Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTR - Aftermarket Radiators and Factory Shorud

Hi All, 

 

Have been looking around and it seems some of those with aftermarket radiators have hacked up/no shrouds and others have them intact. Who here has a aftermarket rad with a factory shroud that fits?

Koyo radiator, factory fan and shroud. No touch. I also installed new radiator bushings and pulled them all the way forward on install. Worn bushings could have caused mine to hit. Another option would be to machine some offest bushings pulling the radiator further forward


14 minutes ago, bcozican said:

sometimes that chopping etc of the shroud/ rad from the fan comes from worn / broken engine mounts when the car brakes etc the engine can move forward hence closing the gap / changing the alignment of everything... been there !

Engine mounts maybe.  In my case and at least a couple of others I've seen it's simply the radiator getting sucked back towards the engine by the engine fan.  It doesn't seem to happen with stock radiators, so maybe they are just too thin (to take up the room) and too thin (to put up enough resistance to airflow) to move far enough against the rad mounts.

 

I just jammed some more rubber into my upper mounts (on the back side) to pre-load them and prevent it moving back.....well, after it has already sliced a line through my shroud!

nope, don't like their welds :)

but they're massive up your way, Ryan Tuerck uses them... if you're bored... go compare the welds on a Plazmaman FMIC and a Mishimoto :)

I've got a cefiro, so not a gtr. But, 

 

I run a 52mm rad with the stock shroud and fan. Had a few drama's with the fan hitting the shroud.

I machined some new lower bushes out of nylon, and made new brackets for the top with no bush.

 

Haven't had a issue since. Car is used for drifting so gets a bit of a thrashing. Tried twin thermo's early on, and they were shit.

Granted, they weren't expensive ones, but stock fan and shroud is simple, and it works.

 

Oh and don't underestimate how much the stock fans flex, I had a Z32 fan (greater offset, but had one lying around) on after the thermo's shat themselves , had a decent 15mm gap fan to rad and it still grabbed the radiator at high rpm.

What is the thickness of factory radiator?  Mishimoto is only 32mm so it should have fewer clearance issues, and 10% cheaper than Koyo here.  They also have great lifetime warranty that even covers collision.

1 hour ago, Dan_J said:

well i personally dont, but hey each to there own....

only if done right.. and 9/10 times it is done wrong...

Most owners just hard wire their fans OR use shitty fan controllers that turn off and on constantly like a strobe light.. followed by those who just hook it up to their OEM overheat fan relay/thermoswitch.

You need a proper fan controller either a standalone unit OR through your car's aftermarket ECU to set OFF and ON points followed by some form of hysteresis - only then would that be consider an appropriate installation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
×
×
  • Create New...