Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is on 98 Pump
Here is the overlay of the car as it arrived.
If i hold the car at 3300rpm under load i can get 20psi.
This dyno run is seeing 22psi at 3950rpm and revving to 7000rpm in 5th gear

The Pic is an overlay of the run he did when I dropped it off (green) and today (red)

Not sure when the E85 will be done?

post-52098-0-28129200-1439435816_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Thats a f**ken epic result Pete!

You're gunna be in for a shock now when you drive it on Petrol let alone E85 lol!

Expect near the 500kw zone on E85 mate.. Congrats and well done to Jezzabelle and the boys sorting out the horrible mess you had! Cant wait to hear your thoughts when you drive it now!

Edited by Mick_o
  • Like 1

Thats a f**ken epic result Pete!

You're gunna be in for a shock now when you drive it on Petrol let alone E85 lol!

Expect near the 500kw zone on E85 mate.. Congrats and well done to Jezzabelle and the boys sorting out the horrible mess you had! Cant wait to hear your thoughts when you drive it now!

Yeah Mate, I knew it was a heap of shit the way it was, and I think this proves it :nyaanyaa:

I think I might start using the seat belt now :woot:

Don't forget your adult diapers as well as that seat belt!

Yeah i always knew it was POS when i saw the dynosheet let alone your impressions of how it drove!

You wont want to get out of it now mate!

Yeah Mate, I knew it was a heap of shit the way it was, and I think this proves it :nyaanyaa:

I think I might start using the seat belt now :woot:

So he changed the turbo rear? Good thinking

No, the PT6266 was on it all the time, it was not the PT6262 that was supposed to be ordered, this was the thing I said I would post at the end, but I waited for someone to see it on the Dyno Graph.

When I posted the pic of the 6Boost being installed I had an email from the old builder saying , oh you might notice the Turbo is a different model, I said yes it was noticed and he said that he told me about this when the build was being done, I said I think I would remember that, he said I might have been pissed, good call but that is something I would remember , well , I would think I would remember, hic hic

But all good as it is a better Turbo for the job on the 3.2 , but not for the 2.6

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...