Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 07/07/2020 at 1:37 PM, oktaytrz said:

Update

Getting Haltech Elite 2000 instead of the Platinum Pro. 

this car is costing a looooot more than my expectations ?

Whatever you first “budgeted”, ATLEAST double it to begin with.

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
On 11/07/2020 at 7:12 AM, Piggaz said:

Whatever you first “budgeted”, ATLEAST double it to begin with.

 

On 11/07/2020 at 5:13 PM, Shyboy said:

Welcome to the rabbit hole ?

I'm going to have to agree with the statements above ?

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE: 

-Cams went in this week and valve clearances etc all checked.

-Ordered Gates Racing Timing Belt

-Painted the brake booster and all other small bits and pieces - will upload pics soon. 

-Engine is scheduled to go back in by end of next week (hopefully) lol

 

Am thinking of buying Tuff engine mounts. would appreciate any feedback on these before I purchase it. 

http://musclegarage.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=117

On 23/07/2020 at 2:41 PM, oktaytrz said:

 

Am thinking of buying Tuff engine mounts. would appreciate any feedback on these before I purchase it. 

http://musclegarage.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=117

broke nismo ones frequently, tuff mounts are the way to go

On 25/07/2020 at 12:41 PM, hattori hanzo said:

broke nismo ones frequently, tuff mounts are the way to go

Purchased the Tuff mounts :)

I have a question for everyone here..

Haltech Elite 2000 vs Link G4 Fury plug in.

What are the differences, advantages and disadvantages? there's a significant price difference between the two.

 

I have not used a Haltech,

 

However have a Link G4+

 

I find the functionality and interface easy for myself to setup different things i.e. launch control adjust rev limits and boost by gear.

Logging is comprehensive and easy to use / download / analyse.

 

Ultimately depends who is tuning your car and what they want to use.

  • Thanks 1
42 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

I have not used a Haltech,

 

 

 

However have a Link G4+

 

 

 

I find the functionality and interface easy for myself to setup different things i.e. launch control adjust rev limits and boost by gear.

 

Logging is comprehensive and easy to use / download / analyse.

 

 

 

Ultimately depends who is tuning your car and what they want to use.

 

Who is your tuner mate if you don’t mind me asking?

3 hours ago, oktaytrz said:

Who is your tuner mate if you don’t mind me asking?

Rob @ SSC

He isn't a very big shop, but very thorough looks after a few targa guys.

Probably need to update my SAU build thread, will get to it

  • Like 1

UPDATE:

Tuff engine mounts arrived today. Will be dropping the gates timing belt to the mechanics shop today or tomorrow!

The engine should be going in this week ? more photos to follow later this week. 

Started polishing the exhaust. Still have heaps to do and will have to grind the welding joint to make it look half decent. 

 

On 27/07/2020 at 8:52 AM, oktaytrz said:

Purchased the Tuff mounts :)

I have a question for everyone here..

Haltech Elite 2000 vs Link G4 Fury plug in.

What are the differences, advantages and disadvantages? there's a significant price difference between the two.

 

 

The Fury isn't a plug-in, the plug-in is equivalent to the G4+ Xtreme (which is basically the same as the Fury but doesn't have onboard wideband control). 

 

In all honesty, comparing ECU's can get a bit confusing at face value. You need to know what you want from the ECU. If you need specific functions like knock control, launch control, traction control, wideband control, data logging, etc, then you can look at the ECU's capabilities and pick one. This is really for guys using their car for motorsport, because that is really the only situation where you might be thinking "ok, I could shave a bit of time off if my ECU could do X or Y". For a street car, where you just want good resolution to have accurate control of the engine and perhaps some safety features, then pretty much all modern ECU's are going to be able to do it for you. This is where the advice of 'ask your tuner what he recommends' becomes pretty valid, because if your tuner for any reason feels more comfortable tuning a Haltech vs a Link or vise versa, then go with that suggestion because at the end of the day your ECU is only going to do what the guy with the laptop tells it to do. If your tuner says "whatever you like, we can tune anything", which most of them will, then pick based on your budget. Plug-ins are going to be miles cheaper to setup compared to a full wire-in, so take that into account.

 

My biggest piece of advice would be pay attention to how many inputs/outputs your ECU gives you. Most people will chew up AVI's very very quickly, so you want as many of those as you can get to suit your budget. 

  • Like 1
22 minutes ago, Unzipped Composites said:

 

The Fury isn't a plug-in, the plug-in is equivalent to the G4+ Xtreme (which is basically the same as the Fury but doesn't have onboard wideband control). 

 

In all honesty, comparing ECU's can get a bit confusing at face value. You need to know what you want from the ECU. If you need specific functions like knock control, launch control, traction control, wideband control, data logging, etc, then you can look at the ECU's capabilities and pick one. This is really for guys using their car for motorsport, because that is really the only situation where you might be thinking "ok, I could shave a bit of time off if my ECU could do X or Y". For a street car, where you just want good resolution to have accurate control of the engine and perhaps some safety features, then pretty much all modern ECU's are going to be able to do it for you. This is where the advice of 'ask your tuner what he recommends' becomes pretty valid, because if your tuner for any reason feels more comfortable tuning a Haltech vs a Link or vise versa, then go with that suggestion because at the end of the day your ECU is only going to do what the guy with the laptop tells it to do. If your tuner says "whatever you like, we can tune anything", which most of them will, then pick based on your budget. Plug-ins are going to be miles cheaper to setup compared to a full wire-in, so take that into account.

 

My biggest piece of advice would be pay attention to how many inputs/outputs your ECU gives you. Most people will chew up AVI's very very quickly, so you want as many of those as you can get to suit your budget. 

Thanks for the info mate. I think I've made up my mind and going with the Haltech Elite 2000.. My tuner also recommended either Elite 2000 or 2500. 

 

  • 4 weeks later...

UPDATE:

The Engine is in!!

Next in line is, sort out all the wiring, install the cooler, radiator etc etc and plumbing. 

After that, we need to sort out the fuel system and were good to go.

 

 

IMG_3505.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Busy weekend for the boys in WA as everyones getting ready for Powercruise this weekend.

Hopefully more progress photos will come next week. 

Current state as per below. Still need to order the fuel system, fittings etc etc. 

1.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...