Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This forum has been around for over 11 years. Before that, we were on SkylinesDownUnder. How come, in all that time, not one member has ever asked about suspension for a 32 GT-R?

I'm very happy with my Bilstein setups (race car and stagea), both were specifically setup for the purpose by a suspension engineer with good skyline experience. If you come across any of the Sydneykid revolved Bilsteins for road use grab them.

Having said that, the DMS that Matt posted above are the bargain of the century, so if you have $2k grab them now. They are an excellent setup, particularly for tarmac rally but would also be suitable either as is, or with minor revalving for road use. Also fully supported and rebuildable in Aus.

Unless you need to go cheap, stay away from the bottom of the market, they are almost always poor quality twin tube shocks and very hard springs. Yes you can lower your car and get hectic stance bro, but you will hurt your handling in most cases, not improve it.

  • Like 1

My old Ohlins/Eibach combo is much better for the street than the old TEINs I have. The Eibach springs are soft compared to the TEINs.

If you're after numbers, I would run around 4-5kg springs for the street max. Note that Nismo S-tune suspension have F:5.5 R:4.5 kg/mm springs.

Standard are around F:3 R:3.5 kg/mm from memory.

In saying that, if you're after cheap, HSD ones are pretty decent (from what I've heard and read). Local support and you can change springs (check out otomoto).

Yeah I had a look at the nismo-s tune, might get them. And if you think there worth it I'll give them a go!

Got Nismo S-Tune on my GT-R > very happy for street.

Got Bilstein with King springs on the EVO > very happy for street

Bilstiens pss9

So Bilstein now make PSS-9's for 32 GTR's? Not that they are any good anyway.

I'm very happy with my Bilstein setups (race car and stagea), both were specifically setup for the purpose by a suspension engineer with good skyline experience. If you come across any of the Sydneykid revolved Bilsteins for road use grab them.

Having said that, the DMS that Matt posted above are the bargain of the century, so if you have $2k grab them now. They are an excellent setup, particularly for tarmac rally but would also be suitable either as is, or with minor revalving for road use. Also fully supported and rebuildable in Aus.

Unless you need to go cheap, stay away from the bottom of the market, they are almost always poor quality twin tube shocks and very hard springs. Yes you can lower your car and get hectic stance bro, but you will hurt your handling in most cases, not improve it.

Duncan out of interest what are the differences between the Bilsteins from Gary and the ones you would normally buy? Other than the extra circlip rings.

But yes the fixed Bilsteins are good shocks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...