Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
13 hours ago, Robzilla32 said:

Noice!

Love that fat ass enhancing offset on a 32

couldn't agree more, these are only 9.5" +22 as well... most people run a 9.5" with +12 +15 offset...

So the track car i bought has this fuel system...

Surge tank, Bosch 044 external and Walbro 255 internal...

Obviously drifting allows you to get away with murder but seeing as I do cams events (mainly hill-climbs) this won't be acceptable...

 

So as I see it I have a few options...

1-) build a 100% sealed box to go around it...

2-) remove surge tank and just fit the 044 in-tank...

3-) possibly fit a clear perspex fire wall from boot to cabin... 

4-) move system to spare wheel well and possibly cut a section out so surge tank can sit down and then just seal the cabin with some sheet metal...

all of these options I see having 'potential issues but am leaning towards option 4...

What would you do?

IMG_1268.JPG

IMG_1269.JPG

IMG_1270.JPG

I wouldn't rely on a single intake fuel pump on a S13 to be supplying fuel on the track. You'll get into surge issues.

Just leave the current setup and box it up like you've mentioned earlier.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/1/2019 at 3:49 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I wouldn't rely on a single intake fuel pump on a S13 to be supplying fuel on the track. You'll get into surge issues.

Just leave the current setup and box it up like you've mentioned earlier.

ended up doing this in the end

GTR was in a wedding last weekend, good to get out in some awesome weather.

Been having a strange issue where the car struggles to start, only when on a hill after a drive (note that even after a month without a start on E85 she fires up straight away). Once it's on a flat there's no dramas... Over half a tank of fuel too...

Checked that the pump was still sitting where it should and was all good...

A little baffled...

 

 

IMG_1345.JPG

IMG_1346.JPG

IMG_1348.JPG

IMG_1350.JPG

IMG_1355.JPG

Got to work on my r&r fixing up the body of the SIL80, not the happiest with the end result but given it was my first ever attempt at this sort of thing I shouldn't be too hard on myself, it's only temporary (have fiberglass front & rear wide guards I got with the car) and all up it cost less than $200... The colour isn't even close to matching ?, though the new colour i actually prefer ??

Bogging that rear quarter panel was a absolute pain...

IMG_1333.JPG

IMG_1334.JPG

IMG_1336.JPG

IMG_1337.JPG

IMG_1338.JPG

IMG_1340.JPG

IMG_1341.JPG

IMG_1343.JPG

IMG_1358.JPG

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

So I took the Sil80 to it's first event last weekend having only driven this thing a couple squirts up the road i knew it'd be pretty quick in a straight line but the corners were going to be an unknown... The wet weather of the hill-climb combined with the horrible 2 way/locked diff and relatively old Hankook RS3's gave me a few 'oh crap' moments but by the second day was finally getting a handle on her, dropped my times by 4-5 seconds by the end...

She's not looking pretty but she's a bit of fun nevertheless.

 

IMG_1443.JPG

IMG_1448.JPG

IMG_1471.PNG

IMG_1473.PNG

  • Like 1

Decided to see how I could go about making the TE37's from the GTR fit the standard guards of the S13... (Figured this was the quickest, cheapest and easiest way to go about getting traction)

Seeing I've got fiberglass over-fenders to go on anyway and the rear quarters especially on the passenger side weren't looking too pretty anyway I decided to get some different sized poles out and do a ghetto guard flare, actually turned out better than I expected...

This should aid in traction for the practice track day i'm doing in a couple of weeks and another hill-climb two days later all going well...

Then it will be time to take her apart to look at the diff and fitting the wider front and rear guards...

 

 

IMG_1468.JPG

 

IMG_1478.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...

Really loving having the GTR at a stage where i just put the corn juice in and drive, plenty still to do but just enjoying her for now which enables me to focus on the sil80...

These pics were taken at an old shed in a brewery back home...

Only downside to driving her quite a bit is having to wash her more often...

IMG_1623.JPG

IMG_E1624.JPG

Edited by mr_rbman
1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

@robbo_rb180 on the same pads now too!

Should be a good comparison between the two 180SXs :)

I did see that, my next event looks like being Easter so hopefully one track day before that to iron out any other bugs before towing 8+ hours.

9 minutes ago, mr_rbman said:

I did see that, my next event looks like being Easter so hopefully one track day before that to iron out any other bugs before towing 8+ hours.

I'll let you know how mine go as I should be doing a sprint or practice day in Feb. Will be interesting to see the difference between these and Project Mu.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

I'll let you know how mine go as I should be doing a sprint or practice day in Feb. Will be interesting to see the difference between these and Project Mu.

Cool, I'm coming from Intima S/R pads which i was impressed with so definitely stepping it up with the Eligs now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...