Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your question really depends on what you mean by "motorsport". Whether they are competitive or not will depend entirely on the ruleset. WTAC has some pretty no-holds-barred rules where lightness and simplicity can be a benefit. The R35 is nether of those things.

Pick another competition with some other ruleset, and R35 will smash the others. Pick another, and something else will do it.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Your question really depends on what you mean by "motorsport". Whether they are competitive or not will depend entirely on the ruleset. WTAC has some pretty no-holds-barred rules where lightness and simplicity can be a benefit. The R35 is nether of those things.

Pick another competition with some other ruleset, and R35 will smash the others. Pick another, and something else will do it.

So essentially the s/r chassis is better than anything else, unless they make rules against them 😎

Edited by Blakeo

No?

The WTAC rules heavily favour certain JDM manufacturers. Plus, in the world of time attack, these are also the platforms that guys 20 years ago built and built experience from, now that they have hundreds and thousands of dollars of sponsorships and junk behind them and have a ton of R&D.

From another continent we may see things like Lotus Elise/Exige/Porsche GTX and the Corvette platform smash things. The C6 at WTAC had a 160KG weight penalty. Have a look at Gridlife USA where they have a Ford GT absolutely massacring everything.
 

If you look at Clubsprint (which is still a sponsored class) - but the most "bang for buck", not many Nissans there at all. In a field of 39, there was a 350Z in 17th and a R32 GTR in 22nd.

9 hours ago, Blakeo said:

So essentially the s/r chassis is better than anything else, unless they make rules against them

How to tell me you haven't raced a S or R chassis without telling me you haven't raced a S or R chassis.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, r32-25t said:

The best Motorsport chassis would have to be pretty much any Porsche 911 

I guess that could be debated too...

Per se against an F1 car?

But then, are we just wanting the best all rounder, hence then we need something that could do rally, in dirt and snow, so the F1 car is gone again...

 

So many variables before you can find "the best".

 

That said, I'd love me a Porsche GT3...

Bang for buck, simplicity and heaps of aftermarket support I would be looking at what BYP are doing with civics and integras.

Really it all depends on what class or what type of Motorsport you are looking to do and also your budget.

Budget to one person might completely different to another 

  • Like 1

Best bang for buck at the moment would be a 86/brz.

Good chassis,  plenty of aftermarket support and parts everywhere.

 

I just picked one up with some quality gear and it drives better than my old 180sx. 

 

Also depending on what your doing and budget. 

An a90 supra is my pick if want to spend more. Great chassis, solid motor, gearbox is good. Development potential is crazy. They are doing well in prod sport and time attack.

All the old jdm stuff needs alot of work as most of it all bent and over priced.

  • Like 4

Yeah the question is really too broad, it depends what you want to do with it.

R and S chassis are still good for club racing, but I'm retiring my 32 GTR from rally because I just can't get hold of body parts (at any price) if a repair is needed.  It is still outright competitive but not practical any more

  • 2 weeks later...

I'll leave this here

Owned it for 5 days, changed alignment and its .7 of a second slower than my 180sx up Noosa hill climb.

Mca reds, cusco diff and short ratio, e85, some gktech arms, endless pads and Nankang CRS Tyres. 

20241020_163921.thumb.jpg.86f543486452f69f9e7ed694a29991e6.jpg

I beat a gt3 porsche with an experienced targa driver too.

  • Like 4
8 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

I'll leave this here

Owned it for 5 days, changed alignment and its .7 of a second slower than my 180sx up Noosa hill climb.

Mca reds, cusco diff and short ratio, e85, some gktech arms, endless pads and Nankang CRS Tyres. 

20241020_163921.thumb.jpg.86f543486452f69f9e7ed694a29991e6.jpg

I beat a gt3 porsche with an experienced targa driver too.

There is 100% no denying, a car that doesn't have a lot of power, but has grip, and brakes, can put a lot of cars to shame, especially as you can push them so aggressively, without fear of all the power putting you in the trees.

When you're having to dance around the power, especially at a track you don't get much opportunity to go over and over and over. Lower powered cars that make up for it on the limit for grip are GREAT!

 

IMO, unless you're building a car to race a specific class, the best car for motorsport, is the one you have, and can afford! (Or a cheap car, like a Swift, or Excel, or Corolla)! Then just go do laps and have fun!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...