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It's got a fully optioned M600 at the moment but I've just ordered an M150 and dev license for it.

One of the reasons for going to M150 is more inputs, I'm out of space and that's with the dash upgraded for extra I/O. I could probably drop a few of the less critical inputs off and only connect them for testing but the added flexibility of the development license for M150 is certainly worth a few extra dollars.

My I/O list is similar to yours but I don't run N02, it's a rally car.

On 6/29/2020 at 12:27 PM, Komdotkom said:

Mines just a single TB on a Plazmaman intake, not the ITB setup so it's nothing fancy. This is from last year.

JAA90yA.jpg

Did you ever run your setup with the std manifold before going Plazmaman?

Wish I still had my subsription to RB20 wrecker life....being stuck, drunk in hotels for years with nothing to do but think up dumb shit and waste money ruined my car.  At least my motor externally still looks like an RB20 ;)

LOL, part of the reason why I went back to std inlet manifold after selling my Plazmaman.

21 hours ago, Roy said:

Did you ever run your setup with the std manifold before going Plazmaman?

Wish I still had my subsription to RB20 wrecker life....being stuck, drunk in hotels for years with nothing to do but think up dumb shit and waste money ruined my car.  At least my motor externally still looks like an RB20 ;)

LOL, part of the reason why I went back to std inlet manifold after selling my Plazmaman.

Changed back to OEM for appearance, or performance? Not sure what ruined your car

LOL, I ruined my car...too modified and just now too broke to thrash :)

I changed back to std for what I thought was performance. Also so I could tell people its a std RB20 running -10s :)

For my car which was pretty sorted for the std manifold going Plazman at 250-260rwkws hurt torque and mid range but did open up top end over 7,000rpm as it just kept pulling as std fell over. So when I pulled the TD06-20G off and went T67-25G I went back to std RB20 inlet and throttle body

I am now running a very different setup on the std RB20 inlet with 2.5L and twin 2860-5s.  The thing is surprisingly punchy for a non VCT 2.5L with twin -5s. Its actually way better power and response vs the T67-25G 10cm   I now wonder now it has more airflow and a good 70-100rwkws more power whether going back to a Plazmaman would be a good upgrade. On my RB20 it didn't really work as I'd hoped. 

  • Like 2

I would like to think after this I can wave the flag for RB20 chief propaganda minister Roy. I spent many a night reading through your threads on here and watching your YouTube videos haha.

Also I just purchased some 264 cams and upgraded valve springs to throw in. I think I can afford to go to a bigger cam now that I am going to be running N2O. Will eliminate the lag and let me spin it to over 8k hopefully.

With an ATI balancer, 36-2 crank trigger and MoTeC M130 that should have my bases covered to be able to run as much RPM as possible. I will be limited by cams and EMAP if I was to guess. I want to spin this thing as far as possible (just for the sounds really haha) thinking 8k+ will stop if the graph starts to roll over hard.

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On 01/07/2020 at 9:28 AM, Roy said:

Did you ever run your setup with the std manifold before going Plazmaman?

Wish I still had my subsription to RB20 wrecker life....being stuck, drunk in hotels for years with nothing to do but think up dumb shit and waste money ruined my car.  At least my motor externally still looks like an RB20 ;)

LOL, part of the reason why I went back to std inlet manifold after selling my Plazmaman.

The car has run with the standard manifold but return flow intercoolers are average at best and aesthetically I cannot cope with the tortuous path that intercooler pipes must follow to use the standard manifold. This Plazmaman unit makes use of the standard lower runners so does not reduce the overall intake length too dramatically and allows me to use a Plazmaman GTR intercooler and neat pipe work. The engine is built to produce maximum torque at low rpm (from an RB20 LOL) so has high static compression and custom made split duration Kelford cams to promote better swirl in the chamber before it reaches positive manifold pressure.

Hypergear made me a very custom turbo so that I still comply with my class rules but it should make 300rwkw without too much problem, back on the dyno in August after a few more changes. Previous best with this engine combo (but 21U highflow) was 265kw but boost control was non existent because the internal gate was too small so we didn't run it past 5500rpm. 

  • Like 1

Yeh. When I ran a Plazmaman inlet on my RB20 on E85 and TD06 I made a decent enough 306rwkws. I note your inlet pipe goes where the battery once was which is easier than in the std GTR position like I ran mine...was but ache piping it to that position. I've done a few 120 deg pipe setups for std plenum and much a muchness to me these days. 

Anything in particular? Mine's built to specific regulations that probably don't cross over much with drifting, but I'm happy to send you some engine bay pics if you like?

It's all pretty standard stuff really, the  only thing that's a bit different to the usual is the cooling system which uses a custom made cross flow twin pass radiator and swirl pot. 

Not sure if it has been mentioned as an option yet, but I'm running a 10cm twin scroll HY35W and I make 273rwkw @ 20psi and start spooling around 3100rpm. It's probably actually more as my clutch fan died on the dyno and we were letting it cool between pulls. It's still pulling at 7800rpm. Another plus is these turbos new from Holset go for about 600$CDN. 

Cheers. 

I have an RB20E single cam engine that I fit with twin scroll turbo set up using Holset HX35/HX30  hybrid turbo, 12 cm t3 twin scroll turbine housing, small HX35 50 mm inducer compressor, HX30 52 mm exducer turbine and Turbosmart Hypergate 45 wastegate. I lost my dyno print out but from memory it made around 220 rwhp on 1 bar of boost and around 310 rwhp on 1.5 bar of boost (this for the dyno pulls only), fuel is 95 octane pump gas. On  the street, 3rd gear starting from 2500 rpm cruise then go WOT boost starts around 2800 rpm. Dyno type used is a Dynomite dyno.

On 08/07/2020 at 5:26 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

Just some pics in general and a run down of your setup. What cams/turbo/boost are you running and power you making? ?

Tried to PM you, but you can't receive messages.

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