Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Butters said:

Don't think the g35-1050 will get there ?   

I am pretty close(720rear) on 26psi with scope for more boost and rpm.  

Very happy with the repsonse on a 2.6 with vcam, on a 3.2 it would be amazing. 

800-850 is a pretty big step up from where you are, imho you'd need to go up an exhaust housing size (or two) to support the extra power - especially on a 600cc larger donk.   That's going to take a lot of steam out of the response, and while it's not going to be rubbish still... it imho will shift it outside of EFR league (well, further outside of).    So I wasn't saying it's rubbish or not a valid option, just when we're talking about an EFR8474 then imho it's definitely a step backwards.   That's because EVERYTHING is a step backwards, nothing against the G35.

 

 

Edited by Lithium
1 minute ago, Lithium said:

800-850 is a pretty big step up from where you are, imho you'd need to go up an exhaust housing size (or two) to support the extra power - especially on a 600cc larger donk.   That's going to take a lot of steam out of the response,

Agree on a bigger motor a bigger rear would be the go.     I do wish I had a built bottom end to throw the extra 10psi at it to see what it would do. 

 

3 minutes ago, Lithium said:

That's because EVERYTHING is a step backwards, nothing against the G35.

It's very tempting to test this out. You can get them in a vband flange turbine side which would make it near direct swap. 

1 minute ago, Butters said:

It's very tempting to test this out. You can get them in a vband flange turbine side which would make it near direct swap. 

It wouldn't really be a valid test, my statements assume someone is running a native twin scroll housing.   Any observations I (and pretty much anyone else here) offer relating to EFRs assume twin scroll housings.  Any data for them and suggestions relating to them apply to the housings they come with.   

For it to be realistic it'd have to be a typical G35 setup and typical EFR setup, matched appropriately for the car they're going to be running on.

58 minutes ago, Butters said:

Agree on a bigger motor a bigger rear would be the go.     I do wish I had a built bottom end to throw the extra 10psi at it to see what it would do. 

 

It's very tempting to test this out. You can get them in a vband flange turbine side which would make it near direct swap. 

this is what I'll be doing - G35 - 1050 with 1.01 v band rear with rb27 and 35 psi would think be around mid/high 800 hubs still think

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Something else to consider with all the 9180 vs 8474 talk is that the 80mm turbine is the biggest culprit for flying out the back of the exhaust. The 74mm wheel is certainly the more "proven reliable" option. Even whilst over speeding.... But obviously if kept happy they are proven to be of OEM reliability. 

Just an update. I have the 8474 on the engine now (8374 previously)

It's about 100-200rpm laggier and makes an absolute sh$t tonne more power up top. The 8374 topped out at 650rwhp at 30psi. 

This 8474 is just f$c%ing dumb. At 26psi, it's making well and truly over 750rwhp and just keeps going. It doesn't fall over. 

RB28 with Vcam (264/272), 6boost manifold, 3.5inch exhaust, E85, Emtron KV8 etc etc 

  • Like 2
1 hour ago, The Mafia said:

Just an update. I have the 8474 on the engine now (8374 previously)

It's about 100-200rpm laggier and makes an absolute sh$t tonne more power up top. The 8374 topped out at 650rwhp at 30psi. 

This 8474 is just f$c%ing dumb. At 26psi, it's making well and truly over 750rwhp and just keeps going. It doesn't fall over. 

RB28 with Vcam (264/272), 6boost manifold, 3.5inch exhaust, E85, Emtron KV8 etc etc 

Well that's exciting news!  Can't wait to finally test mine out at some point!

Do you have a dyno chart?  Love to see her curves. 😍

16 hours ago, burn4005 said:

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade.

only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

I also pondered the same when ordering, but couldnt be bothered, so went iron. Mines a 9180, and its not really heavy either. 

21 hours ago, burn4005 said:

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade.

only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

GCG said there is about 5kgs difference, and no difference in strength. I went the iron core and haven't had any issues. Wasn't heavy either. Iron would handle heat better though I would say?

21 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Well that's exciting news!  Can't wait to finally test mine out at some point!

Do you have a dyno chart?  Love to see her curves. 😍

I don't unfortunately, I'm just looking at the calculated HP / torque in the Emtron which is about 5-10hp within the dyno readings. 

Plus, I have ID1300cc injectors running at 4bar so about ~1600cc and they were hitting 95% duty on E85. That is a dead giveaway to output. 

The 8374 at 30psi was only at 82% duty.

  • Like 2
11 minutes ago, The Mafia said:

I don't unfortunately, I'm just looking at the calculated HP / torque in the Emtron which is about 5-10hp within the dyno readings. 

Plus, I have ID1300cc injectors running at 4bar so about ~1600cc and they were hitting 95% duty on E85. That is a dead giveaway to output. 

The 8374 at 30psi was only at 82% duty.

A screen shot of boost / rpm log showing where target boost is hit would probably be pretty meaningful, I've already posted dyno plots of these things pushing 800+hp to the hubs on a 3litre - the flow potential of them shouldn't really be in question at this stage, but how it comes on with an RB28 would be pretty good data to see.   There is always talk about how good these come up between gears etc, but not that much data for people and I can fully see why people develop an attitude that the enthusiasm for these turbos are just fanboism, as opposed to earned respect for being that good.

  • Like 1
On 01/11/2022 at 3:31 PM, burn4005 said:

goddamit. now I've got to upgrade.

only question is Iron or Aluminium CHRA

Aluminium. It weighs 5kg without a turbine housing. Also Aluminium dissipates heat quicker so probably better on bearings etc. Also it won't rust and look old and Daggy like an iron core will eventually 

On 01/11/2022 at 7:21 PM, Shyboy said:

That sounds exciting👍Any graph ? I should get mine back in few weeks 

About time lol! How long ago was your car at my shop? 😆

Look forward to seeing it! 

I also wanna hear my exhaust! 😎

I would never have bought or recommended an EFR9280 for this kind of power level (helped by the fact I've seen less impressive results from them), there is not much info on exactly how hard this one is being pushed, but I still feel like this result is worth knowing about if you hadn't already given GameOn aren't unheard of or anything.

EFR9280 on a VVTi 2JZGTE making 1130hp @ hubs with respectable spool is a solid result no matter how you cut it

https://fb.watch/gA5azNc8fg/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...