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I run a 2way full time. All comes down to have you like your set up to be. I’m a little happy on the track with front brake bias high and steer with the rear. If you don’t like the rear being a little loose on corner exit just run a stock lsd and you will be fine

Time attack/track work I would personally go with a 1/1.5 way only.

I have a 2 way KAAZ LSD and I can say that driving my friend's car with a 1.5 way around a technical track, it's actually faster than mine with a 2 way.

The thing is, all 1 ways, 2 ways, 1.5 ways etc are all 2 ways, just with different ramp angles.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole, go asking for ramp rate specs on diffs. Nismo actually only make a 1 way and a 2 way diff.

I'd wager that's the same for most manufacturers.

The "1.5 way" people are talking about is likely the 1 way, i.e the 45/90 ramp diff. (45 accel, 90 decel). My old "2 way" diff was also a 'real' 1.5 way with ramp angles of about 45/60.

Are other 2 ways true 45/45 '2 way' diffs? You'd have to ask. As for what is best... well, it really depends a lot of your driving style.

Depends on which cam is selected.

kaaz-adv-5-711x400.jpg?resize=711%2C400&+

image.png.a5e406d3f3105de9383648936262b26e.png

 

I definitely can say my 2 way KAAZ looks like this (actual photo of my diff)

image.thumb.png.a2c438551d755822b16e52161fda727e.png

 

and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)

image.png.e546888de035199f8d9a58ce4c9c772a.png

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5

For what it is worth the Nismo 1.5 way I have is so fkn tight it may as well be a two way.  Shits me to tears it does. Clunkety clunk clunk.

It isn't just the ramp angle that is key here.  The amount of preload on the clutch packs before you add the motors torque is also important.  Get much of that and the diff will be an annoying clunkfest.

@admS15That looks like a 1.5 way. Assymetric ramp angles.

What djr said is correct. The ramps define how much of the locking power is applied on accel and decel, (ie 1, 1.5 or 2 way) and the rest of the diff (the number of clutch plates, springs etc) in the mechanism define the breakaway torque. You can make a 2-way diff with low breakaway torque that will behave nicely without clunking, but it will open up earlier than you might like. Or you can make one that might as well be welded. Cusco have a range of different diffs that cover that span and some even offer adjustment of how tighjt they are.

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)

image.png.e546888de035199f8d9a58ce4c9c772a.png

 

This is a 1 way 😛

Good example though! 😛

but yes when selecting a diff.. "1 way" or "1.5 way" or "2 way" is very much like "Stage 1 turbo". There's not really enough information there.

I guess they key point is, you don't want/need a diff that locks the wheels together under deceleration as that promotes understeer on turn in. If you are buying, preference should be 1 > 1.5 > 2.

Having said that the GTR (non 33 vspec) factory diff is a mechanical 2 way and can be readily shimmed for the level of carpark clunking you want, That's all we use in the race car and it is a good thing, thanks Nissan.

49 minutes ago, ERO54N said:

Hey guys,

Just wondering what the benefits of an open diff are when compared to any sort of LSD on track? Genuine question.

 

When you've binned your car and one wheel/hub is completely seized but you want to try drive it back to the pits.

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1

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