Jump to content
SAU Community

S13 Sprint/Time Attack Style Build


No Crust Racing

Recommended Posts

Change to the V band.  Effort is worthwhile.

30mm flares might get you out of trouble for now but wider set would have given you room for future changes.  You're going to need to use tin snips on the guards anyway, and good clearance helps when the fronts move up/down and lock to lock.  Hint - flares to suit 240Z are remarkably close to what's required on these things.

All steps forward though, looking good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Yep, little flares. Didn't want big ones so had to wait for OS shipping to find some smaller ones. 

These:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-JDM-Fender-Flares-Wheel-Arch-1-2inch-30mm-4pcs-Wide-set-ABS-Plastic/282457560738?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

As you can see from the pics on the car, they are not huge. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

So as with everything, when it comes time to actually do the job, you run into hassles. 

Flares were no different so they are not on the car just yet, but progress has been made and hopefully they will be fitted this weekend.

On the back of the flare, you have a right angle mounting surface behind the recessed sections. These will work really well on guards that are very flat, silvia guards, especially the front are very much not flat/right angles to the ground. 

In trimming these back to the point where you can get the flare to sit nicely on each guard you basically take that mounting surface out completely so we'll be using Sikaflex as we did with body kit and as seen on most modern car mouldings. Have also marked the guards with the panel beater so we know where they'll get trimmed. 

Spoke to Nistune and looked at doco in how they wire in flex fuel capability and could see that with a simple switch, I could give the ECU the 5V input it wants and have dual map capability. The CA ECU has a 5V point you can use that's left over from the removal of bits when the Nistune goes in. I managed to remove the existing wire shielding and solder in some new ones, tested OK.

Have been wiring in some new switches and lights for some other things and have left a littler space on the panel for another switch for a future project. 

Next track day is the 26th, I'm hoping to have the flares on so I can use the new tyres, if not can just run the old rubber again as there's still tread on those. 


 

20171112_152427.jpg

20171111_182658.jpg

20171111_182651.jpg

20171111_182357.jpg

20171112_144504.jpg

20171112_161830.jpg

20171112_201323 - Copy.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Painful job, but flares and wheels are on, and fouling shit of course!

For anyone that's done it, you know how fun it is working with Sikaflex. 

Guards all cut, fronts flared up under the plastic flare, rears cut higher and sealed up. 

Inner seam on chassis rail cut back and sealed up and I'm now working through trying to cut/tuck as much of the guard liner as possible to keep some element of protection for the looms, oil cooler, BOV etc. 

Also had some scrap metal and some race tape so made a quality radiator air guide, Tucks into the grill nicely. 

 

 

20171119_165701.jpg

20171119_165644.jpg

20171119_165624.jpg

20171119_165522.jpg

20171117_222815.jpg

20171117_224537.jpg

20171117_225040.jpg

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, a grinder, sledgehammer, some self tappers, and cable ties later I have done all I think I can for now in terms of guard clearance. 

Folded the seam down at the back of the guard and clearanced the front tub section up. Kept as much of the liner in where it was protecting the loom. 

Just need to block up the moroso crankcase evac kit valve to stop that exhaust leak and we're good for Sunday. Car is looking Ricetastic now with 40mm more track. 

Forum has disabled media sharing? 

 

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Footage from yesterday is useless as I accidentally aimed the GoPro at the revision mirror so that takes up most of the frame, as does my serious expression. Quality is good though so I'm happy with the new camera setup. Wouldn't mind a better GPS as there's some syncing issues with my older 5hz model. 

Anyway, shaved off 2 tenths from the PB and had a class win, won a shirt. That's 3 from 3. 

Was a very mixed day with rain all over the place as some interesting groupings (I almost hit 1 guy a few times as he just wasn't watching his mirrors). 

First session was wet and the car misfired like a bitch, almost rear ended someone and drove off track to avoid, good times. Coulnd't find the cause of the misfire, but removed and reseated all connections, checked all hoses etc and it just went away 0_0

Second session was dry and clear track so that was the PB. 3rd session I almost hit people again and never got a clean lap then the coolant line to the turbo broke away from the fitting and I couldn't be assed trying to fix it given I was confident the time would be enough and the rain kept coming and going. 

Was expecting more from the AR1s, they are wider and softer than the RS-R. I can see in my footage there's time to be had though so I'm confident I'll go faster on them next year, but by that stage I'll have replaced this turbo so it'll be impossible to tell. 

I think I ran them too low, about 34psi hot. They seem to want higher pressures but I didn't get a chance to test, also firmer damper settings than I normally run. 

Was yet another great day out and a good result for the little CA that can :)

 

20171126_204908.jpg

20171126_205020.jpg

20171126_204724.jpg

20171126_204753.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...