Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I assume this is a gtst or gtt, if so just buy a turbo and fit it don't bother trying to make hybrids as they don't work 

Rb26dett gtt r34. Sorry for my bad eng. My rebuilted turbos 2510 worked well for 3 yeas, quick spool 3000 1kg, max boost 1.8. but unfortunately in them something was horrible and damaged the wheels. Then I decided rebuild they and to increase the rear end of the turbine to 2530. But 2530 is a very old turbine and I decided to look at the catalog garrett to  search of a new turbine and came across a GTX2863. I want to take the chra (cartridge) of GTX2863 and put it in the hks body while increasing the rear of the turbine and compressor housing. but on the calculator comes out a very lagly so it is. or it is better to stop at 2530. There where do the turbines said that after boring the rear and the front hull hks differ from GTX and will not be. They said that it would give an exact copy of the turbine GTX2863. In Russia, this is the only company that manufactures qualitatively turbines on a double-saw saddle-bearing.

Then spool up original twin gtx2863 on rb26?

1.jpg

11.jpg

111.jpg

1111.jpg

Edited by frakzz
2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

*cough* current M3 and M4 are twin turbo...

But... a bigger motor and proper variable cams.

Things a GTR should have had in the 34 :(

Hrms.. you may be right for that lol 

On 23.09.2017 at 10:09 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Every "experiment" with larger GTX wheels ends up with anti climatic results.

If you want to burn money correctly I suggest you go a big twin scroll turbo and be happy. Every owner who wants response, driveability and big power all end up moving to a modern single. If it took BMW only 3 years to work out twins are gay it's sure taking a damn while for you GT-R boys.

I will take the risk

rebuld my hks GT2510 to GTX2860R

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Voodoo did his and they were a disaster and sold them for a lot less then it cost him in the first place 

his change only compressor wheel to 2863, i  change all enternals (CHRA) 

he did not increase the back, it turned out that there is a bottleneck

he changed only the compressor wheel, and I changed all the insides and grind the turbine house (replace to GTXCHRA 2860)

2860 wheel less than 2863

 

 HKS GT2510

COMPRESSOR:
-Wheel- 63 Trim - 47.7 Inducer / 60.1 Major -Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R
TURBINE:
-Wheel- 62 Trim - 53.0 Major / 41.7 Exducer -Housing- GT25 inlet / Internal GT25 oulet - 0.64 A/R


GTX2860R

Compressor Wheel: 45.7 / 60 mm / Trim 58 (GTX 11+0 Blade billet Wheel / Extend tapered tip)
Turbine Wheel: 47.0 mm / 53.8 mm / Trim 76

Edited by frakzz
9 hours ago, frakzz said:

his change only compressor wheel to 2863, i  change all enternals (CHRA) 

he did not increase the back, it turned out that there is a bottleneck

he changed only the compressor wheel, and I changed all the insides and grind the turbine house (replace to GTXCHRA 2860)

2860 wheel less than 2863

 

 HKS GT2510

COMPRESSOR:
-Wheel- 63 Trim - 47.7 Inducer / 60.1 Major -Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R
TURBINE:
-Wheel- 62 Trim - 53.0 Major / 41.7 Exducer -Housing- GT25 inlet / Internal GT25 oulet - 0.64 A/R


GTX2860R

Compressor Wheel: 45.7 / 60 mm / Trim 58 (GTX 11+0 Blade billet Wheel / Extend tapered tip)
Turbine Wheel: 47.0 mm / 53.8 mm / Trim 76

That's cute mate.

How do you plan on making the smaller inducer of the GTX wheel fill the larger hole left by the GT wheel?

Do yourself a favour and forget about shoehorning this and that into places where they don't belong. If you REALLY want to run GTX 2860's then do it properly and run the genuine GTX housings and redo the pipework to suit (IE 3.0 inch all the way to the compressor covers) and do away with the small, tight Nissan gear. 

5 hours ago, Piggaz said:

That's cute mate.

How do you plan on making the smaller inducer of the GTX wheel fill the larger hole left by the GT wheel?

Do yourself a favour and forget about shoehorning this and that into places where they don't belong. If you REALLY want to run GTX 2860's then do it properly and run the genuine GTX housings and redo the pipework to suit (IE 3.0 inch all the way to the compressor covers) and do away with the small, tight Nissan gear.

See the result next week after setting aem

1.jpg

2.jpg

Edited by frakzz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...