Jump to content
SAU Community

Bnr32 Gtr, saving a Datsun


Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, Stephen_rx7 said:

Lol i don't know about that, i trust corolla parts more than nissan parts personally, that and they look better, do the job better, last longer and are a third of the price, seems a no brainer to me?

If i could toyotaise the engine internals i would haha 

Its got a brand new n1 oil pump and a tomei baffle, dont know if that'll suffice for what I'm doing or not tho 

Billet oil pump gears would be nice, its a long nose crank engine so touch wood no issues there 

Sell it and buy another Toyota then?  Or ditch the AWD and throw a 2JZ in it.

I had an N1 oil pump.  I didn't limiter bash.  It died.  I'd flick it while you have the chance.  At the very least whack a set of billet gears in it for a bit of extra protection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have a 2jz jzx100 chaser so no need to push the gtr hard for power, just trying to make it as tough as possible without dropping 40k on an engine build, its a shame rbs arent spline drive from factory

there's no way of doing a 2jz swap without ruining the car so not an option 

what power did you break your n1 pump with?

 

Edited by Stephen_rx7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alrighty so i did abit of a test fit of the twin setup

20160215_160639_zpsvynmxgm9.jpg

20160215_170915_zpscymhm8n5.jpg

New banjo bolts in everything

20160215_164812_zpszxuqrcux.jpg

Interestingly the rb26 exhaust manifolds are slotted so are adjustable to a certain extent forward and back

20160215_164815_zpsdoqbbs2y.jpg

Side on shot of the twins 

20160215_192301_zpsl8qvbuqz.jpg

Thats prerty much it for the hotside till a few more bits arrive, still need some new oil drain hoses, the hose between the front and rear twin turbo pipes

Also on the cold side waiting on a thermostat and a few other bits and pieces 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so update time 

20160223_173016_zpslctpg0ze.jpg

New parts arrived

20160223_173841_zpshxgc58jv.jpg

Under plenum water/vac lines were abit sad so i bought a new one, im tossing up the idea of just buying every external water/oil/vaccum pipe brand new

20160223_175917_zpswyhswixv.jpg

I then pulled off the vaccum chamber and replaced the o rings

20160223_180041_zpsvbebzh3y.jpg

Most are for vaccum but the 3 small ones are for coolant 

20160223_173127_zpspqbjgaia.jpg

There were also some dodgy looking bolts for the clutch fan, so i fitted up brand new oem studs

20160223_171129_zps0xpqyblp.jpg

Also picked up some seatbelt stalks, both pairs of seats i bought were missing these, surprisingly hard to find these

20160224_172546_zpsss0ormlt.jpg

I also did abit of a parts run down to the gold coast 

Picked up a centre console, Powersteering pump, steering wheel, nismo front strut brace, a parcel shelf and a brand new oem n1 reo bar

20160224_200935_zpsofizft6q.jpg

Nismo brace is abit fruity but itll come up nice after a resto

20160224_194521_zps356hxj3d.jpg

N1 reo trial fit

20160223_183736_zps27idbims.jpg

Shitty picture but a brand new twin turbo badge 

20160224_192639_zps3tgwzs6x.jpg

20160224_192712_zpsvrbcbd05.jpg

20160224_192659_zps2z1z1dac.jpg

The bay prerty much stripped for painting 

Going to remove the front guards, 2 remaining brake lines and the brake/clutch boosters

Shes booked for the bay painting in 2/3weeks time so fingers crossed this goes to plan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bay is filthy, white doesn't help either, I've cleaned alot of the soot off with wax and grease remover, so its probably half as bad as it was lol.

The second steering wheel i bought because this happened 

20160225_204419_zpsjh0mfwqg.jpg

20160225_204612_zpsu7hrdc5o.jpg

So i needed a wheel to push it around with, once i bought the second gtr wheel i noticed there are differences between the two and with abit of research there is s1 and s2 wheels.

My gtr is a 1992 series 2, and unfortunately the wheel i had restored is a 89-91 series 1 wheel and it may not fit 

Which is abit sad so i may have to sell it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the heads up guys, hicas is removed so it should be all good yeh? 

Haha its a cheap chinese piece of crap wheel lol

Removing the wheel it snapped, a proper wheel should have strong spokes that tie into a metal ring for the outer circle of the wheel

This thing has some flimsy metal for the spokes and thats it 

received_975927809111032_zpsnotttejj.jpe

From the front the spokes are slightly thinner on the s1 wheel, the horn button is different and they aren't interchangeable between s1 and s2  

received_975928599110953_zps7fhs6epn.jpe

From the back the s1 wheel has a round plastic surround 

The s2 has the plastic extend out to the spokes with a screw on each spoke to secure, and you'll notice the holes in the rear plastic housing are offset in s1 and straight up and down on the s2

So now i need to chase down a s2 gtr horn button and get tge s2 wheel restored by the looks.

Edited by Stephen_rx7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i had to get the puller out to get the wheel off lol, with the fine spline they really hold on 

20160226_124010_zpsdtzhdozn.jpg

20160226_123938_zpsmbybtw4v.jpg

So the s1 wheel fits a s2 fine its just the wire for the horn is different, so i think ill run the s1 wheel, thinner spokes appeal to me more 

So i put in an order for all the little plastic pipe organizers in the bay, surprisingly alot of them 

20160225_165419_zpsjlbdfpuf.jpg

And I've basically taken every bracket/pipe/pulley i have and dropped off to my local powdercoater to have refinished 

So all mint brackets and stuff should set off the engine bay being freshly painted white

Edited by Stephen_rx7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

11 hours ago, Stephen_rx7 said:

i have a 2jz jzx100 chaser so no need to push the gtr hard for power, just trying to make it as tough as possible without dropping 40k on an engine build, its a shame rbs arent spline drive from factory

there's no way of doing a 2jz swap without ruining the car so not an option 

what power did you break your n1 pump with?

 

320kw. 

Engine bay is gunna look a million bucks after a paint. That bitch is filthy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm I might look at the gears then, better to do it now than do a motor 

Priced up Reimax gears, similar price to the spool gears, is any brand in particular better? 

Yeh the previous owner really made a mess in there sadly 

Edited by Stephen_rx7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alrighty then abit more progress 

20160229_143307_zpsaplns125.jpg

New thermostat turned up, slightly different design to the original one

20160229_145204_zpspaxal0cm.jpg

I was waiting on the thermostat to fit the coolant necks, so abit of toyota grey fipg and they are on 

20160229_152632_zps6xbcep81.jpg

Mounted up the front coolant pipe to the cam belt cover with some nice new stainless bolts 

20160229_145330_zpsqolg8esd.jpg

New oil drain hoses

20160229_152035_zpsknhiwypi.jpg

Fitted up nicely, also fitted the original lower heat shield, and all the support brackets with new bolts

20160229_144406_zpsxtmvnvrg.jpg

The remaining banjo bolts turned up, new vs old,  they don't age well

20160228_200846_zpsknb91sbl.jpg

Tried polishing the cas but because it's poor quality cast alloy it doesn't polish well, so black it is

20160228_200401_zpse2m0shbt.jpg

20160228_200354_zpss2wkxorr.jpg

Inner guard liners removed and cleaned the wheel arches with wax and grease remover

I also nearly forgot to add the pic of my front pipe 

received_977235842313562_zpsopwh5fbr.jpe

It was unknown what brand it was, turns out its a mines stainless steel front pipe and rrp is  $1050 new in japan :-o

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright a small update 

20160309_161149_zpsmxpmdprv.jpg

Parts back from powdercoating

20160309_161513_zpswhes864j.jpg

Picked up some new stainless steel cap screws for them so it looks brand new, i just need an original nismo strut brace decal which ill be ordering tonight 

20160309_161519_zpsxmvlhfn0.jpg

20160309_164224_zps8kxf82n3.jpg

20160309_164235_zpsxvoqxzzc.jpg

Pretty happy with how it came out, itll get put on the shelf till the rest of the bay is finished 

20160309_151318_zps7a54a0of.jpg

So I've removed the wheels and started looking at them, deciding what i should do with them, restore them or sell them, i think ill have a crack at restoring them 

Ive ordered some nicer style ssr centre caps but they require mods to the hub bore, also had some decals made up as replicas of the original, i got 2 sets done 1 with white writing and one with black.

I can't decide if i should colour match the centre's white or do them kh1 r32 gtr gunmetal or just gloss black 

Whats people's thoughts?

20160309_151313_zpsqocpkqxv.jpg

The centre of the wheel is pretty unusual where the centre cap goes

20160309_212454_zpshyuqixrc.jpg

Here are the decals i had made, abit hard to make out the white ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So as you guys have probably noticed I like my stuff pretty original so I ordered 2 of these 

2e276de6bf429d973225762b46da13f4_zpsw7zv

Available in silver or gold, I ordered 2 silver decals, so hopefully they turn up soon, I think it's the small touches that make the car stand out

The whole aim is to make it look period correct 90s jap style 

I'm thinking black or gunmetal centres on the SSRs

They are pretty rare wheels so I haven't found much of them in other colours 

I did manage to find a guy who refinished his set from silver to black in the UK

e17f53d4d6169aa2627fd83b6b920568_zpsehyn

Before resto 

14efcfef4585b341097b38265f0cfbd3_zpsfhug

After resto 

I also had thoughts of satin black but still not sure

The more input the better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:

Where did you order those old style nismo stickers???

I'll send you a pm man 

8 minutes ago, SiR_RB said:

Mad work so far !

watching this thread closely, love the attention to detail☺️

 

Thanks, appreciate the comments 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.
    • They absolutely are, but the thing is, if you're only exposed to these circuits for a while, what I normally think is good driving suddenly isn't so much. I was a pussy at the Nurburgring (GP) entering corners at 180kph - the difference in the balance of the car suddenly becomes so much more pronounced and I'm still a bit regarded at left-foot braking - something I now practice on my commute. So the (dream) plan with the E90 is to make it a 325i Cup car. Whether I get there or not is another matter. In my mind the simplicity of having the NA variant and cost made it a bit more appealing. Plus, like mentioned above, I'm actually too much of a pussy for big power. Of course I f**ked up by not researching enough on the N53 vs N52, the latter being more robust without the DI system.  Suspension-wise on the BMW, and I've been reading the technical requirements for the 325i cup, basically everything except struts has to be standard - bushes are free. I figure you get about 5-10mm adjustment with the rear camber bolts which should translate to 0.5- 1.5 degrees of adjustment. So with coilovers, lowered at 30/40mm I expect I can dial out some of the camber from a drop and attain -1.5 to -2. If necessary, I could get the same effect as the M3 arms with some offset bushes. There is a limitation on ARB width to qualify, although I absolutely want to get either M3 ARBs (can't say sway incase I upset GTSBoy) or the H&R ones - both of these are the cheapest options. Like mentioned, M3 arms are on the way and I should have them fitted within the next week. How are the BC Racing coilovers btw? Reviews are mixed but I think for me they would be fine; a friend of mine uses them on his R34 for track driving and has nothing bad to say. I'm looking at these or the ST coilovers (German brand, new to me) as prescriped the in Cup spec sheet. They're both similarly priced and offer camber adjustment. It's fine but it really upsets my OCD. I've got a couple of options for dialing out the rear camber and keeping my ill-fitting wheels: raise the rear a little bit, say 5mm, that should permit -2.5 camber or drop the front to restore that slight bias of more negative camber up front (not optimal with the roads here). The next alignment won't be until at least next year and I really need to rebuild the rear subframe. For now, I'm not using it at all on the streets except occasional blasts through the German countryside. I was covering about 10k kms p/year in Japan, I expect this to now be about 3-4k. You could say buy better sized wheels, and yes, I should have. But the wheels came from the Z and price of good wheels is just insane now. Again, a couple of options: get a new set (I want 17" RPF1s) or buy two used 9.5J TEs, both are about the same price excluding shipping. 
    • by rotating the motor i mean to dismount the plate on the motor and mount it different 
    • Sorry I meant to say, Is that $3,500 landed or is that just the sticker price in Japan? 
    • Same (except for the R32 bit), my son is saving for his first car which he hopes will be a Kouki V37 GT with the twin turbo 3.0L V6.... kids these days! My first car was a Renault 16 haha 😄 Sorry for the thread hijack
×
×
  • Create New...