Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

22 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

I wonder if you can fit the new Subaru 2.4L turbo engine in

Currently very costly I would assume, lots of extra wiring and shit 

FA24 is "apparently" pretty much a bored out FA20, so, maybe a viable bottom end swap if/when needed.

Not sure of how/if they added strength to the block or internals.

Also not sure about oiling.

I am keen to see what people do, I'm not going to be one of the first though.

 

 

11 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Hey @mlr

Wasn't there something mentioned earlier about these things having a gearbox issue with more power? 

Yeap, gearbox is rated to 250nm, when you take into account 10% or more safety factor, it should hold up for street thrashing and skids on 225 RS3's.

Wise clutch selection is also required, the stock clutch hopefully should hold, if not, a slightly heavier one may be required, but, nothing overly heavy, the clutch will be the fuse prior to the gearbox.

10 minutes ago, admS15 said:

They'll handle 190rwkw with a mature driver behind the wheel. MLR hopes so anyway. Lol.

I might be old, but I'm definitely not mature, mad skids will be had.

1 minute ago, admS15 said:

Thats the spirit.

Plus from typical dyno results I should be around 230nm, so 20 spare nm.

No, lets NOT talk about the difference between engine torque and wheel torque, my gearbox will survive because I will fill it with hopes and dreams.

On another note, isn't the gearbox the same aisin 6 speed that is found in s15's or is it a lower spec version of it?

 

I was putting 415nm through my s15 and the box handled it fine.

 

Edit

 

You should speak to sau member mini wog i think it is who has been running a turbo'd 86 for a while now. Not sure if its still original standard box, i think it is. He recently inreased boost and power to around 220rwkw, runs r specs and frequently tracks the car, seems to handle it well.

 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
5 hours ago, mlr said:
Been thinking, again, bad things happen when I think..........booked in for early September, dooh....
TURBO KIT
  • Custom spec billet wheel turbo + upgraded wastegate actuator
  • Oil scavenge pump setup
  • Unequal length exhaust headers
  • Front Mount Intercooler & piping (black)
  • Intake piping to mate to factory airbox (powder coated black, very stock looking)
  • HKS high flow air filter element
  • All fittings & braided lines required
  • Oil breather & catch can setup
  • All labour to install
  • Custom Pulse Racing Tune (Including launch control, flat foot shifting, auto-blip on downshifts – whichever options you desire"

And yes, I desire all options.

This is good to hear. Be interesting to hear what you think of the once it has some more go.
Will you be using most of your current exhaust setup?

22 minutes ago, admS15 said:

On another note, isn't the gearbox the same aisin 6 speed that is found in s15's or is it a lower spec version of it?

I was putting 415nm through my s15 and the box handled it fine.

Aisin AZ6 have different internals between brands.

Anyways, my old 33's 5 speed was fine on RS3 with 700nm, different story on drag radials though, 700nm and sticky tyres ate them good.

 

I nevet ended up finding the manufactures specs on the Nissan RS5R30A, well, I think that's the one used.

 

10 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

This is good to hear. Be interesting to hear what you think of the once it has some more go.
Will you be using most of your current exhaust setup?

Yeap, only change with be the exhaust manifold of course, AVO use a UEL design, so it will sound a bit weird, "subi rumble", aka, dropped cylinder, but that's not a war stopper.

This whole "f**k it, lets boost" came from me wanting to quiten down the cold start without adding any further restrictions, tuning it out is problematic for other reasons, it was going to get louder too as I was looking for a better 4:2:1 header, the punched out OEM one, whilst it makes good power, could be better.

Ok.......LOL.......Apparently a turbo is a excellent way to muffle down some cold start noise.

So......f**k it, let's boost.....there is going to be a new restriction in the shape of a little turbo, I'm happy with that.

The big question, which has already been brought up, is how happy are my rods, bearings, gearbox and clutch going to be?????

Meh, f**k 'em, let's go

  • Like 2

That is the starkest reason to turbo a car. Good work.

 

 

Normally cold start can be loud as timing is retarded to warm cat up quickly. Just for reference, if those tables can be modified you could have just done that. But a turbo is obviously the sensible option!

 

  • Haha 1
19 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

That is the starkest reason to turbo a car. Good work.

 

 

Normally cold start can be loud as timing is retarded to warm cat up quickly. Just for reference, if those tables can be modified you could have just done that. But a turbo is obviously the sensible option!

 

You can modify the tables to reduce the overlap but it starts f**king with the idle, it's not just the timing either, there's black magic going on with the  fuel tables as well.

All to throw fire at the cats for 20 seconds to heat those puppies up.

So yes.....I could have added some bigger and better mufflers, but no great story ever started with, "I'm going to put a bigger muffler on my car".

  • Like 1
54 minutes ago, Duncan said:

sounds wierd....but i reckon you're making a mistake

I'll just leave this here history never repeats, I tell myself...

 

LOL, true uncle Duncan

But, yeah, there's always a but.

The 33 was taken too far for a daily, plus the actual build was a nightmare, lots of small, lets say, mistakes, caused more issues than what the car was worth, it spent more time getting the engine pulled out than was really needed, if the modifications were done correctly the first time I may still have the car, but there were multiple things wrong, plus beating on it at the drags took its toll as well, there were lessons learnt with that thing.

Putting a bolt on kit running 8psi on the 86 is a drop in the ocean compared to the 33.

In the end there's alot of fa20's running fine on low boost, we have 2 at work, 1 supercharged and 1 turbo, both have been boosted for a few years, but it's like anything, push things to far and stuff is gonna break, or, sometimes shit just happens.

In the end, if it lasts a few years I'll be happy, I'm waiting on what comes next with the next model 86 anyway, if they just don't drop the platform that is, lots of forum talk is all that's really happening ATM.

If/when it breaks, I'll work out why and deal with it then.

I am loving the little Bessie though, currently it has been my all time favorite car for throwing around.

Disclaimer: these are my thoughts this week, ask me again in a month or three and see how I'm feeling about stuff.

  • Like 2

All I'm saying....is I've known you for probably 10 years, and you have even less ability to stop yourself sliding down the slippery slope of modification than me....and I modified a bloody Leaf! And a Titan. And a Cima. And a Stagea. And a Cube. And even a bloody March Super Turbo. 

In fact, the stagea has been off the road for a year next week waiting for a bit more go...

I know your sickness too well.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2

When you do go silly and break a gearbox, coyote tuning were/are as far as I know using a t56 box in their test car. 

Besides the rods is there any other issues these have once boosted? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...