seeing me).

However, I am game enough to try the new LM2 that uses the LSU4.9 sensor.. hopefully no more wacky readings and W27 errors (also wtf is W27? it's not even in the manual)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...