Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Attended Wilby Motorsport Park for Round 4 of our series, round 5 is also there in 6wks or so.

It's a very short course with laps ranging from 32-40sec. It's a bit agricultural, but the vibe is fairly relaxed. 

I went on my old 235 RS-Rs to see if I could have a class win on those and save the AR1s. I forgot to turn the camera on which is shame as I almost died a number of times in that first session, to be fair it was cold but my god the lack of grip was hilarious - did a 37.7 or so and was .7sec behind the class leader and not overly confident I would catch him - swapped back to the AR1s after the first session.

Ran a 36 flat in S2 then squeezed a few more tenths out of it to run 35.7 in S3 which was good enough fro a class win and a top 10 outright finish. Sat out S4 as the 2nd place car had mechanical issues after running a mid 36 and 3rd was too far away to catch me - was nice to pack up and be home earlier. 

Tried a new breather setup which looks like a hot mess due to piping length etc, but is finally keeping oil in the car with only minimal oil accumulating on the lip above the firewall from the breather. 

It's now 2 stage with rockers/balance pipe all Tee'd and into 1 port on a baffled can with sump drain, outlet from that can feeds another baffled can with an filter to Atmo.  

I now have the rev limit warning set 6700 rpm as torque starts falling away then anyway and it limits how much oil is being pumped to the head. Oil surge is still evident on quick direction changes, but I'm guessing it's always had it.

If I manage to win the remaining 3 rounds I'lk have had 10 straight wins in my class, which will be a fitting send off for the CA, if it doesn't die first. 

Bought a balancer for the SR and have been looking at clutches and manifolds - went ATI in the end. Was told my shipment of the main group of parts (pistons, rods, head gear, studs etc etc) is just about ready to ship and my head studs were just picked up from Mazworks - they're only ARP, but apparently they have a custom length that bottoms out properly that people swear by so I grabbed those. 


Started test fitting the passenger seat, just need a few locking nuts etc. 

As always, here's a hotlap in 1080p and 60fps including a little B roll footage. 
 

 

20180605_203452.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

I'm still trying to get some objective reviews.

It's difficult as nobody locally specialises in SR20 and that makes it hard to walk into a workshop and get a feel for the place.

I'm also keeping in mind I'd always wanted to do it myself, with assistance from a meticulous mate of mine who builds motors as part of his work (albeit diesel), but the cost of getting it wrong adds up quickly.

I realise there's rarely, if ever, a warranty on a built motor though.

All very good points. If your buddy knows what he's doing and sticks to the recommended clearances, shouldn't really be an issue but i see where you're coming from and for the sake of an extra K or 2, may be better to just pay up.

If you decide to use a workshop, ideally you would want one with ample sr20 experience. Not sure if you have a local sr expert up there. There's a couple of shops here in Melbourne that pretty much specialize in them.

Rob from Sabbadin automotive and Donny from forced motorworx both come to mind as SR gurus and have built that many they could probably do it with their eyes closed.
They're the sort of guys id be considering if it was my engine. Food for thought, im sure you'll work it out by the time the rest of the parts turn up.

Bit more than 1-2k really given some of the quotes I've had (though they include assembling/clearancing the head, all machine work etc). 

The only person who's jumped out at me so far as having genuine SR20 Circuit experience (rather than street/drag focused) is DM Motorsport, the one who owns that SuperGT S15. He claims to have acquired the testing data for SR20 race engines with the car and a few other insider secrets. He has shared a few things so far that line up well with some of my own research into weaknesses/how to avoid etc but he is far from cheap and he's in Sydney. He's given me a reference, but as with any business, I'm sure that reference will only have good things to say. 

Sump is here. Got the aeroflow one, plenty of capacity, trap doors etc. 

Image result for aero flow SR20 sump

  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of stuffing around with harness lengths and the inner eye bolt position on the inner mount but got there in the end.

The side holes are smaller on this seat and don't allow the buckle to fit through the hole nicely which is an issue as the lower strap portion is too long and sits too close to the eye bolt to be tightened safely on the inner.

I ended up having to mount the eye bolt further forward and on the seat mount itself rather than the rail. It seams to snug up nicely but we'll see how it goes at the track.

Sits a bit higher than I'd like but I sit high in a seat compared to mates, should be fine for the missus, will test later.

Total weight is approx 13kg vs say 20-22kg or so that the Falcon's Autobarn buckets are.




20180623_131913.jpg20180623_155841.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Chipped away at the donor, think I found what happened to it lol

Bores all look good, that is a deposit on the bad cylinder, not pitting etc. 

Head is in very good nick and will be sold off. 

Got an awesome new work light for my birthday, thing is ridiculously versatile, cant wait to use it.

Main shipment of bulk parts is on the way from NZ!

 

20180715_140119.jpg

20180715_142437.jpg

20180715_142634.jpg

20180715_145619.jpg

20180718_065948.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Did half a track day yesterday, packed up early as I had set a decent time in first session and spent the second mostly off the track.

Really struggling to get the brakes up to temp and working, even with the ducts covered.

Taking me 2-3 laps (35-37s laps so only short track) to get them warm.

Only have a small tyre window by that stage as they are going off sooner as they age.

Attacked a witches hat and had to bend the winglet flat. I was going to lose those in the V3 splitter anyway.

We found out the the trailer I borrow had damaged stub axle..

Thankfully that happened at home 0_0

Class win, no PB.

20180805_122948.jpg20180804_153543.jpg20180804_162308.jpg

I will get this setup through to the end of this season then go from there as i may end up with 5 stud/different brakes yet.

I have new project mu rotors and pads on the shelf, in 4 stud, so may use those yet. 

You got tyre hookups yet? 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...