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Block Brace


WantGTR
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On 9/30/2018 at 9:06 AM, WantGTR said:

This is true.^^

Has anyone grouted a block and used a brace?

Side note. Spool imports also do a brace. Has anyone used this?

 

On 9/30/2018 at 10:33 AM, r32-25t said:

The spool one appears to replace the factory main caps/girdle which I’m not a fan of at all 

I am running a spool/kulig kit on my rb34. Engine builder has used to multiple times and on Godzilla's GTR making 1700hp. They pulled it down after a few meets and he said bearings were perfect and could have been reused.

Fingers crossed my block holds together with 1000hp

https://i.imgur.com/nC98b9A.jpg

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How much is the kulig kit? I understand the kulig kit comes with caps as well.

Turns out I've split a bore. Engine is out and considering my options. N1 blocks are too expensive. I am using another 26 block and it will be half grout filled. I don't know if I should buy a brace......

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4 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

How much is the kulig kit? I understand the kulig kit comes with caps as well.

Turns out I've split a bore. Engine is out and considering my options. N1 blocks are too expensive. I am using another 26 block and it will be half grout filled. I don't know if I should buy a brace......

I'm not sure, send them a msg on fb. I think might be slightly cheaper than spool. My motor came with kulig billet mains and I just put a spool girdle on it. Kulig designed and makes all the kits for Spool. You want to dowl the main caps as well which makes them not walk around then the girdle ties them all together for extra strength. 

I'm a bit sad I didn't half grout fill my block especially with the power I'm chasing. I wonder if a brace is needed for >1000hp if you're grout filling. Would splitting a bore would be more from cylinder pressure and temps more than the block twisting and front diff?

If block twisting and front diff then I would defs brace it, if pressures and temps then I reckon grout will be fine. Maybe just brace it and turn it up ;)

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46 minutes ago, klutched said:

I'm not sure, send them a msg on fb. I think might be slightly cheaper than spool. My motor came with kulig billet mains and I just put a spool girdle on it. Kulig designed and makes all the kits for Spool. You want to dowl the main caps as well which makes them not walk around then the girdle ties them all together for extra strength. 

I'm a bit sad I didn't half grout fill my block especially with the power I'm chasing. I wonder if a brace is needed for >1000hp if you're grout filling. Would splitting a bore would be more from cylinder pressure and temps more than the block twisting and front diff?

If block twisting and front diff then I would defs brace it, if pressures and temps then I reckon grout will be fine. Maybe just brace it and turn it up ;)

Interesting. My motor is apart. Headgasket was perfect. Bearings are perfect. Caps are perfect. No evidence of movement.

Grouting will help yes. I'm only considering brace as an insurance policy. If i call platinum or spool about a brace they will be trying to sell me a brace hence I want to know, have people used them or have people cracked blocks using braces. Even pm if you don't want to say in public lol

Edited by WantGTR
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14 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

 

Interesting. My motor is apart. Headgasket was perfect. Bearings are perfect. Caps are perfect. No evidence of movement.

Grouting will help yes. I'm only considering brace as an insurance policy. If i call platinum or spool about a brace they will be trying to sell me a brace hence I want to know, have people used them or have people cracked blocks using braces. Even pm if you don't want to say in public lol

Dayum, maybe just too much power for the stock block. I've heard the spool option is a bit more expensive as you need to line bore/hone billet caps which is about $300 on its own. But they have big power RBs running this setup and RIPS setup is similar as well, all proven. 

PRP is like 1600, spool youre looking at 2200 plus machining for both of them. Saying you have billet mains sounds way cooler though ?

I think the grout will strengthen it to a certain extent for all of the possible causes and the girdle will eliminate possibilities from diff twisting/cracking the block. 

Just do it and be done with it incase the grout doesn't stand up to the abuse.

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I say if your going to the effort of building again just do the brace for piece of mind 

will keep everything ridgid and stop block twist, even though it will be grout filled I would still do it and be done  

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Want, did they x ray the block before putting it together? Did it show up anything?

On topic, I have done quite a bit of research into block braces, I’ve spoken to PRP and RIPS both obviously recommend their products. The RIPS brace incorporates girdle and billet main caps where as the PRP is just the brace and you use the standard girdle and mains caps.

There was some talk of the billet main caps failing but when speaking to Rob from RIPS he said he has never had an issue and is running 1800+hp . Should also note when I spoke to him it was in reference to RB30 bottom ends.

I’m surprised yours failed so quickly, do you know what size pistons you were using?

Did you go 86.5 or did you have to go 87?

I would say go the PRP brace and 1/2 grout fill.

I want to brace mine but after speaking to a few shops I’m going to leave it, the motor needs to be torn down to do it and if I’m going to do that then I’m going a nitto 3.2 stroker kit, you can pick up rb30 blocks for 300-$400 so I’m just going to slowly build a short motor then if mine let’s go bolt my head and sump to it.

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6 hours ago, Deano 1 said:

its not like its gunna make the block weaker..... if you've got the cash, buy one. 

This is true lol

1 hour ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Want, did they x ray the block before putting it together? Did it show up anything?

On topic, I have done quite a bit of research into block braces, I’ve spoken to PRP and RIPS both obviously recommend their products. The RIPS brace incorporates girdle and billet main caps where as the PRP is just the brace and you use the standard girdle and mains caps.

There was some talk of the billet main caps failing but when speaking to Rob from RIPS he said he has never had an issue and is running 1800+hp . Should also note when I spoke to him it was in reference to RB30 bottom ends.

I’m surprised yours failed so quickly, do you know what size pistons you were using?

Did you go 86.5 or did you have to go 87?

I would say go the PRP brace and 1/2 grout fill.

I want to brace mine but after speaking to a few shops I’m going to leave it, the motor needs to be torn down to do it and if I’m going to do that then I’m going a nitto 3.2 stroker kit, you can pick up rb30 blocks for 300-$400 so I’m just going to slowly build a short motor then if mine let’s go bolt my head and sump to it.

Build was perfect. Car ran beautifully right up until it split a bore. Upon tearing down engine all components were perfect. The only thing that failed was the stock nissan block lol. Pistons are 86.5.

As others have said in the thread. The prp brace isn't bolt on. It requires machining. They are releasing a new one piece girdle/brace. 

As @Deano 1 said, it can't hurt lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

yep that is right.
The PRP brace needs the block to be machined and holes drilled.

I'm also in the same position, motor is fully assembled sitting in my bedroom. 
I'm kicking my self that i didn't go with a PRP brace, i thinking i should half grout fill it.

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16 hours ago, GRKGTR said:

Wait for the one piece PRP girdle w/main caps..

If testing goes good then they will be selling like hot cakes.

They arent available for purchase as yet. i want to get the car back on the road asap lol

41 minutes ago, r34unit said:

yep that is right.
The PRP brace needs the block to be machined and holes drilled.

I'm also in the same position, motor is fully assembled sitting in my bedroom. 
I'm kicking my self that i didn't go with a PRP brace, i thinking i should half grout fill it.

if you have a rwd i dare say you will be fine. its not like you have a front diff attached to the bottom f your motor.

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1 hour ago, WantGTR said:

They arent available for purchase as yet. i want to get the car back on the road asap lol

if you have a rwd i dare say you will be fine. its not like you have a front diff attached to the bottom f your motor.

I'm testing the first one (for RB26) so watch this space.

We are almost finished just waiting on tunnel boring etc.

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On 10/5/2018 at 6:50 PM, WantGTR said:

How much is the kulig kit? I understand the kulig kit comes with caps as well.

Turns out I've split a bore. Engine is out and considering my options. N1 blocks are too expensive. I am using another 26 block and it will be half grout filled. I don't know if I should buy a brace......

btw have you thought about using an RB25 awd block?

Cheaper and most probably stronger too

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19 hours ago, GRKGTR said:

800 reliably lol

good luck with that lol

16 hours ago, GRKGTR said:

btw have you thought about using an RB25 awd block?

Cheaper and most probably stronger too

i have heard these rumors but what is the actual evidence that it is superior?

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