Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 24/3/2022 at 6:54 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

If doing a DBW with ecu/loom can now do it on factory plenum
https://www.iee.nz/product-page/rb26-drive-by-wire-system

Yes, I currently have a modified factory plenum with single throttle DBW 

 

07361A0E-67C3-4618-84B0-16254CCD89D1.jpeg

On 24/03/2022 at 7:03 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

Yes, I currently have a modified factory plenum with single throttle DBW 

Then just keep the factory plenum :) 

No need to burn more money on a fancy Plazmaman plenum for little gain (if any). It does look good though, billet dis dat albeit for a Rb25 shit box.

On 25/3/2022 at 12:14 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Then just keep the factory plenum :) 

No need to burn more money on a fancy Plazmaman plenum for little gain (if any). It does look good though, billet dis dat albeit for a Rb25 shit box.

Yep, my mechanic said, little to no gain in performance, all for aesthetics, problem is, with as far as I’m now going with the car, should I skimp out on this??? 
my personal opinion is, I love the Nismo plenum, but to buy one and cut it up seems…questionable. 

If you're going to change it, at least go a Plazmaman or CPC not a Nismo one. Nismo "performance" parts don't really perform if you know what I mean.

(This is my personal opinion 🙂)

On 25/3/2022 at 10:30 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you're going to change it, at least go a Plazmaman or CPC not a Nismo one. Nismo "performance" parts don't really perform if you know what I mean.

(This is my personal opinion 🙂)

maybe a little…😆

The Nismo plenum only makes sense if you want a few key design elements like the longest intake runners you can fit in a factory ITB setup and the different intake runner designs to avoid leaning out cylinder 6 to some extent. A single plenum design like the Nismo as far as I can tell will never actually work perfectly at equalizing airflow between cylinders. Dollar for dollar it is a horrible upgrade IMO but I have weird priorities. HKS is working on a dual plenum design that may be more what you're looking for and will be single DBW throttle body.

On 25/03/2022 at 10:47 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

maybe a little…😆

He's still using the factory ITB, you're planning on chopping it to fit a single DBW TB which will affect the way air flows and distributes across the runners at partial throttle.

On 26/3/2022 at 11:13 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

He's still using the factory ITB, you're planning on chopping it to fit a single DBW TB which will affect the way air flows and distributes across the runners at partial throttle.

Something I haven’t considered, I am leaning towards getting the Plazmaman plenum. 

  • Like 1
On 24/03/2022 at 6:28 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

In my quest to catch up to R32 25T, things are moving forward, more parts back from cerakote. Hoping to order the gearbox next week. 

All your cerakoted parts look great and it seems to suit a wide range of parts. I was thinking of having front and rear hoon bars, miscellaneous brackets, Apexi pod elbows, battery retainer bar and the ugly retainer that the throttle cable passes through done.

Do you think anything on that list isn’t suitable? I googled this for at least 60 seconds but most of the articles were about how it would improve the longevity of the assault rifle that I don't own.

  • Haha 1
On 26/3/2022 at 4:53 PM, Robzilla32 said:

All your cerakoted parts look great and it seems to suit a wide range of parts. I was thinking of having front and rear hoon bars, miscellaneous brackets, Apexi pod elbows, battery retainer bar and the ugly retainer that the throttle cable passes through done.

Do you think anything on that list isn’t suitable? I googled this for at least 60 seconds but most of the articles were about how it would improve the longevity of the assault rifle that I don't own.

That is all suitable, They can even do plastic parts, he showed me a fuse box cover from a VL he did, looked brand new. I’ve given him a few plastic parts, I’ll post them when I get them back. 

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...

More parts ordered, more parts coming in, Nismo restoration! Pfft, got nothing on me. Lmao 

Also got brand new headlights. 

Had the engine bay ceramic coated by my Detailer while it’s bare, came up a treat. 

BCB8A031-BBAE-49E7-8571-CB36A1A782AB.jpeg

E2FC344B-1982-4565-B09E-8E9CA1CE52FC.jpeg

A594FC13-0FA6-460A-A5E5-43EF39F1AAD1.jpeg

9555371C-522D-48D7-8444-71F51C77FA6A.jpeg

  • Like 2
On 7/4/2022 at 8:35 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Full resto!

That engine bay is going to look amazing once all back together.  Are you doing anything funky like wire tucking, brake line redirection or anything else?

I’m getting Pro wire to do a custom engine loom to incorporate all the extra sensors, DBW etc, still haven’t decided weather I’ll delete the fuse box and run everything off a PDM. I want to change ECU to the Motec M150, just got to talk to a couple of people to see what my options are. 
I’m moving away from the factory plenum and will be running the Plazmaman. I’ve finally decided on gearbox and will be running a 6 speed getrag box. 
also contemplating changing turbo, I’ve bought a 68/75 turbo which has the .81 T4 open rear (I believe) 

considering changing to the Garrett G40 1150 using the .95 T4 divided rear . 
manifold I’m using is a 6 boost T4 divided 

  • Like 2
On 07/04/2022 at 10:17 AM, Old man 32 GTR said:

I’m getting Pro wire to do a custom engine loom to incorporate all the extra sensors, DBW etc, still haven’t decided weather I’ll delete the fuse box and run everything off a PDM. I want to change ECU to the Motec M150, just got to talk to a couple of people to see what my options are. 
I’m moving away from the factory plenum and will be running the Plazmaman. I’ve finally decided on gearbox and will be running a 6 speed getrag box. 
also contemplating changing turbo, I’ve bought a 68/75 turbo which has the .81 T4 open rear (I believe) 

considering changing to the Garrett G40 1150 using the .95 T4 divided rear . 
manifold I’m using is a 6 boost T4 divided 

Getting serious!  Will be an absolute weapon! 

On 7/4/2022 at 11:26 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Getting serious!  Will be an absolute weapon! 

Hoping for a nice reliable street car, but am going overboard in some areas,  and I do know that, but… GTR life! Lol 

Well as my plans on set up change more then my underwear I’ve decided to strengthen up the bottom end of the motor while it’s out of the car. 
will be installing a PRP brace with billet main caps and 1/2 inch main studs.

will make final decision tomorrow, but will probably get the 7675 sportsman with 1.12 T4 divided rear with a proper divided manifold. 
At this stage I’m thinking (and this will probably change 10 times before the car is done) but will run the getrag for a couple of years and enjoy the car for street duties, then I’ll just bite the bullet and put either an Albins or Samsonas in it and do the track stuff. 
I’ve spoken to a couple of people I know who are running similar turbos, (both have 2.7, one running 7675, other 7685) and both say it’s not as laggy as you’d think, but crazy fast when it’s on. 🤔

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...