Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure if this is in the right section, mod please move if needed

Okay guys, time for a name and shame:

Sports Auto Group, 7-9 Parramatta Rd, Concord NSW 2137

Bought a car from this place not long ago, I was promised a spare key, log books, detail and a few more things. Nothing was in done when I picked up the car, I was told that they would do it for me, still waiting. Gave up on them to do most of it so I've done a lot of it myself. Came in for a warranty fix and they put cheap parts, cheap brakes (the brake dust is horrible and the brakes are spongy) , after market suspension parts.

Some of the simple things I asked for and never gone done are:

- Spare key (now I have to spend $400 out of pocket)
- Log book (still waiting on that one)
- Bonnet stand clip to be replaced (it was broken)
- Hand brake adjustment (wouldn't work at 8 clicks on a slight slope)
- Sticker on the back window to be removed (previous dealership sticker)
- Garmin dash pad to be removed (took almost two months for them to get it done)
- Detail, wash and touch up paint (car was filthy!)
- New windscreen wipers (still don't have them)
- Reverse camera to be installed (took 3 weeks, did't get the car till then)(I paid for the camera and install)
- New battery to be installed (it was dead, they used some cheap brand!)

They never answer they phone or call back, you'll call asking for the manager, be put on hold for over an hour (yes I've sat there for over an hour waiting) then he'll either pick up and say I'm busy call back later or just wont pick up so you'll have to call again, they won't give you his mobile number either, I've tried and they wont.

They're rude, I was told off by the manager and sworn at multiple times. I've been told to not call them even though I'm a paying customer. They where all happy and smiles when I was looking for the car, then once I bought it they didn't want to talk to me.

The manager Nick is horrible. Swears at customers, smokes in the showroom, doesn't answer his emails or phone calls. I dealt with a man named Luca which I bought the car from at the dealership and a week after he got "let go" I was waiting 3 weeks plus for them to speak to him because the manager didn't know anything about the car, you'd expect them to sort everything out before they get rid of someone.

All in all, hopeless, useless and just sneaky. Looking for quick money. Their "pre delivery check" was done by "one of the boys in the back" which don't even have their mechanical licence!

The car was given to me dirty with bird droppings, rubbish in the car, and dust everywhere. They gave me the car with a quarter tank of fuel and on the way out gave one of the employees $20 to fill it up.

I'm sure if I keep looking the car is going to have more than that wrong. It's not about the money, it's the principle of the matter.. I paid for a car to the spec which I asked for, in the end I received a sub-par product from unprofessional people.

Right now I'm still in the process of getting the log book, from where it stands now they've told me they have the log book but it's not filled out squint emoticonwhy the hell would I want a log book that's empty? They're taking it to Nissan to get it filled out again, which no doubt will take another 3 months.

Please let everyone know, DO NOT GO THERE. From what I can see on the reviews now it's always been like this. They are also looking to change their business name to "AUTOLINE SYDNEY" I'd recommend staying away from them.

Bottom line, the car itself has no problems, everything has been mended either by the dealer. a mechanic or myself. I'm finally getting a sense of joy out of the car even though the initial few months have been annoying as hell.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463152-name-and-shame-sports-auto-group/
Share on other sites

Don't worry they're currently being investigated for fraud due to winding back odometers and is more then likely the reason you don't have a log book.

Most of what you have said is very common knowledge within the import community and would be easily have been shown in a search

  • Like 2

Consider yourself lucky that at least the car seems to have turned out to be decent and giving you some joy. I guess there has been a lesson in all of this for you and you didn't get severely burnt in the learning process. Unfortunately most used car dealers are pretty dodgy, more so in the import world. In future when buying a used car buy on condition only and not on what some unscrupulous low life punk salesman is bull shitting you with. Best of luck and hope the car serves you well.

What car is it by the way?

port3s I've just bumped up the thread on...

SAU > Importing Cars > If You're Happy With Your Import...

Anyway SAU is a massive resource of great info.

I hope your car remains trouble free.

  • 1 month later...

Crap story, lucky it wasn't worse, I dislike dealerships at the best of times - all dodgy from my experience....

But why would you even pay for / accept delivery of a vehicle in such condition? if you're not happy with what you're given, don't take it.

But why would you even pay for / accept delivery of a vehicle in such condition? if you're not happy with what you're given, don't take it.

Some people get over-excited and tend to not think when they finally get something they've been waiting/paid for. Only when you take it home do you start to see the flaws.

Lesson learnt for OP it seems.

Edward "Don't Sue Me" Lee.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...