Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Apologies, I know there are probably loads of threads about this. A search brings up a stack of results but nothing that specifically answering my question.

My stock turbo popped on my R33 GTST (I think its series 1.5). There is slight shaft play and the impeller is touching the housing. 

Question is, should I recon it and have the ceramic wheel replaced with a metal one or change the turbo? 

My end goal is 400-450hp. The plan was to do injectors, MAF etc. before the turbo but i have to change that around now.

If I change the turbo, what are the suggestions for something which will be a straight swop or close to it?

The car is basically stock with just a milteck exhaust. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473250-suggested-turbo-on-a-stock-rb25/
Share on other sites

I used he atr45 externally gated from hypergear turbo on my 33 on 98 and made 300kw atw. Great bang for buck. I had all supporting mods 750cc injectors haltech etc if you Have more money to play with gtx3076r gen 1 or 2 is also a great responsive turbo.

 

Another vote for GTX3071 here. 

OP mentioned he was thinking about injectors and AFM etc, so this is a turbo that will make the most out of that. GTX3071 may be not THE_BEST_EVER for outright performance on stock RB25, but it is by far the simplest way to get 99% of the performance anyone is going to ever need given what you've said just now.

 

I have an Rb25neo with an ATR45 and a mate with a GTX 3071 Gen 2 also on an Rb25neo making roughly around the same power.

 

Cept my ATR45 is laggy as and you really feel the boost kick in. GTX 3071 Gen 2 is linear and happy days.

High mount, twin scroll, twin gates or one massive single gate and a modern turbo.

Keep the exhaust pressure down and the motor will live. 

Food for thought, stock motors will happily crank out ~370kW at the wheels for days if you don't abuse them like a wh0re on the track.

  • Like 2

Atr43g3sat with external gate from hypergear looks to be the goods, best response for that power from what ive read and also for the right price

Surprised by all the gtx3071 votes, lots of people talk about using that turbo but ive not really seen too many that do (dyno graphs that is)

21 minutes ago, Findlay said:

Atr43g3sat with external gate from hypergear looks to be the goods, best response for that power from what ive read and also for the right price

Surprised by all the gtx3071 votes, lots of people talk about using that turbo but ive not really seen too many that do (dyno graphs that is)

Not sure if there are many results on the GTX 3071 Gen 2 on an RB25 but here is one:

Its a built motor though, but it also has alot of restrictions. 

 

IMG_1135.thumb.jpg.5ae85b5138d9733d2513845dbca6efd3.jpg
 

 

 

 

For a internally gated setup the flow of the engine system is strongly dependent on the exhaust, so in a common scenario it will be what ever an 3 inches exhaust can flow, and that is usually up to around 400HP wheels. Anything rated to higher power levels is recommended to work with an external gate unless can run a big straight pipe to ground. 

Far as power and response, I recommend our latest Ball bearing ATR43SAT series.  ATR45SAT (Note: ATR45 (3582) and ATR45SAT are very different turbos) is capable of making alot more power if externally gated is in mind.

ATR43G3SAT CBB Power 317rwkws P98 fuel internally gated

ATR43G3SAT CBB Boost 317rwkws P98 fuel internally gated

 

19 hours ago, Die$eL said:

The car is basically stock. 

There's a lot of recommendations made that are going to require a $10k minimum spend to make the car capable of running reliably.  They're not bad ideas, just failing to acknowledge the financials.

Until OP is prepared/able to pony up for all the regular associated upgrades - ECU, cooler, proper exhaust, fuel system, clutch, rubber, brakes, suspension I'd say he's best to stick with a small close to stock sized replacement running low boost eg 10psi and keep motoring until the funds are there.

  • Like 1
44 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

There's a lot of recommendations made that are going to require a $10k minimum spend to make the car capable of running reliably.  They're not bad ideas, just failing to acknowledge the financials.

Until OP is prepared/able to pony up for all the regular associated upgrades - ECU, cooler, proper exhaust, fuel system, clutch, rubber, brakes, suspension I'd say he's best to stick with a small close to stock sized replacement running low boost eg 10psi and keep motoring until the funds are there.

 

Well, if you want to be sensible about it, it doesn't make any sense to buy the "wrong" turbo for his end goal now, just so it won't overrun his injectors and AFM.  Piggie's original recommendation (and mine) implied that he would buy the turbo he wanted AND make sure he had the fuel and management also, although I'll admit that we didn't make that real clear.

Needless to say, the whole exercise is probably best reconsidered.  What the OP really needs is a 2nd hand stock R33 turbo to throw back onto the car until he is actually ready to do the needful.

  • Like 1

But it's SAU, when does anyone listen to sensible recommendations?

My pick would be:

  • Top feed conversion
  • External FPR
  • Wallah bro 460
  • Splitfires
  • Nistune with Feature Pack
  • Continental Flex Sensor
  • EBC of some sort
  • HG G3 Highflow
  • Decent FMIC
  • Decent TBE
  • 1.5/2 way LSD
  • Decent coilovers
  • Traction Rods, Rear camber arms, castor rods, HICAS eliminator
  • Intima SR brake pads all round

Call it a day, 300kW street beast.

5 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

But it's SAU, when does anyone listen to sensible recommendations?

My pick would be:

  • Top feed conversion
  • External FPR
  • Wallah bro 460
  • Splitfires
  • Nistune with Feature Pack
  • Continental Flex Sensor
  • EBC of some sort
  • HG G3 Highflow
  • Decent FMIC
  • Decent TBE
  • 1.5/2 way LSD
  • Decent coilovers
  • Traction Rods, Rear camber arms, castor rods, HICAS eliminator
  • Intima SR brake pads all round

Call it a day, 300kW street beast.

Pretty much just described my car, almost. Can confirm its an awesome setup on E85.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...