Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

 

I just found this thread as I haven't been very active on SAU lately.  I'm seeking some opinions and wanted to start a discussion as this relates to GTR pricing.

 

I got defected a few months ago for having an exhaust that was too loud.  My fault entirely - I knew it and was pretty much on borrowed time, but chose to run the risk anyway as it was pretty much a weekend car (if that).  Long story short, I'll need to go through a full regency inspection to clear the defect.  This is where my troubles begin.

 

 My car is quite heavily modified:

 

RB26/30

Forged Internals

Unknown cams

Trust 100mm Drag Intercooler

Vipec V44

1400cc Injectors

2 x E85 460Lph fuel pumps

O/S Giken 5 speed

O/S Giken triple plate

Vcam - http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448677-new-rb26-vcam-in-let-setup-3000/

HKS GT2530's

Tomei dumps

R34GTR exhaust manifolds, port matched to turbos

Unknown aftermarket 2x70mm into 80mm to meet up with the old AM Performance 4" exhaust

Running on ~ 70% Ethanol content it achieved the attached figures.

 

My dilemna is whether I clear the defect (looking at least $5K for labour to return to stock and then back again) and keep driving it around hoping I'll get my money back later on?  Or should I just bite the bullet and sell it now and not spend any further money on it?  I'd probably be looking at overseas markets - that way I don't have to worry about the defect. 

 

My car is a 1990 Gunmetal grey with ~120k kms on the chassis and the new engine barely run in.  It's in pretty decent overall condition but is not a garage queen.

 

Would appreciate your opinions guys.  I have a daily so am happy to keep this car off the road for a while.

 

Cheers

20161111 - GTR Dyno.jpg

Sorry to hear mate, have you considered buying a complete stock motor? Could probably pick one up for 3k. Do engine swap, clear defect, then swap back.
Your build is almost a mirror build of my car.
Also how much are they going to check, will they go right through the whole car or just check the exhaust is compliant?

That's one option I'd explored already.  There's a place in SA called Sinergy Motorsports that specialise in clearing defects and they're happy to source the motor and do the swap for me.  I'm mechanically retarded, so would rely on a workshop to do the work.  It would cost at least $5K to do all up.  I'll keep an eye out for complete stock motors and see what turns up as this could make things a bit cheaper to do.

 

Unfortunately the defect requires going through Regency inspection, which is a full inspection of the car.  I guess it could be luck of the draw on the day.

 

I guess I've had the car for over 10 years and I thought this might be a sign to finally move on from the car, but I'm not too up to date in terms of market pricing and what I should realistically be doing from a financial standpoint.

 

Thanks for the feedback.  Let's keep the discussion going!

How much do the inspections cost? Why not have a shot at it with a quiet exhaust and changing over the other obvious things they'll pick up on? The turbos and engine itself shouldn't be picked up (assuming you haven't notified them of the different engine number, perhaps say it needed replacing and you hadn't updated it yet). As long as you swap around intake and exhaust you might get lucky on the rest? Worth it if it's a couple hundred to test...

generally in SA i have found if you have made a proper effort they will check the basics and ID and move on. 

if you have tried dodging around the rules and taking the piss with things then they will keep going further.

i.e. when people used to tac weld coilovers so they were "no longer adjustable" or jamming steel wool up huge exhausts the muffle the noise level to move around the laws then they would just hit you hard elsewhere.

but if your cars clean, not too loud, normal parts and well maintained and that you have made a reasonable effort with their prev concerns, then generally they will just make sure the basics are in order. that being said it does depend on the person at the time like all law enforcement situations.

Thanks for the feedback guys.  I think I might do the basics and try once to see what happens.

 

OK, given that this thread is about GTR prices, I'll try and put this back on topic a bit.

 

What would you do if you were me:

 

1)  Worst case spend say around $7K returning to stock and clearing the defect, then maybe keep the car for a bit and or sell

2)  Bite the bullet now and sell it off overseas as is, saving myself the time and money of clearing the defect.  Are overseas buyers interested in heavily modified cars?  Can they get them registered easily?  

 

Cheers

overseas buyers buy them clean from japan. they wont be interested in AUS stuff usually.

take it to Josh at Forge performance. have a frank chat to him about what you want to do and he will give you a good idea on what can be done at a decent budget and get it registered all smick as is.

then you can sell it in aus much easier and for a good dollar.

 i would personally be staying away from synergy.

On 18/09/2017 at 7:07 PM, mxfly said:

 


Price of that blue nur has gone up and down like a yoyo. Was initially 188k. Would've been sold if it was a solid car. The other blue nur with white te37 from Carlingford, Syd sold reasonably quick. The asking was 200k.

 

You were right, the yoyo is going back up now. Price back to 215 after some new photos.

Check this out - prices have further skyrocketed ....  this guy believes so :4_joy::4_joy:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/leederville/cars-vans-utes/1996-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-v-spec-ii-silver/1161617390

What do you say.....lol

     

Edited by IMACUL8
12 hours ago, IMACUL8 said:

Check this out - prices have further skyrocketed ....  this guy believes so :4_joy::4_joy:

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/leederville/cars-vans-utes/1996-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-v-spec-ii-silver/1161617390

What do you say.....lol

Under specifications:

Body Type: 4D Sedan
Country of Origin: Australia
Release date: 1/09/1986

?? maybe they put personal info there instead of car info lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...