Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I’m planning my RB28 build since the engine now isn’t at the condition I want it to be at.

I will only use this car mostly for street and occasionally track days, therefore I want it to be responsive and stealth. My target is around 700whp .

Here is my wish list,

N1 Block
Borg Warner EFR 8374 1.05a/r hotside
Garage Whifbitz T4 Twin wastegate Twin Scroll Manifold
Twin Turbosmart Compgate 40mm external Wastegates
NITTO's RB26DETT 2.8Ltr Stroker Kit
Tomei 1.2mm Headgasket
Tomei Oil Pump
King Bearings
ARP Custom Age 625 Plus Head Stuts
Tomei Procam 260Degree 10.8mm Lift Intake
Tomei Procam 270Degree 10.8mm Lift Exhaust
Tomei Adjustable Cam Wheel
Tomei Type B Valve Springs
Tomei Type B Titanium Retainers
Tomei Bronze Valve Guides
Twin Walbro 450 Fuel Pump with Frenchys Performance Garage Twin Pump In-Tank Fuel System Kit

Earl’s Pro-Lite Ultra Hose -8 AN Feed & -6 AN Return Fuel Line
Plazmaman Fuel Rail
Fuelab Fuel Pressure Regulator
ASNU 1400cc 14 Holes Injectors
Ross Performance Crank Cam Trigger Kit
Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-in ECU
Greddy/Trust Intercooler
Greddy/Trust Radiator
ATS Twin Plate Carbon Clutch
Tomei EXPREME Ti Exhaust

Edited by etang789

Don't get Tomei valve springs, they're made out of a child's faeces, get BC or Supertech.

Don't get Procams, where's @Piggaz? Lol

Don't get a Ross trigger kit, get the Platinum Racing one.

Don't get the Platinum Pro, go Elite 2000 or 2500 (more features and inputs/outputs)

  • Like 1
16 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Don't get Tomei valve springs, they're made out of a child's faeces, get BC or Supertech.

Don't get Procams, where's @Piggaz? Lol

Don't get a Ross trigger kit, get the Platinum Racing one.

Don't get the Platinum Pro, go Elite 2000 or 2500 (more features and inputs/outputs)

I was thinking Ferrea valve springs and valves before.

Which cams would you suggest then?

I prefer the Ross over Platinum Racing because the sensor mount looks more stock and the wiring isn’t just sticking towards front of the car

I already have the Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-In for running a few years already.

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

Cause it does everything better 

not wrong but a 2.6 is still going to rip lol

23 minutes ago, Dale FZ1 said:

Indeed.  When 3.4 is a tried and tested option.

dont forget to add a billet block to the list

10 hours ago, etang789 said:

I was thinking Ferrea valve springs and valves before.

Which cams would you suggest then?

I prefer the Ross over Platinum Racing because the sensor mount looks more stock and the wiring isn’t just sticking towards front of the car

I already have the Haltech Platinum Pro Plug-In for running a few years already.

Yeah go with those springs OR BC or Supertech, the Tomei rubbish will give you nothing but issues when you start feeding in boost.

CAMS, give Kelford a call/e-mail and tell them what you're doing - I have no faith in those brappy Tomei cams, many have ended up putting in stock cams and/or switched to much lower duration cams so power band is much more usable.

Looks don't mean much, however the PRP kits use cherry sensors and can be fitted to any crank damper/pulley unlike the Ross kits.

Also if you decide to get the PRP you can't use the Haltech Platinum Pro as you can't unlock the trigger settings haha..


Lastly,  why Tomei pump when a Nitto pump can be had? Since you're going Nitto most things, might as well get a Nitto pump.

I noticed the word "Tomei" often repeated in that list as well as GReddy/TRUST way too many times ???

 

7 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

Need Tomei for dat Speedhunters feature

http://www.speedhunters.com/2018/04/project-gt-r-gets-bigger-turbos/

LOL EVEN BIGGER twins, for that crisp lag

Refer back to :

http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/05/project-gtr-and-the-road-to-new-lungs/

  • Like 3
7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

"Since this first step is all about low-end torque and throttle response, I thought the HKS route would be the best option."

 

Riiiiiightttt :D

 

1 hour ago, WantGTR said:

not wrong but a 2.6 is still going to rip lol

Yes it will but if you ever get to drive a 2.8 you’ll agree that it’s money well spent 

 

if mine lets go the first thing on the shopping list will be a stroker kit

  • Like 1
47 minutes ago, Lithium said:

"Since this first step is all about low-end torque and throttle response, I thought the HKS route would be the best option."

 

Riiiiiightttt :D

 

He probably got discounted shit, just an advertising platform.
You can't go that fast in car parks anyway.

  • Haha 1
3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Yes it will but if you ever get to drive a 2.8 you’ll agree that it’s money well spent 

 

if mine lets go the first thing on the shopping list will be a stroker kit

Budget Supercar went 9.92 with a stock bottom end. 2.8 or not, thats moving.

I never said it can’t be done but it doesn’t make it the best way to do it or make it a better street car 

there’s a reason maatouks, crd and etc up the capacity, cause it’s better 

9 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I never said it can’t be done but it doesn’t make it the best way to do it or make it a better street car 

there’s a reason maatouks, crd and etc up the capacity, cause it’s better 

no replacement for displacement :)

(inserts disclaimer about variable CR, cam timing, lift, TS, DI)

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah go with those springs OR BC or Supertech, the Tomei rubbish will give you nothing but issues when you start feeding in boost.

CAMS, give Kelford a call/e-mail and tell them what you're doing - I have no faith in those brappy Tomei cams, many have ended up putting in stock cams and/or switched to much lower duration cams so power band is much more usable.

Looks don't mean much, however the PRP kits use cherry sensors and can be fitted to any crank damper/pulley unlike the Ross kits.

Also if you decide to get the PRP you can't use the Haltech Platinum Pro as you can't unlock the trigger settings haha..


Lastly,  why Tomei pump when a Nitto pump can be had? Since you're going Nitto most things, might as well get a Nitto pump.

I noticed the word "Tomei" often repeated in that list as well as GReddy/TRUST way too many times ???

 

Yea I have emailed Kelford already waiting for their reply.

I guess I have to stick with Ross kit unless I switch ECU then

Yea been thinking either Tomei or Nitto for oil pump. Seems more people have used Tomei that’s all.

Reason for Tomei Exhaust is seems like they are the biggest size exhaust that’s off the shelf avaliable and decently priced. Local exhaust shop here is crap so custom make one isn’t an option, can’t accept those Workmanship on my car.

Reason for quite some Greddy/Trust parts is because I bought the car with everything Greddy/Trust installed and unless it’s critical I guess I will keep them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...