Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

18 hours ago, bcozican said:

I just remembered !

https://kiwicnc.com/en-au/products/nissan-r32-33-34-gtr-motorsport-uprights

little bit out on pricing though - rounding error

I sound like a performance workshop now 😆🤐

What's another $10k, you don't need to eat right?

Interestingly the guy from Brypar said don't worry about the rear uprights, apparently there's not much to gain there.

 

What is the advantage in the billet setups, vs the factory one?

I can't see how those will fix your issue of tearing subframe as they don't appear to change arm positions etc, which means you'd be changing the hubs but subframe is weak point right now.

30 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

What is the advantage in the billet setups, vs the factory one?

I can't see how those will fix your issue of tearing subframe as they don't appear to change arm positions etc, which means you'd be changing the hubs but subframe is weak point right now.

Think that part of the discussion developed from my hub bearing issues not in relation to subframe situation 

Double A arm and associated upright wld solve alot of issues but... yeahhhhh

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Currently working on increasing the effectiveness of the cooling system while simultaneously improving aero.

Previously with oem everything up the front it was hard to package everything and get it working efficiently but we did a pretty good job. Discussions where had and the move has been made to stack the intercooler/ oil cooler and rad together, completely seal it and vent it out the bonnet.

We stopped short of a full tubeframe front .. well just because... but everything got moved forward and tilted forward 

 

20231207_095311.thumb.jpg.fa1fcce9ca5f2230d53cf988c2ed87c1.jpg

 

The intercooler has been flipped back to traditional position, this has increased the cooler piping length but quite a bit but considering how this thing it tuned and manages boost,  response will not be affected 

 

723980939(1).thumb.jpg.8c7243e6118e10127dbd99103399dec0.jpg

 

Previously had a 25 row oil cooler and carbon shroud with 4" ducting going from the front bumper directed into the wheel well. This actually cooled very well but considering I was doing all this, I want to to the wick up  a bit more and aero wise it wasnt super effective having hot air going on the tyre, brakes and into a high pressure wheel well there is now a 50 row Setrab sitting sealed inbetween the intercooler and radiator.

The venting will obviously go out the bonnet reducing under bonnet high pressure area and taking away unwanted air going under the car.

The tyre warmer turbo/ front tub cutout has now been sealed off which we previous didnt get to

Keep on ticking away this bit is nearly finished will now pull it apart and make it a little bit more pretty also though the raw chromoly and ally go ok i think too

 

Screenshot_20231211_182243_Instagram.thumb.jpg.1ad628168c362d53e72fc31b6a4cf4de.jpg

 

 

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 8
2 hours ago, Duncan said:

Very complex piece of work there, will be good to see how it goes. 

Is the front bar just going to slide in on pegs and be retained somehow?

it better go good 😅🤞

The splitter is supported at the back on the front cross member and has a frame at the front that just slides into the slots in black either side of the intercooler - these are connected to the chassis rails

There is an air dam built onto the splitter

the bumper then just sits up against the air dam, seals against the intercooler and its pulled tight and dzus clipped on each side 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

I really like how you're still using the factory runners & a NEO head, in some way I regret not sticking with the OEM intake manifold.

Lost like 200~300rpm of downlow response moving to the shiny Plazmaman intake manifold. 

36 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I really like how you're still using the factory runners & a NEO head, in some way I regret not sticking with the OEM intake manifold.

Lost like 200~300rpm of downlow response moving to the shiny Plazmaman intake manifold. 

😁 it does the job nicely!

Theoretically you get higher top end

We can swap !? Think we could manage the 300 rpm although dont think I need more top end 😅

Edited by bcozican
5 minutes ago, bcozican said:

We can swap !? Think we could manage the 300 rpm although dont think I need more top end 😅

haha only if you pay for the fab work :D 

Will need a new cold side pipe, and most likely need to chop up my catch can to allow the e-throttle to clear with the pipe work

  • Haha 1

I’m going to give the Rajab Racing manifold a go when I do my build next year.  They told me they are developing an improved exhaust manifold similar to the stock one which I’m excited about

 

 

IMG_0171.jpeg

  • Like 2

Did you full weld those tubs in? I was advised to just stitch mine in to allow a small amount of flex and make it easier to remove/repair. 

Feels weird to not fully weld a piece of body panel though 0_0

2 hours ago, No Crust Racing said:

Did you full weld those tubs in? I was advised to just stitch mine in to allow a small amount of flex and make it easier to remove/repair. 

Feels weird to not fully weld a piece of body panel though 0_0

100% fully weld 

im not feb guy / car builder etc but I dont see why you wouldnt want as much rigidity as possible + when are you ever going to remove or repair ?

Edited by bcozican

The advice came from a good panel beater mate of mine. 

Too rigid causes cracking in seam sealer (if used) and paint over top. Makes any repairs harder to do. There's always flex and having them fully welded can move the forces elsewhere.

When removing the factory tubs, they were just spot welded in also. Re the towers, I'll only be stitching those at most, it wont be full seams. 

I think I'm comfortable going with his advice, was just asking what you did/how it's held up. 

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, bcozican said:

ive not had any cracking or anything of seam sealer/ welds or anything

my cage goes right through to the front strut towers so maybe my car is rigid already so doesnt effect as much 

Same here, no cracking but my cage also goes end to end.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Because build thread...

Pulled the fab apart, I got on the paint brush and tidied it all up. My bit is good from far but far from good but hey... racecar

Now to run some new oil and ps lines bang some bigger injectors in and send it

20231229_163112.thumb.jpg.d405102042e518ec1a6d6c4407a52e97.jpg

 

20231229_163042.thumb.jpg.a728face47e586e98034daba4c6cf863.jpg

 

20231229_154944.thumb.jpg.16f70451464a5c0950de2b5830ddcef5.jpg

 

20231229_154742.thumb.jpg.2addf6d2fb9e7963f9194338f0fc1654.jpg

20231226_104839.thumb.jpg.3f88f91cccbfe1e837a3094719b022a0.jpg

 

 

 

20231226_124516.jpg

Edited by bcozican
  • Like 5
  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I can recommend the partial AV system translation CD I ordered from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. Whilst it didn't address the date issue, it has conveniently translated on-screen menu items into English, and now allows the GPS-received time to be offset in hours rather than minutes, so I can display Eastern Australian time accurately ( and bump it by another hour when daylight savings starts ).
    • Yuh, if it's 45°C outside, my car is driving in it.
    • I'd be curious to hear more. Otherwise, have you driven a modern x-trail? I wonder how it compares. Here in Australia they are/were popular for rentals and fleet vehicles. I have been in some and my impression was they are bad. But, this may have been very different in the 2000s at a good trim level. Twenty years is plenty of time to make the model worse. I do very much agree with the 2 silver cars in the garage approach. But, not driving because it's too hot would not leave a lot of time in the year for many Australians. I don't think you need to worry too much unless the car has actual issues with overheating. 
    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
×
×
  • Create New...