Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wanted to share with everyone some concrete information regarding replacing boot struts on R33 skyline, specifically the GTR but I am sure the information will be transferable. The reason I am posting is that there wasn't much information regarding pressures & the ability to remove the strut from the bracket (requiring drilling).

What I did ended up costing me $110.

Below is a picture I pulled from another thread, this is the part of the strut that is hard to remove. Very hard, but not impossible. What we did was use my 10mm spanner and wedge it in between the ball and the strut, then slowly work the it off. It looks like it's going to snap the strut and it ends up destroying it, but that's ok because new ones are cheap.

boot-struts.jpg

This is what mine looked like in the end.

_l_YlkhMrhBQ8EuTW0y2zCoronteQxKCJER7sheMowcDwPIacsgt8UsL1x21IK-aTNXtvJXg3_kDwKUO7ncCs5DhF97OgP03zCT2utJVgpasCM6swm6c6yBZghppOjRhrCDRNymusekRCAFCSLVeDDiJm-IyBLP34tFaLLj8iCNpO2l6-UBwXrdBHA8BrnRC2PnUvzFoIlPfql9mXz8kCw2L9ytvHw6U1scTkSBwqeMqsIX3wNksn_sPAbpZy7Kvlh3mOQGX7KphM2zUYUYY7fQyb_6DonTPI7HHveh-rqFTAxWNHIakGcNYvps9VAVQj_mvLAeoAlYLLJc-G9y9JH0t6EtBHhm5yN24o8_VHlDPboaZSpn4JoPdTUqAsb1Bh6kMrn--BwO5A_lftYEt7veVc8Mlg_eRZDr1nmb-pRaFW7WM8t08Ovg1xyN9jqbzhrRYS7wM9y4AxFwLHATXOaDlynuPHkZcUgY0ibAGwO6JeF_uLZs7dOxy4wcKj_m3rfQvjU6XJDkOfYiD5s24OyPnXqpZlMiQAxzc1wHM3VbEVKYgpPWqY3Ai_QBEcx5qndaGyljSAFyMJYY8KCQYhf5Icq7Vf4hdq6ORlGA=w731-h974-noMO_Ysbf9qqSSN3mh_W5cj--ZVZTDnQEdrg71b3qAL6ClwNPe2BAzRm9ffXwQtLNShfvVSrGZb1awzrTs-3wsiEDqajZLPoN-XH-oo3yrhDvt5S_iPPMs7CTedRr8Y9WVnNO4f4jH3znvJrerLZKaR1GZUm0gc0JunMDdDGBD_5Lga0DDMfHnarSUZq363IDwK97xkihWKBzrJRQAwiFYQw5j1Z9Dnv164W7OSwGE4XGxZ2eHIXysSShGk4IjHd_zD9SavOpyaH66YFmaVk38ecHVh0F1n5WLR9v8cqwuRQWMUZFyBWKd4hFCiprRS1wRgHjT9Iq1NS14jwjcKH2J9ydIEwV-D0wFsaZ5iPU1TVRZbW64atB04SPiQLer1iaCjN8IQuaboBUJBroqU-fMS23BF47Nh-odqGUvevbRwZJlZq-y8SrFnzt4yEWXv_Gd9q3ynKsZF2BcZsbcgSnhLdmijitWj445px4bXxpp9G_r_3lYpT3DMNRp0q12ksFoBKJ-o1_dLONJpkt8z3TBNpHHgJpGpvqu1omhtPLvdPN8GYOocaBcbO6StAmCCNv8PSKanLGhsXMwgLBHVr5axmsFFRB284OaLppLBXg=w731-h974-no

We ended up putting 100nm of pressure in each cyl. It holds the boot fine with a genuine GTR spoiler. If I had to do it again, I would put 150nm in each to see if it holds any better, BUT that 100 works just fine.

Any questions please shoot them through.

Edited by sleptema
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474449-r33-gtr-gas-boot-struts/
Share on other sites

What's 100nm in real pressure units?  You have given units of torque.  Pressure is measured in Pascals or multiples thereof (like kPa, MPa, etc) or in psi for knuckle dragging 'Muricans.  Or in N/mm2 (equivalent to MPa) or in bullshit units involving the heights of columns of fluid such as water or mercury.

Yeah sorry guys, I was thinking about that this morning and realised how stupid I must sound aha. The guy who did my struts didn't correct me, I believe it would be newtons.

EDIT: Re-uploading pictures of finished product.

IMG_20180707_111049.jpg

IMG_20180707_111053.jpg

Edited by sleptema
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all,

I am also keen to know where I can buy these as I have been looking and found nothing except a few used struts on eBay.

Any help would be appreciated...Every time I need to use my boot at the moment I feel like I have my head in a guillotine!!

On 7/31/2018 at 12:02 PM, Ty1 said:

Where abouts did you get this done? And these are new struts yeah? or did you end up managing to reuse the factory ones?

I used a generic strut specialist. Old ones needed to be thrown out as there was no way they could be re-used. He just used the brackets from the OEM ones and adapted them to fit on the new struts.

I believe he just measured the extents of the struts and ordered accordingly, and put above mentioned pressure into them.

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...

Hello

my Gas Strut were weak so I want to replace them.

This Topic pointed me in the right direction, thanks !

You can chosse this Model from Mercedes Part No.: 2218800329 

It s from the W221 S Class Hood strut.

You can find them for around 14$ on Aliexpress. They are a little bit too strong so I recommend to buy some used ones.

I only replaced one and the Hod stays in any angle.

I recommend to tap an M6 in the Bracket and add a nut to secure the strut.

They are a 14mm  to short, so the Trunk opens 12 cm less. Adding a spacer will fix this

I also replaced the rubber bumper . They are from Aliexpress also.IMG_2323.thumb.JPG.afe41b4eae5716055d1b1a494c668e28.JPGIMG_2326.thumb.JPG.1e7e979e952d3c797bb5eeadcbb3328a.JPGIMG_2328.thumb.JPG.0afff9f21876085c3da8d913c770010d.JPG

IMG_2327.JPG

IMG_2325.JPG

Edited by Fastlane
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

So I did some research, cause the Mercedes Strut were to strong

The original USED Struts have 30 kg while pushing and approx.20-25kg while holding.

The new ones should be around 35kg-40kg

And i Find the perfect one again on Aliexpress

search for:IMG_2392.thumb.JPG.21d8a83675800d67e8a9bd41aebdf543.JPG 320Mm 400N Flap Spring Flap Fitting Gas Spring !

they match perfectly.

The Trunk lid will hold until 15cm before reaching the lock.

 

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 13/08/2019 at 1:21 PM, rych said:

I hate to necro this but when you use a 10mm spaner to wedge the strut out did you had to drill a hole to make new strut fit? 

Nah, the strut guy just got a fitting on the new strut that fit over the 10mm ball joint.

  • 1 year later...
On 20/05/2019 at 8:47 PM, Fastlane said:And i Find the perfect one again on Aliexpress

search for:IMG_2392.thumb.JPG.21d8a83675800d67e8a9bd41aebdf543.JPG 320Mm 400N Flap Spring Flap Fitting Gas Spring !

they match perfectly.

The Trunk lid will hold until 15cm before reaching the lock.

 

Hopefully this is still correct years later because I’ve just purchased some. Cheers mate

  • 3 months later...
14 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:

I need a replacement for the trunk gas strut

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOPA-Gas-Bonnet-Strut-for-Mercedes-W221-C216-S350-S450-S500-S63-A2218800329/254807343124?hash=item3b53b38014:g:5fMAAOSwBYteZbCj&frcectupt=true

here's the link on ebay for the struts, in stock in Sydney.

If you need any strange brackets or ends. Here's the link to a strange brackets or ends seller also local.

https://www.gasstrutaustralia.com.au/

4 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOPA-Gas-Bonnet-Strut-for-Mercedes-W221-C216-S350-S450-S500-S63-A2218800329/254807343124?hash=item3b53b38014:g:5fMAAOSwBYteZbCj&frcectupt=true

here's the link on ebay for the struts, in stock in Sydney.

If you need any strange brackets or ends. Here's the link to a strange brackets or ends seller also local.

https://www.gasstrutaustralia.com.au/

I'm in the US, my concern is that the gas strut is too strong. The Alibaba generic one is said to be more appropriate, so I'm thinking of trying one of those first.

  • 2 weeks later...
On 23/01/2021 at 3:09 PM, IM-32-FK said:

Don’t get replacement ones, you can get the OEM ones regassed. There’s a couple of places in Sydney that I know who do it.

Only if the seals are good. If they're not, which they probably aren't, they're a throw away. Just retain the top boot lid mounts to adapt to new ones.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...