Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

20 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

What's your best time at Wakefield?

Look, I've done the maths & I'll be running sub 1.04's.

But my best is a 1.15 in a stock S15 on warmup lap, previous night was rain....

After my 4th warmup lap I flew past the grandstand like Orido on the Gunsai Touge.... was all set for a 1.12, got onto the straight flat throttle all crossed up ,  then hit a patch of ice, spun and bounced over the ripple strip. Threw the alignment out so I was fighting the steering wheel for the rest of the day.

 

9 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Or time slip down the 1/4

Get some runs on the board before running your mouth and always remember there will always be someone quicker.

He's too scared to run it down the quarter. He broke a twin plate trying to show off, how's he going to be able to launch it at the drags? 

  • Haha 1
14 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

He's too scared to run it down the quarter. He broke a twin plate trying to show off, how's he going to be able to launch it at the drags? 

It wasn't enough clutch for how much torque the car is making.

 

24 minutes ago, BakemonoRicer said:

It wasn't enough clutch for how much torque the car is making.

 

Benny.

Come on man. Im not going to jump on the band wagon here but I’m going to pull you up on this.

You killed it in Bondi. How do you bin a coppermix with 260 kw?

My coppermix lasted 10 years with almost twice the power and still was only 50% done. You killed it in 3 months.

Facts.

13 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

Benny.

Come on man. Im not going to jump on the band wagon here but I’m going to pull you up on this.

You killed it in Bondi. How do you bin a coppermix with 260 kw?

My coppermix lasted 10 years with almost twice the power and still was only 50% done. You killed it in 3 months.

Facts.

The friction material blew itself to pieces.

It was a reused unit & boost controller reads 729ps. 

So I don't know, either user error or it was already on its last legs.

16 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Have you been tested?

Bit of a weird question but not since I got back from Chile & Brasil, I was in completely in the mix over there with the latinas.

1 minute ago, BakemonoRicer said:

Bit of a weird question but not since I got back from Chile & Brasil, I was in completely in the mix over there with the latinas.

He's not talking about STDs...

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
1 minute ago, BakemonoRicer said:

The friction material blew itself to pieces.

It was a reused unit & boost controller reads 729ps. 

So I don't know, either user error or it was already on its last legs

Friction material doesn't "Blow itself to pieces". You were slipping the f**k out of it, either attempting to launch it, or trying to do burnouts.

Boost controllers don't measure power either...

41 minutes ago, BakemonoRicer said:

Are you asking that because you were biting the pillow last night?

You are A fantastic type of special. Top thread will read again.

  • Like 1

You guys have been having fun lol

Benny, I'm fairly convinced you're somewhere on the spectrum so I'm just going to keep that in mind moving forward and do my best to offer genuine advice where I can, what you do with it is up to you.

Please try and keep in mind when replying to some of these comments, pretty much everyone here has had either a faster or more powerful car, a cleaner car,  or has achieved more on track/drags etc than you have so far. The advice offered comes from ample real world experience and to date you have achieved nothing of merit so it would be in your best interest to try and take some of it on board. 

Best of luck with the build, I hope it goes well. Please be careful driving it, now and after power upgrades, it would be a shame to see the car written off or you hurt yourself. 
 

1 hour ago, ActionDan said:

You guys have been having fun lol

Benny, I'm fairly convinced you're somewhere on the spectrum so I'm just going to keep that in mind moving forward and do my best to offer genuine advice where I can, what you do with it is up to you.

Please try and keep in mind when replying to some of these comments, pretty much everyone here has had either a faster or more powerful car, a cleaner car,  or has achieved more on track/drags etc than you have so far. The advice offered comes from ample real world experience and to date you have achieved nothing of merit so it would be in your best interest to try and take some of it on board. 

Best of luck with the build, I hope it goes well. Please be careful driving it, now and after power upgrades, it would be a shame to see the car written off or you hurt yourself. 
 

Has had? The past doesn’t count Dan, neither does being a has-been! Where’s your GTR mate?

If having tigers blood puts me on the spectrum, absolutely, I’m a thaumaturge pal & the sooner I EFR this lead sled, the sooner Ill be shutting all you player haters up. This is an all out “DON” build how many times do I have to say it. Can’t wait to post my Dash 7s dyno graph, now that I’ve got the right fruit to make an easy 340-350awkw.

-7s wont last long at that power, if they actually make it without a dodgy dyno setup. That's well outside of the good efficiency islands for -7s and will over speed the compressor. You can look that info up yourself, a bit of simple math will show you the facts. 

Please keep in mind that if the comp wheels go, there's a genuine risk of ingesting ceramic dust/bits into the engine and lunching the bottom end. 

Should be OK for hits on the street, but best not to load the car up for long periods (say on a race track or hot lapping it at the drags). Some additional engine bay cooling can help too, the rear turbo is at the greatest risk. 

I assume that being an all out DON build, you will be removing the baby 2.6L with stock rods for something good anyway, but would be better if you can remove it in tact and get some good money for it for the proper engine. 


 

  • Like 1

Well under what you will need for a DON mega build. Stock rods and more importantly the tiny stock rod bolts wont handle Wangan levels of power or revs.

Big twin scroll turbo = big torque which will hurt the rod itself (bend/snap).
Big revs, Wangan style, will stretch the little stock rod bolts and then all sorts of bad stuff happens. 

There is no magic number for when this will happen. Should be fine on -7s/-9s with your tide me over setup but people have run into issues even using dinosaur -5s so you will be well beyond that point even with basic medium size 8374 or something similar. 

For the turbo size/power you're going to need for a DON mega build, you really need a 3L at a minimum with good rods/rod bolts. 

Even in my little SR, I've gone Nitto I Beams and ARP CA625+ rod bolts and my power and rev goals are much lower than yours. That combination was under 2k landed, so nothing in the grand scheme of a mega build.  



 

Hmm - so the next step I really need a built bottom end. Although it seems a lot of people get away with a completely stock bottom end for 500kw...

2.6 or 2.8L? Which will feel scarier? I’d have to redo the whole motor I think as it has a HKS Step 2 head system but the piggaz ran into issues with Valve float using the same I believe....sigh

A DON mega build is going to be well over 500kw though, there's plenty of 500kw GT-Rs so to smash them hard you will really need  much more and a 2.6 with stock rods just wont take it. Even PJs little SR powered S13 is making 1000hp and it's only a 4 cylinder. 

You can re-use your head on a 3L+ block, doesn't take much work to fit it. Don't bother with 2.8L, if you're already spending the coin to do it properly, might as well get as much capacity as you can to feed a monster turbo. 

The RIPS guys in NZ make some nice 3L strokers (3.2 and 3.4L) and sell them as a complete bottom end or long block, although if you're going DON spec you'd be best giving them a call and having them make you something custom. SPOOL make some stroker kits, but they're off the shelf kits so might be a bit basic for this build. 

I'm sure TRP would be happy to spec up a decent bottom end , You can also work with Maatouks or CRD, both of which are known for big HP drag spec GT-Rs and I'm sure they'd be happy to be involved in a mega build, neither of which are running a motor with a 2 in the start of its litre size. 

This year might be a bit soon given you will need an engine build to dominate, but maybe 2020 would be the go to take the completed car out and show everyone what a DON build is really capable of? http://motivedvd.com/motive/drag_battle_and_gt-r_challenge/




 

Hummm, I really do prefer the sound of a 26/28 bottom end....

Piggaz car acceleration is like back to the future so I can see 2 options, an 8474 or the mack daddy 9280. I’m just not sure if the 9280 is a good idea simply because I’d probably start breaking things.....and even the thought of any more power than an 8374 Is a bit frightening 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...