Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello every,

Cool site here.

Ive read through lots of stuff here, older stuff and have some questions.

I am going to buy a R32 GTST or a GTR if I have the money.

 

If I get a R32 GTST and dont do the RB25 swap, with the stuff thats out today,{turbos, etc} is there any way to make the GTST with 400-450 hp and be responsive on the street so Civic Type R's and 370's arent blowing by me?

If I get a R32 GTR, is there any way to make a good 500-600 hp and have decent torque for the street?

 

Edited by Yoshiii
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/480467-questions-about-r32-gtst-and-gtr/
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

T51r is the answer to all your questions 

Will check it out

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

T88 turbo, journal bearing with open scroll.

Will check it out

6 hours ago, mlr said:

 

Yes, there we go 

 

Thank you for the inputs.

I will check these out.

 

I need to buy the car first but want to research now.  

 

RB 20's are liked in the states.   But I keep reading that RB25's are better for the 32.

 

 

  • Haha 1
12 hours ago, Matty George said:

Just need to upgrade hot side for GTR and ECU upgrade. Simple. Won’t get 500 but will be fun enough.

Not too hard I guess.  Do you mean to upgrade the exhaust?  As long as it will perform well.

If your in 'merica, drop a crate LS in the R32 GTST.

Or at least a RB25.

Personally, the only money I would spend on a RB20 would be to service it.

If you want fast, the RB20 is a poor starting point.

Unless you want original, then, just service it and don't race anything faster than a Toyota Yaris.

If you don't use a crate LS, send one to me, thanks....

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...