Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 24/3/2022 at 6:54 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

If doing a DBW with ecu/loom can now do it on factory plenum
https://www.iee.nz/product-page/rb26-drive-by-wire-system

Yes, I currently have a modified factory plenum with single throttle DBW 

 

07361A0E-67C3-4618-84B0-16254CCD89D1.jpeg

On 24/03/2022 at 7:03 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

Yes, I currently have a modified factory plenum with single throttle DBW 

Then just keep the factory plenum :) 

No need to burn more money on a fancy Plazmaman plenum for little gain (if any). It does look good though, billet dis dat albeit for a Rb25 shit box.

On 25/3/2022 at 12:14 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Then just keep the factory plenum :) 

No need to burn more money on a fancy Plazmaman plenum for little gain (if any). It does look good though, billet dis dat albeit for a Rb25 shit box.

Yep, my mechanic said, little to no gain in performance, all for aesthetics, problem is, with as far as I’m now going with the car, should I skimp out on this??? 
my personal opinion is, I love the Nismo plenum, but to buy one and cut it up seems…questionable. 

If you're going to change it, at least go a Plazmaman or CPC not a Nismo one. Nismo "performance" parts don't really perform if you know what I mean.

(This is my personal opinion 🙂)

On 25/3/2022 at 10:30 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

If you're going to change it, at least go a Plazmaman or CPC not a Nismo one. Nismo "performance" parts don't really perform if you know what I mean.

(This is my personal opinion 🙂)

maybe a little…😆

The Nismo plenum only makes sense if you want a few key design elements like the longest intake runners you can fit in a factory ITB setup and the different intake runner designs to avoid leaning out cylinder 6 to some extent. A single plenum design like the Nismo as far as I can tell will never actually work perfectly at equalizing airflow between cylinders. Dollar for dollar it is a horrible upgrade IMO but I have weird priorities. HKS is working on a dual plenum design that may be more what you're looking for and will be single DBW throttle body.

On 25/03/2022 at 10:47 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

maybe a little…😆

He's still using the factory ITB, you're planning on chopping it to fit a single DBW TB which will affect the way air flows and distributes across the runners at partial throttle.

On 26/3/2022 at 11:13 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

He's still using the factory ITB, you're planning on chopping it to fit a single DBW TB which will affect the way air flows and distributes across the runners at partial throttle.

Something I haven’t considered, I am leaning towards getting the Plazmaman plenum. 

  • Like 1
On 24/03/2022 at 6:28 PM, Old man 32 GTR said:

In my quest to catch up to R32 25T, things are moving forward, more parts back from cerakote. Hoping to order the gearbox next week. 

All your cerakoted parts look great and it seems to suit a wide range of parts. I was thinking of having front and rear hoon bars, miscellaneous brackets, Apexi pod elbows, battery retainer bar and the ugly retainer that the throttle cable passes through done.

Do you think anything on that list isn’t suitable? I googled this for at least 60 seconds but most of the articles were about how it would improve the longevity of the assault rifle that I don't own.

  • Haha 1
On 26/3/2022 at 4:53 PM, Robzilla32 said:

All your cerakoted parts look great and it seems to suit a wide range of parts. I was thinking of having front and rear hoon bars, miscellaneous brackets, Apexi pod elbows, battery retainer bar and the ugly retainer that the throttle cable passes through done.

Do you think anything on that list isn’t suitable? I googled this for at least 60 seconds but most of the articles were about how it would improve the longevity of the assault rifle that I don't own.

That is all suitable, They can even do plastic parts, he showed me a fuse box cover from a VL he did, looked brand new. I’ve given him a few plastic parts, I’ll post them when I get them back. 

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...

More parts ordered, more parts coming in, Nismo restoration! Pfft, got nothing on me. Lmao 

Also got brand new headlights. 

Had the engine bay ceramic coated by my Detailer while it’s bare, came up a treat. 

BCB8A031-BBAE-49E7-8571-CB36A1A782AB.jpeg

E2FC344B-1982-4565-B09E-8E9CA1CE52FC.jpeg

A594FC13-0FA6-460A-A5E5-43EF39F1AAD1.jpeg

9555371C-522D-48D7-8444-71F51C77FA6A.jpeg

  • Like 2
On 7/4/2022 at 8:35 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Full resto!

That engine bay is going to look amazing once all back together.  Are you doing anything funky like wire tucking, brake line redirection or anything else?

I’m getting Pro wire to do a custom engine loom to incorporate all the extra sensors, DBW etc, still haven’t decided weather I’ll delete the fuse box and run everything off a PDM. I want to change ECU to the Motec M150, just got to talk to a couple of people to see what my options are. 
I’m moving away from the factory plenum and will be running the Plazmaman. I’ve finally decided on gearbox and will be running a 6 speed getrag box. 
also contemplating changing turbo, I’ve bought a 68/75 turbo which has the .81 T4 open rear (I believe) 

considering changing to the Garrett G40 1150 using the .95 T4 divided rear . 
manifold I’m using is a 6 boost T4 divided 

  • Like 2
On 07/04/2022 at 10:17 AM, Old man 32 GTR said:

I’m getting Pro wire to do a custom engine loom to incorporate all the extra sensors, DBW etc, still haven’t decided weather I’ll delete the fuse box and run everything off a PDM. I want to change ECU to the Motec M150, just got to talk to a couple of people to see what my options are. 
I’m moving away from the factory plenum and will be running the Plazmaman. I’ve finally decided on gearbox and will be running a 6 speed getrag box. 
also contemplating changing turbo, I’ve bought a 68/75 turbo which has the .81 T4 open rear (I believe) 

considering changing to the Garrett G40 1150 using the .95 T4 divided rear . 
manifold I’m using is a 6 boost T4 divided 

Getting serious!  Will be an absolute weapon! 

On 7/4/2022 at 11:26 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Getting serious!  Will be an absolute weapon! 

Hoping for a nice reliable street car, but am going overboard in some areas,  and I do know that, but… GTR life! Lol 

Well as my plans on set up change more then my underwear I’ve decided to strengthen up the bottom end of the motor while it’s out of the car. 
will be installing a PRP brace with billet main caps and 1/2 inch main studs.

will make final decision tomorrow, but will probably get the 7675 sportsman with 1.12 T4 divided rear with a proper divided manifold. 
At this stage I’m thinking (and this will probably change 10 times before the car is done) but will run the getrag for a couple of years and enjoy the car for street duties, then I’ll just bite the bullet and put either an Albins or Samsonas in it and do the track stuff. 
I’ve spoken to a couple of people I know who are running similar turbos, (both have 2.7, one running 7675, other 7685) and both say it’s not as laggy as you’d think, but crazy fast when it’s on. 🤔

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...