Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I assume this is a gtst or gtt, if so just buy a turbo and fit it don't bother trying to make hybrids as they don't work 

Rb26dett gtt r34. Sorry for my bad eng. My rebuilted turbos 2510 worked well for 3 yeas, quick spool 3000 1kg, max boost 1.8. but unfortunately in them something was horrible and damaged the wheels. Then I decided rebuild they and to increase the rear end of the turbine to 2530. But 2530 is a very old turbine and I decided to look at the catalog garrett to  search of a new turbine and came across a GTX2863. I want to take the chra (cartridge) of GTX2863 and put it in the hks body while increasing the rear of the turbine and compressor housing. but on the calculator comes out a very lagly so it is. or it is better to stop at 2530. There where do the turbines said that after boring the rear and the front hull hks differ from GTX and will not be. They said that it would give an exact copy of the turbine GTX2863. In Russia, this is the only company that manufactures qualitatively turbines on a double-saw saddle-bearing.

Then spool up original twin gtx2863 on rb26?

1.jpg

11.jpg

111.jpg

1111.jpg

Edited by frakzz
2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

*cough* current M3 and M4 are twin turbo...

But... a bigger motor and proper variable cams.

Things a GTR should have had in the 34 :(

Hrms.. you may be right for that lol 

On 23.09.2017 at 10:09 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Every "experiment" with larger GTX wheels ends up with anti climatic results.

If you want to burn money correctly I suggest you go a big twin scroll turbo and be happy. Every owner who wants response, driveability and big power all end up moving to a modern single. If it took BMW only 3 years to work out twins are gay it's sure taking a damn while for you GT-R boys.

I will take the risk

rebuld my hks GT2510 to GTX2860R

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Voodoo did his and they were a disaster and sold them for a lot less then it cost him in the first place 

his change only compressor wheel to 2863, i  change all enternals (CHRA) 

he did not increase the back, it turned out that there is a bottleneck

he changed only the compressor wheel, and I changed all the insides and grind the turbine house (replace to GTXCHRA 2860)

2860 wheel less than 2863

 

 HKS GT2510

COMPRESSOR:
-Wheel- 63 Trim - 47.7 Inducer / 60.1 Major -Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R
TURBINE:
-Wheel- 62 Trim - 53.0 Major / 41.7 Exducer -Housing- GT25 inlet / Internal GT25 oulet - 0.64 A/R


GTX2860R

Compressor Wheel: 45.7 / 60 mm / Trim 58 (GTX 11+0 Blade billet Wheel / Extend tapered tip)
Turbine Wheel: 47.0 mm / 53.8 mm / Trim 76

Edited by frakzz
9 hours ago, frakzz said:

his change only compressor wheel to 2863, i  change all enternals (CHRA) 

he did not increase the back, it turned out that there is a bottleneck

he changed only the compressor wheel, and I changed all the insides and grind the turbine house (replace to GTXCHRA 2860)

2860 wheel less than 2863

 

 HKS GT2510

COMPRESSOR:
-Wheel- 63 Trim - 47.7 Inducer / 60.1 Major -Housing- 60 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R
TURBINE:
-Wheel- 62 Trim - 53.0 Major / 41.7 Exducer -Housing- GT25 inlet / Internal GT25 oulet - 0.64 A/R


GTX2860R

Compressor Wheel: 45.7 / 60 mm / Trim 58 (GTX 11+0 Blade billet Wheel / Extend tapered tip)
Turbine Wheel: 47.0 mm / 53.8 mm / Trim 76

That's cute mate.

How do you plan on making the smaller inducer of the GTX wheel fill the larger hole left by the GT wheel?

Do yourself a favour and forget about shoehorning this and that into places where they don't belong. If you REALLY want to run GTX 2860's then do it properly and run the genuine GTX housings and redo the pipework to suit (IE 3.0 inch all the way to the compressor covers) and do away with the small, tight Nissan gear. 

5 hours ago, Piggaz said:

That's cute mate.

How do you plan on making the smaller inducer of the GTX wheel fill the larger hole left by the GT wheel?

Do yourself a favour and forget about shoehorning this and that into places where they don't belong. If you REALLY want to run GTX 2860's then do it properly and run the genuine GTX housings and redo the pipework to suit (IE 3.0 inch all the way to the compressor covers) and do away with the small, tight Nissan gear.

See the result next week after setting aem

1.jpg

2.jpg

Edited by frakzz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...