One piece drive shaft

[Predator1]

So I finally bolted this puppy on my recent trip back home:

https://www.alphaomegaracing.com/product/monstar-tailshaft/

I noticed on a long drive through traffic, I started getting some vibration on the motorway around 140+ (after traffic). I'm guessing it expands ever so slightly once heated up closing up clearances.

We swapped back to the oem drive shaft and no vibration. 

Anyone else running similar drive shaft? Is there any way to get rid of the vibration? I'm already running whiteline subframe bushes and Nismo rear diff bushes.

Def seemed to be more rev happy and responsive with the 1 piece though!

[Duncan]

Really common issue with 1 piece aftermarket tail shafts, I'd start with getting the balancing checked by someone else

[r32-25t]

Another possible reason is most manufacturers install center bearings because of the design of the car the tail shaft requires a bend in it to avoid binding 

[Predator1]

Thanks guys. I think I'll just leave it, because I dont have alot of time. Maybe before I fly back, I'll stick it back on.

Any ideas how much power difference it makes? I swear it feels different.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 hours ago, Predator1 said:

Any ideas how much power difference it makes?

Highly doubt it, and you're making like 10x the power of your average Toyota 86 or Honda shit box, so light weight or not, you're not really going to notice.

[Predator1]

4 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Highly doubt it, and you're making like 10x the power of your average Toyota 86 or Honda shit box, so light weight or not, you're not really going to notice.

Bruh, mines stock occifer, honest!

[The Bogan]

Have a Google IRT max tail shaft speed

What is your tail shaft speed?

Calculations are based off tail shaft speed (RPM), length, material type, material thickness and diameter

Balancing should be done at a higher rpm than your average steet car if your turning high rpm

Phasing needs to be correct

And uni angle should be in spec, no uni angle is bad, to much angle is bad, uni joints apparently like a little angle to help their internal bearings spin, some say rule of thumb is between 0.5° and 1.5° for high rpm

This is why jacked up really high 4x4's do uni's

I had issues with my 2 piece when I lowered my K-frame by only 10mm, it basically kept chewing out the couplers because the alignment was out of spec

Like you it developed high speed vibration, started about 90 mph, and was like a earth quake at 124 mph

I got my alignment right, rebuilt/rebalanced the tail shaft, and now it's good to go

2 piece tail shafts have alot of advantages over a 1 piece when you look deep, especially on a street car

 

[hardsteppa]

On 21/12/2023 at 10:31 PM, Predator1 said:

So I finally bolted this puppy on my recent trip back home:

https://www.alphaomegaracing.com/product/monstar-tailshaft/

I noticed on a long drive through traffic, I started getting some vibration on the motorway around 140+ (after traffic). I'm guessing it expands ever so slightly once heated up closing up clearances.

We swapped back to the oem drive shaft and no vibration. 

Anyone else running similar drive shaft? Is there any way to get rid of the vibration? I'm already running whiteline subframe bushes and Nismo rear diff bushes.

Def seemed to be more rev happy and responsive with the 1 piece though!

Thanks for posting your experience, I was looking at getting one of these. Though, still not sure if the money would be better spent just getting the OEM shaft overhauled.

[Predator1]

On 23/12/2023 at 10:33 AM, The Bogan said:

Have a Google IRT max tail shaft speed

What is your tail shaft speed?

Calculations are based off tail shaft speed (RPM), length, material type, material thickness and diameter

Balancing should be done at a higher rpm than your average steet car if your turning high rpm

Phasing needs to be correct

And uni angle should be in spec, no uni angle is bad, to much angle is bad, uni joints apparently like a little angle to help their internal bearings spin, some say rule of thumb is between 0.5° and 1.5° for high rpm

This is why jacked up really high 4x4's do uni's

I had issues with my 2 piece when I lowered my K-frame by only 10mm, it basically kept chewing out the couplers because the alignment was out of spec

Like you it developed high speed vibration, started about 90 mph, and was like a earth quake at 124 mph

I got my alignment right, rebuilt/rebalanced the tail shaft, and now it's good to go

2 piece tail shafts have alot of advantages over a 1 piece when you look deep, especially on a street car

 

Thank you, I've literally copied that and will ask my workshop. 

I dont know my tailshaft speed, I would assume the speed would match the oem shaft, as it would depend on my gear ratios?

Was that an expensive exercise having it rebuilt? How long did it take?

In terms of max tailshaft RPM. I'm not sure either. I bought it as I saw the Xtreme GTR was running it. I believe he also runs an Albins with the same ratios, and he revs it to 10k IIRC.

[Predator1]

22 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

Thanks for posting your experience, I was looking at getting one of these. Though, still not sure if the money would be better spent just getting the OEM shaft overhauled.

I definitely felt the engine to be more free revving with the alpha omega tail shaft. The vibrations were def the shaft, because last week, we swapped it back to my oem shaft, and the vibrations are gone... and I noticed the engine wasnt as rev happy as before(I'm super sensitive).

One thing I just realised was that when I used LC to launch with the OEM shaft, it bogged down very bad. The last launch I did with the 1 piece shaft, it didnt bog at all. I'll upload some videos soon. The launch strategy was IDENTICAL.. I tried to pre-load the drivetrain, then let it out. 

[Predator1]

 

[The Bogan]

1 hour ago, Predator1 said:

Thank you, I've literally copied that and will ask my workshop. 

I dont know my tailshaft speed, I would assume the speed would match the oem shaft, as it would depend on my gear ratios?

Was that an expensive exercise having it rebuilt? How long did it take?

In terms of max tailshaft RPM. I'm not sure either. I bought it as I saw the Xtreme GTR was running it. I believe he also runs an Albins with the same ratios, and he revs it to 10k IIRC.

I booked it so it was less than a 1 day affair to drop it off, for them to pull it apart, rebuild and balance it, it was only a hour or so later when they rang to say it was ready for pickup 

I think it was around $800????, that also included the new, Hardy Spicer uni's, couplers and centre bearing

Did you get the exact same as the Xtreme GTR, as in material, wall thickness and diameter

What was done, if anything, to the Xtreme GTR IRT the uni angles?

[Predator1]

2 hours ago, The Bogan said:

I booked it so it was less than a 1 day affair to drop it off, for them to pull it apart, rebuild and balance it, it was only a hour or so later when they rang to say it was ready for pickup 

I think it was around $800????, that also included the new, Hardy Spicer uni's, couplers and centre bearing

Did you get the exact same as the Xtreme GTR, as in material, wall thickness and diameter

What was done, if anything, to the Xtreme GTR IRT the uni angles?

Thats a bit pricey haha, but let me see. I'll try to find someone local here if they can check and balance it.

Re Xtreme - I have no idea. I just know they were running one from their website and facebook. 

I'll swap the tailshaft out tomorrow and see how it goes.

[GTSBoy]

I spent >$1K at Spicers getting my 2-piece rebuilt with replaceable unis. It's just the cost of doing Skyline business these days.

[Rusty Nuts]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

I spent >$1K at Spicers getting my 2-piece rebuilt with replaceable unis. It's just the cost of doing Skyline business these days.

Hardy Spicer, Eagle Farm charged me $597 for two piece rebuild as above including pickup and delivery from my workshop ya got ripped.

[GTSBoy]

That's the price of dealing with the (unts in SA. They suck here now.

[The Bogan]

15 hours ago, Predator1 said:

Thats a bit pricey haha, but let me see. I'll try to find someone local here if they can check and balance it.

Re Xtreme - I have no idea. I just know they were running one from their website and facebook. 

I'll swap the tailshaft out tomorrow and see how it goes.

When you take into consideration the 2 couplers, and the centre bearing, which I priced up the OEM spec Hardey Spicer units at Repco for around $500(ish) for the 3 items, and whatever the uni cost, I didn't think the price was overboard for them to supply, strip, rebuild with new parts, balance and paint

[ChrisW434]

I have an AlphaOmega 1piece tailshaft in my 34 GTT, no issues here. Granted, i havent spent much time going 140+ though yet. Still, love it

[TurboTapin]

Have you verified your driveshaft uni angle? With my single piece driveshaft on an R32, angle between trans and diff was far from ideal. I had to drop the engine a bit (Slotted out engine mounts) to get proper angle of -2/+2 between the two.

Edited December 26, 2023 by TurboTapin

[Predator1]

10 hours ago, ChrisW434 said:

I have an AlphaOmega 1piece tailshaft in my 34 GTT, no issues here. Granted, i havent spent much time going 140+ though yet. Still, love it

Good to hear - Have you noticed any vibrations at all when the shaft is hot? i mean after sitting through like 40-50 mins of traffic? 

2 hours ago, TurboTapin said:

Have you verified your driveshaft uni angle? With my single piece driveshaft on an R32, angle between trans and diff was far from ideal. I had to drop the engine a bit (Slotted out engine mounts) to get proper angle of -2/+2 between the two.

Nope. We had to space the box down by couple of mm too. But issue only seems to happen when the shaft gets hot. I mean its not an issue, but just vibrations. Def can live with, I'm just a picky cnut.

Edited December 26, 2023 by Predator1