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Hey! Thanks for that it great to meet you sorry wasnt for long was hetic Hope you enjoyed WTAC! Yeah we upped the rev limit in 5th gear and just wound that out rather than a shorter change to 6th and back to 5th again around T1 and wow it was screaming its little RB tatas off 😄 That arvo session I had to go out! I hadnt had a proper run since the morning session on Friday so was my only chance to go full send Theres a reason the top teams dont go out because the track was absolutely junk! I had to have a crack and my 1.31.1 prob wouldve been a low 1.30 in a morning session in fact I was up 1.2 sec on my 1.31.6 coming into T8 even then but the tyres literally went to mush Still managed a PB ad 6th in Open class not horrible for a guy that gets about 10 laps a year on SMP and only booked 3 hot laps The car is very good now But wow it was a hetic WTAC might do a run down just got home yesterday from 4 day drive back to Perth

2025 PRP GTR Festival - A Massive Thank You from SAU NSW! On behalf of SAU NSW, I want to extend a huge thank you to our incredible committee for all the hard work and dedication behind the scenes. You are the engine that keeps this club running smoothly! (hopefully an RB lol😆) To all our amazing volunteers who helped make the GTR Festival Sydney such a success, thank you for giving your time, energy and sacrificing your weekend sleep-ins. Your efforts did not go unnoticed and were absolutely appreciated by everyone. We also want to give a big shoutout to the workshops, trade stalls, and the awesome VIP's we connected with over the weekend. Your support means the world to us, and we’re so proud to be part of such a passionate automotive scene. We are looking forward to collaborating with you at our future events. SAU NSW had our marquee up for two full days at GTR Festival, packed with merchandise, a sizzling members BBQ, and a chance to chat with the committee, sign up, and check out some hot Skylines on display from our members. It was incredible seeing so many smiles and genuine conversations, that's what we're all about! SAU NSW is more than just a car club... we’re building a community where you can make friends, share stories, and talk about anything RB related or not. 📸 Please post any cool pics you took at the GTR Festival in this thread! 📸 To our current members, thank you for your ongoing loyalty, and to all our new members... welcome to the family! We’re beyond excited to have you on board! Please ensure you are involved as much as possible within the club, and make the most of our exciting upcoming events. Here’s to more future events, thrilling drives, chill meets and good feeds! Let’s keep building something special. 💪🚗💨 Matt Zoumpoulis, President SAU NSW

Hi all, I thought I'd put one of these references in here before but it seems I haven't - not sure how many people are actually using this place still but I feel like there are guys lurking about who might find this reference useful or interesting. A lot of the time people don't catch key details or even fully understand how compressor maps work - or don't even look at them and just go from heresay about deciding how different turbos may compare, but I've been putting together this table over the years as a quick reference to get a gauge of how certain compressors compare to cut down the time that can be wasted looking around aimlessly. * This relates purely to compressor flow, so won't necessarily reflect the outright capabilities of these turbos as the power potential also comes down to the turbine side. If you understand this, you should be able to use this 😃 * The inducer and exducer size listed are the mm of just the compressor wheel * The values under the "psi" headings are "lb/min airflow" and reflect the maximum airflow that compressor supports before it's efficiency dips under 65%, or it reaches it's maximum speed - whichever comes first. Any questions, or requests for other turbos which the compressor map is available for then let me know 🙂

Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this. Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds

it takes so long to get things done but ... they are nearly there and we hitting the track soon again So - at Perth Festival of Speed the car unfortunately had a decent off, wasnt me driving, wasnt the person drivings fault. Long story short car got sent very fast towards the wall without the control on throttle from the driver input and a disaster was averted but there was damage that needed to be fixed - carbon busted and alot of bent bits The splitter got munched and had to go back to get fixed - took a bit to get it there, fixed and back but got a surprise package when a new double element higher DF splitter came back - nice surprise ! and first person to have one At a car show I took the car too some punks stole one of my carbon indicator blanks and stomped on the other so had to get a new set of headlight / indicator combo from tops stage so got front fender vents as well to put in the order While all this was happening the new MCA golds turned up and did some fiddling around with those Put in the flappy paddle system and clutch lockout wiring/ system We have also put shorter gearing in top top it out at 300 kmph in 6th gear where previously I held 5th to 282 at SMP and 277 in Perth Looking for better control and faster acceleration I wasnt intending on doing pedal box I was managing with the brake master replacement system I had going on and adjusted std pedals but on applying the clutch switch to the old system we found the *insert technical word here * bar that goes from the pedal to the master was bent about 40 deg and about to snap = lucky find otherwise be a bad bad time - discussion was had about getting a custom bar built to withstand the load but in reality it was time making any suspension, wheel or anything adjustments to date has been a nightmare - aero off, adjust, check and repeat - time consuming and hard - short of going full airjack system we fashioned some external manual car lifts this will make life a million times easier All the bent framing, some intercooler pipes and other has been fixed and replaced and after 6 months I finally have the car back at home in my control so its get to work on it, set ride heights, wheel align and will start track testing again soon So ultimately other than a few flashy bits nothing actually looks likes its been done but in reality alot has. Typical We'll see how all this goes

Hi everyone, I've found some free time to write up my "build thread" which is 10% 'build' and 90% fixing problems of a skyline that has endured a lifetime of abuse. I will start with the backstory & get everyone up to speed. Ever since I was just a teenager in high school I have had a spot in my heart for the shape of an R32 rivaled only by the look of an S13, my mates & I all having overly ambitious dreams as one does about having the sickest car in the school carpark. Unfortunately I started my journey of cars down the path of the Silvia and after spending years of putting up with the underwhelming SR20 life I dipped my toes into the 1J Toyota pool for a small moment until my true compass brought me back to that incomplete dream of an R32. At this point the trawl through marketplace, gumtree, carsales etc. starts looking Aus wide for an affordable example in the current economy which was extremely barebones compared to the good old days of sub 10k cars everywhere. Out of the handful of cars in the budget at the time I settled on a 1992 R32 GTS-T that was located in Adelaide. It had caught my eyes as it was similar price to the others on the east coast and had been RB25DET NEO converted and an open door respray in a custom colour based off TH1. It was also a stand out to me because it already had some NSW registration left which saved me the hassle of getting it on the road in my state. As for mods I was told it was pretty stock other than the motor swap, a nistune to run it, and an unknown fuel pump. My first mistake was trusting the seller blindly that the car was in good condition in all aspects and decided to purchase the car unseen other than some walkaround videos & pictures as the flights down there were very expensive at the time. The price of getting it transported to my door from Adelaide from Sydney was surprisingly cheaper than the flights at the time. I was told the few issues it apparently had was only 1 speaker not working, some cracked or missing trims, and it had been rear ended at some point but had been all professionally repaired (this is all foreshadowing at this point). I paid for the car, and then booked the interstate transport. Now at this point save your criticism as I already know how stupid I sound in hindsight, this was a major lapse of judgement and I accept the problems that followed. I spent the next 2 weeks in a crazed excitement knowing I am finally the owner of an R32 & that it was on its way. I started preparing as when negotiating with the seller I opted out of the Lenso wheels as they aren't really my style & I wanted a set of genuine wheels, and the bucket seats in the car as I am 6ft5 and not the skinniest guy so I had my predictions that I wouldn't fit in them anyway. Due to this the car was put on a set of R33 stockies and some average condition R33 seats that he had laying around. While I waited for the car to arrive I went and picked up a pair of R32 seats and some R32 GTR wheels to fit nicely on it once it had arrived. Being the first time I had done anything like this or had a car transported interstate I had no clue how the logistics of it were, I chose my work as the delivery address assuming it would arrive at some point in the middle of the day. You can imagine my surprise when I wake up to a call from the truck at 5:30am telling me his about 20 minutes away. When I tell you that was the fastest drive to work I have ever done, I managed to catch up to the truck before it even got there. Spent the hours before work taking in the car and living my first experience with one, I had never even been inside one so I spent some time getting familiar with the interior before doing the seat swap. Here is my first proper photo of it as the sun rose in the background. I also noticed it had the switch for the electronic front lip which was a pleasant surprised but sadly upon looking it didn't actually have the lip or the motors or even any wiring behind the switch. As I swapped the seats, the extremely questionable history of the car started to show itself starting with some really dodgy seatbelt buckles that had been extended for some reason with horrendous welds. This was followed by me noticing the drivers side front was quite bent up to which the owner then decided to let me know it had been hit in the front at the same time as the rear end. It also had a pretty leaky power steering rack and the pump was screaming for its life. By now I was a little on edge but I had to get to work for the day, I sent the car down to my mechanic to get the fluids changed and a general check over as I started to question what I had got myself into. I packed the GTR wheels into the car to get put on while it was there as I ran out of time which was a struggle because the handle to release the fuel door/boot was non-existent and just had the end of the cable tied to a bolt. It wasn't much of a surprise when I got a call saying that it looked like the fluids hadn't been done in quite some time. Although that didn't come as a shock, it did catch me off guard when I was told he couldn't open the boot which had the wheels in which I just had open not long before. Mission #1 was to squeeze through the back panel and open the boot from the latch while loaded with a set of wheels which to my amazement he pulled off after a bit of a struggle to reveal there was nothing holding the cable mechanism in place where it sits at the fuel cap. After that dilemma was solved the mechanic did an inspection over the car while on the hoist with nothing too interesting being found other than the expected crushed frame rails. It seems to have had some bilstein shocks installed at some point and judging by the AWD sump that has been sealed up I suspect the NEO is out of a stagea. By the time I got the car back and was ready to have my first drive home in it I was still excited but now quite anxious with the car already. First stop was to the servo to get a nice fresh tank of fuel as I had no idea how long it may have been sitting around for before I bought it. It sat quite nicely on the GTR stockies I must say. Now my drive home from work is short only being a 15-20 minute commute so the chances of anything going wrong is quite small right? WRONG. As I go over a speed bump only 100m from home I start to smell the dreaded smell of electrical burning and my lights drop out and shortly after the car dies. I am in extreme panic at this point thinking the car is going to burn down on its first drive before I have even had a chance to insure it. I move to the bonnet as quick as I can and lift it up, and as I go to grab the bonnet prop my brain is in such a frenzy that it takes me a second to realise my hand is being burnt to a crisp. This is where I notice that there is no plastic clip for the bonnet stay and when I have gone over the speed bump it has knocked the stay onto the positive terminal of the battery welding itself there. Levering it off with a nearby stick I sat there for a few minutes making sure nothing was going to burn down while waiting for a mate to come jump start me. My main stress was that I could've absolutely cooked the ECU or any other electrics. I was relieved when the car started fine with jumper leads on it but it would die as soon as the headlights were turned on so I carefully limped it home with no lights and decided it was a tomorrow task. You can see here where the stand sat on the positive terminal. Thankfully with a new battery the car behaved and seemed healthy. It was pretty smooth sailing for a little while getting to enjoy dailying the car. Interior wise it was pretty much as the seller described except for the the lack of working speakers, the digital controls had no power, and the headunit would randomly turn off & on. I installed a quick release I had laying around from an old car to help with getting in & out of the car and a nice momo wheel. I bought some oem side skirts to match the rear pods that were on the car already, who said a skyline can't be a practical parts mover. Test fit looks good! Found a good deal on a GTR wing & boot that I couldn't turn down. At this point the skyline was being too good to me and had to throw the spanner in the works again. First incident was as I was coming off the motorway and heard a bang and an awful grinding noise. As I pull over down a side street to investigate I notice my whole exhaust has basically fallen off and is dragging on the ground. After waiting around to let it cool to the touch I managed to get it back on its hangers. Thinking it was a weird 1-off instance I didn't think much of it until it happened to me again a few days later to which I see this time the middle hanger has snapped in half and the rear hangers have snapped at the welds. I manage to get the car in to a shop to get the hangers welded and while there I notice that my intercooler has broken its brackets and was being held up only by the piping. Quickly got that sorted and got some thicker brackets out of steel plate to support it all. Just when you thought at this point the car might give me a break, I fill the car up on my way home from the fabricators shop and after I pay I walk back to a good portion of my liquid gold on the floor. I just shrug it off at this point in exhaustion and call it a job for another day. The car had other plans for me though as the next morning on my commute to work, I am halfway there when I notice I am struggling to shift gears. I get lucky with a run of no red lights to work and find some time on my lunch break to investigate the problem. The slave wasn't leaking and the master still had fluid so I was left confused until I contorted myself under the dash and noticed the whole pedal moving loosely side to side when pushed in. Upon pulling it out of the car I found it to be multiple snapped spot welds on the clutch pedal bracket and the actual face of the pedal that sits against the firewall had snapped in half. I jerry rigged it with nuts & bolts at the spot welds but I will need to come back to this in the future and replace with one of the strengthened nismo brackets available. I then got to enjoy the car for another 2 months of cruising and dailying it, peep the obnoxious fireballs it would shoot every shift on the dodgy tune that was on there. On a sunday drive in that period of working car, I was on my way home on the motorway when I heard a slapping noise on my front left to which I pulled over to find my indicator had ejected itself from the car. Nothing a bit of tape can fix lol. I then bought some smoked indicators but after I realised I didn't like the look I found some damaged series 1 indicators. I repaired the tabs with some cut up cards and they looked good to me. My next venture was the hunt for some wheels, I test fit my mates Work Equip Spinning that were tiny 15" and I wasn't sold on the small wheel look. I ended up finding a killer deal on some Rays Volk Racing Group C in 17x8.5 & 17x9 that had been rebuilt many years ago and not ran on a car. I am still yet to get these on the car as they require some specific adapters and shank style lug nuts but I think they will look awesome. At this point my 2 months of reliability had ran out and on a cruise with some friends I suddenly lost the ability to shift gears again and thankfully could get it home by taking main roads and not having to stop. This time my master cylinder was bone dry and the culprit was the clutch slave that had decided to let go. It was a quick and fairly easy fix, but in my luck bad things always come in waves. Only a few weeks later I am on my way home from World Time Attack when the car completely shuts off while coasting down a hill, I try crank it while I still have momentum but no luck. Thinking I might have killed the fuel pump from running it low or maybe killed a CAS because the symptoms seemed to line up somewhat, I opt to get the car towed to a workshop to get fixed up on the Monday. When it gets there they get stuck into diagnosis and the CAS wasn't sending a signal to the ECU, and the fuel pump was also dead so it was comical for a small moment there. They replace the dead fuel pump when one of them notices some smoke coming from the passenger kick panel. Boy oh boy this is where it gets very bad and very expensive. I am not sure who wired the car when the NEO swap was done originally but I hope they never attempt auto electrical again as I am lucky that this handywork only managed to short and kill the ecu and engine loom and not do more damage. This is the point where you could say the 'build' started but not by choice. After some deliberation with my bank account I opted for a Haltech Elite 2500, RB terminated loom, and WB1. While I wish I stopped there and did the minimum of get the car running and leave it at that, I slipped into the rabbithole and decided I wanted to make the most of getting a retune and throw some bolt ons at it and see what it would do. I then threw together a bit of a mix n match build of marketplace deals starting with a GCG GTX3076R, a turbosmart FPR6, 980cc injectors, walbro 460, jackspanian ffp, throttle & fuel rail. At this point it was coming along nicely, the shop was making quick work of it and the bay was looking a lot nicer without the stock crossover intake. I also got them to replace the noisy centre bearing while it was off the road. Then we couldn't get an OEM CAS to talk to the haltech so ended up getting a PRP Street Trigger Kit for it. While the car wasn't playing nice it decided to kill the stock alternator too so went with an LS1 alternator conversion kit. By now the car was pretty much done and ready to go but come tune day the car kept throwing the timing out every time it would warm up. Upon further investigation it seemed to be warping the PRP trigger bracket when the metal would get hot and expand which would cause the sensor to lose timing as it moves. Herman advised that they have seen the issue a few times now and don't know what the cause is. At this point I decided to switch to the PRP Pro kit with the crank trigger and considering the whole timing belt would have to come off I decided to get a new timing belt kit with water pump fitted. The car would now run fine with no issues and it was finally tune time. It ran up a healthy 275kw but ran out of boost due at 17psi to the rear housing being undersized. At this point the clutch also started slipping and due to it still being a weak RB20 box the tuner set it up to ramp from 8psi up to 17psi with the revs so that it wouldn't load up the clutch and box as hard. Car drives like a dream now. With the car back on the road I could return my focus to the smaller details, starting with getting a set of badges for the hood and quarters. I was struggling to drive with shoes on and I noticed that my accelerator pedal sits higher than my brake and clutch, if someone could confirm how it should sit that would be great. Next little changes was a killallwipers rear windscreen wiper delete, I also got some interior bits I was missing such as parcel shelf speaker covers, wiper trim cover, and boot floor and trims. Finally made it to a SAU NSW event which was awesome to cruise with a bunch of likeminded individuals. Another creature comfort I decided to look into was my lack of A/C. Since the Haltech got wired up the digital climate would power up now, and would blow but no cold air. First issue noticed was the lack of belt on the A/C compressor. After sorting that to no avail, it also had no A/C gas in it, but turns out the condenser has a huge leak. We are almost caught up on the story so far, but at the start of this month while coming into a driveway I heard a huge clunk in the front end to which I got out to witness whatever dodgy camber arms someone installed in this at some point decided to snap in half and I feel very lucky that it didn't happen at speed. Managed to get the car fixed the next day with some replacement GKtech arms. Next problem to address was the leaking gas tank from months ago. Checked the pump hanger seal first but that was fine, stuck my camera up after filling up to try scope out the leak which looked like the breather hose. Got the car up on a hoist prepared to drop the tank when I reached up to feel with my hand and I could feel that the hose clamp was missing and soon after felt that there was a gaping hole in the top of the hose. Replaced and tested and the car holds its liquid now and doesn't give me a fume headache whenever I drive it now. Finally have caught up and now onto fixing my latest issue which is the lack of dash light when driving at night, checked fuses first, then when searching I found the common problem of the headlight switch burning out but mine looks fine. Next test will be plugging a known working headlight switch into my car to tell if my switch is dead. Sorry for the long read but I wanted to be thorough, so if anyone made it this far I salute you soldier. Enjoy the rest of your day and I will keep this updated with issues I find/solve and any cool mods I can do inbetween. Merry Xmas!

I got one clip of the car from WTAC this year. It sounds amazing coming down the straight. Though the potato phone recording does not quite do it justice. VID_20240831_160153.mp4 It was nice to meet you in person @bcozican! I'm the guy in the explorer hat who came up during the pit walk on Saturday. Much appreciated that you went out again in the afternoon session. It's a shame not all the teams do. Hope it all worked out well for you and that you can make it again next year!

So good putting the valve/flap on the catch can. My clothes don't smell like shit anymore. Tempted to fully seal the catch can for daily use and feed all the crank case fumes back into the intake and expose the vent only when on the race track. Took my daughter to go visit her grandmother, now she's making spooling noises in the car lolol.

Long time no post! Well, I never thought I'd see the day but here we are...

It appears that work has commenced and this work shop is doing work, and selling that work for money, like some kind of a work shop. Bare metal vents and fenders are no longer bare metal, which is great with that whole 'turning into rust rapidly' problem. The panels look to be fitted, though I don't know how permament this is. Given I drove by a few days ago and saw the whole side of the car sanded down (but no panels fitted) they are probably permamently affixed now: Rear bar and skirts look like they fit and line up as god intended, which is nice. Rear lip has been removed and filled in, and can see the templates they are using to mount the wing back there, instead of just drilling and eyeballing it which is nice lol. And I did buy the brake light for the S1 which lines up with the OEM hole, Nissan just uses some tunnel thing to get the light to the light inside the lip which isn't really a light, directly. I was smart enough to test this before I dropped the car off :p They have also installed (this is temporary tac welds for testing) the bracket I came up with, and made something for the other side, in the event that some idiot cut those brackets off to fit an intercooler at some point in the past. They also have moved my oil cooler back, so that it is no longer hanging off the headlight support. There was a bit of forcing the front bumper on there in the past. I mentioned it to them because I can see paint people finally finishing up a front bar then wincing if they have to force the damn thing on in a weird way. Now there's plenty of clearance for OEM levels of fitment and gaps which is just nice. I do wonder how low that will actually sit with a bumper on and such, but it wouldn't be a massive task to move it up a little, or a different angle in the future given there is literally nothing in this space for now. Until I get talked into getting a dry sump tank made and fitted in that entire space, after going to WTAC...

Purchased a NC MX5 a while ago Basic suspension mods done, BC coils and Whiteline sway bars New DBA calipers, discs and pads Added some 17 x 8 Konig Decagrams with 215/45 17 PS5's Added some typical NA bolt on's, i.e. full exhaust and intake Added 0.5ltrs with a MZR2.5 swap, nice bump in torques Found a detachable hard top which is locked in for a colour match with my local paint shop in Feb 25, this also includes some PDR as it has received a few love taps from parking in the local shops when in the hands of my Minister for War and Finances, me, I park nowhere near other cars and typically park on the street The little thing is awesome, I drive it everywhere, it handles like a dream whether I'm up it or just cruising But now, because I'm a idiot, I keep looking at turbo kits....... did I mention I'm a idiot Why is dose so appealing All of the NA 2.5 glory, well.......until sometime in 2025 anyway....🤪

Thanks mate It's all coming together finally. It's just a better racecar now and also yeop I've pulled my thumb out and committed and the combo seems to be gelling Depends what you mean by not much more haha There's at least a 1.19 in this My fastest lap posted lost 3.5 tenths in T10 and this was on 80% power and 5 heat cycle old tyres The next session/ lap we did we were up 4 tenths with the car out of the final turn T12 accelerate straight and going with 1 or 2 tenths to come from the power to the finish line and the shifter/gbox combo stopped selecting So we wouldve had it. The whole thing.. Also repeated this the very next lap up 3 tenths out of T10 and same issue Add some news tyres and we good Looking forward to a break then yeop WTAC and see if we can actually have a decent run

Got the shell, doors and rear flares painted at work, now I can start putting it together.

So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems, could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress. After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome. Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4 Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.

Yes, well. One of the hallmarks of poor quality control is variable quality.

Took it for a drive to do some logs, I’m pretty sure my voltage issues and electrical noise issues are gone, I’ve sent a log to Adam and am waiting to hear back with confirmation att.K23U9eHyiEJxixH6y1__GQfuqK0EgIoDgQFTs9G8x_w.mp4 idle video from that day just because

PB the karnt, then lost an IC clamp. Was also warned about go sideways 😂 He said he understands the track is hot and tyres let go in the heat. Called it a day 4th session, came on the throttle on Lap 2 and lost boost. No idea where the passenger side IC Bluetoothed to, and it was getting quite hot so called it quits. Waited for the other boys then we ended up at the pub for 3 hours lol. My mate in the R33 shit box managed a 59s on his first track experience at Luddenham.

A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!

OK WTAC '24 adventures - dont know if anyone wants to hear it past whats been put out already but hey I'll put some of it out anyway and try give some insight Summary : end result - 6th open class and 1.31.1 lap How'd we get that Following the above after Aus Time Attack at Winton and driving the car up to Sydney to store the rb2.8 went in so got to fly over to Sydney the Monday before the event The car was with Greg at Sydney Composites workshop - we got straight to work that arvo changing out the front wheel bearings as they flog out allll the time. A new bonnet was being made and my goodness its nice ! also new bigger canards were put on as I was the first one to trial the new canards and after testing from others bigger basically proved to be better rather than my initial cut down version. We also did ride height changes and setup was there till 1am Wed morning but got it all done A big focus this year was to get me some seat time on SMP - laps for me = good so has an extra prac Wed morning to roll around so up at 6am to track Basically 2 quick sessions and 3 'hot laps' we quickly worked out that the custom red / golds MCA's I had in werent valved strong enough to hold up all the new aero at these speeds, we suspected at Winton but were hoping... but alas nope. Also the tyres I had on from Winton were gone and just down right dangerous haha So... some appropriately valved MCA golds were sources from Canberra and driven up straight to the track for me to borrow and retro fitted with my current stuff and some better used tyres put on from Xtreme. Got into the arvo where I had to take more prac spot so took it - we got 2 x goes at a lap but the setup was wrong and was porposing like crazy so aborted each one but we got it sorted correctly after but didnt get to go out again WTAC official prac Thurs Did 3 sessions of 1 lap each time no power - suspension better few tweeks here and there and got to get a little bit of a groove back all seemed OK We found the car getting back to some understeer because we still had the old rear suspension in and it couldnt handle the aero load but had no options so had to work around it ... it ended up scraping the rear diffuser that sits quite away off the ground that how much it was ! WTAC - Competition day 1 Morning Session - usually the best - wound it up had a crack was good but safe and not the max from a push p.o.v 1.31.6 The wind then picked up as did temp went out just for a lap on no power for second session did a solid 1.33 totally sat out the last session as no point due to track conditions WTAC - Competition day 2 Morning session - full send ! - ran it hard down the front straight as I got to T1 turn in car faulted and switched off - tried to do another lap after resetting tyre pressures and fuel but was not working properly and got blocked and then had red flag anyway haha - bad Long story short - the balancer had gone and as well took the DBW with it Organized chaos ensued - between my team - Dahtones and Herman and just about everyone else we got everything needed and a new 1500 ATI put on - luckily thee was a Bosch motorsport stand in trader ally and they let us take the DBW they had on display to put on my car ! legends So at this point we've only done 1 real lap , missed the good session in the morning missed session 2 Pit walk was upon us and is always so busy but great and met @soviet_merlin and others we also try to get as many kids in the car for fun and photos as possible + meet people Session 3 - last one - wind was up, track was horrible didn't matter had to go - launched it as good a I could. We changed setup to leave the car in 5th gear into front straight so I didnt have to change down and worked well just held it flat max powas and max rpm - 282 kmph and 217kph around T1 (this has to improve alot )was up 1.2 secs into T8 despite mistakes and as previously said tyres just started going to mush - I couldnt get it around T8 properly lost most of my time picked more up with last 3 corners ended up 5.5 tenths up on previous good lap for new PB but missed out on top 5 by 6 tenths Still not my best lap I shouldve had it to make top 5 but didnt... thats racing A positive takeaway from an effing tough go at it this year - netting only 2 x hotlaps is both my 1.31 laps combined optimally gave a 1.285 - now I know I'll never be perfect but with a 2.6 sec difference - that means its there it just comes down to consistency to bring that down into an achievable 1.29ish Our best endeavors to have good seat time and a well sorted car illuded us this year but still got it done as best we could Good mate made me take a pit pic in front of the car which I look at now and is good as you just dont know I might not be back, or I might ! And then after watching the wild Top 5 shoot out you get to pack up starting at 9pm so pack it all up properly for long trip home We had a sleep and then yeop ... a near 4 day drive back to Perth. Look I dont actually mind the drive - its not great but its not horrible - but the toll it takes on you after or before competition isnt optimal and neither is the time it takes to do - maybe another option but they are few and expensive I tell you what im basically an international and would be ALOT easier to compete at WTAC if I lived anyway but W.A 😆 All in all hard work, solid result on paper but even if I was still 6th I would've like to at least be in the 1.30s and as close as I was and maybe due to circumstance it still says a 1.31 - which isnt sh*t just not the best .... the W.A crew that comes with me is awesome, im appreciative of getting to work with some of the best on top of that with Brad and some help from the pro drivers, Xtreme and others So back home back to it - full set of MCA golds going in now which was on the cards anyway and a new 'proper' race radiator to keep it cooler See what comes up next to race at or in ... that I dont know

There's not a great deal to report here .... except ...... FOR .... LSD!!! I bought a Quaife LSD from the UK and shipped it here .... Wish I'd just bought locally cause the shipping and duty was $700! But there were so many diffs used in the E90s I just wanted to be absolutely certain I was getting the right one so I spoke with a supplier in the UK who builds race cars and they have heaps of experience with the E90s. I pulled the diff out which was seriously awesome - I've never done anything like that before, I must have watched 1000 videos on YT about it as well as consulting the Bentley manual. It was super easy in the end. The diff was delivered to the awesome folks at Hornsby Diffs and will be back in a few weeks. I also replaced the diff bushings with some Nolathane ones. Really looking forward to getting it back and getting back to the track or even the skidpan.

Things are happening.

Decided we would get it tuned before gtr fest, due to some delays with other cars mine went on the dyno at about 6pm Friday night. 98 tune done we start flexing 10% 20% 30% all the way to 80 and then it’s time to give it hell aaaannnnd miss on number 4 😔 change plugs, still there, check coils, still there, decide to swap injectors to see if it moves, rev clean!! Try again, revs clean?? I made the call to pull the pin anyway because if it decides to play up with 35-40psi of boost in it and 7,000rpm, it will torch a cylinder before you’d even realize it had done it and I’m not risking it for a $200 injector. So new set ordered we did make the car drivable so I could take it to gtr fest. Finally got to drive it on e85 (slowly) its even better then it was! It’s so responsive, with under half throttle it cracking gate around 3,300 but mind you it is only 10-12psi at the moment IMG_2234.mov

Thanks for the recap Matt Z. It was a great day out and I know you have said it already, but we couldn’t have done it without the volunteers.

Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs. The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out. It was a victory for me last night.

Got just the wing painted and fitted up to the existing boot. Big visual change and about time after having a GTR wing sitting in the shed since 2018 Headed up to Mallala with a quick obligatory stop in at Boliver OTR Oil control mods seems to have worked. I checked the catch can after session 1 and there was a dribble of water/e85 with barely any oil in it. After session 2 and 3 there was almost nothing and I stopped checking after that. so either great success or catastrophic failure/block of the external breather The GTR wing made a noticeable difference in the 160-185km/h sweepers. It was a very hot day for the cars at over 33C but the previously done cooling upgrade/ducting/water sprayers meant I never saw over 60C intake, 105C water and 100C oil and temps would drop back down very quickly once I shut it down. AD09's are a decent tyre but certainly and expectedly a step down when compared the the CR-S/AR-1 I have had on the car for years of track days. The handling characteristics of my car which I often describe using the Tony Hawks Pro Skater balance mechanic where either side of the center is understeer/oversteer was much more pronounced with no "green/safe" zone in the middle. However, imo it steers well/easily during oversteer largely thanks to the custom ACOSTAL front end. Enjoy a loose lap POV with my mate giggling away as a passenger. Group photo for Peer Pressure Racing made it back home and gave it a wash Overall a great success compared to my previous two track days where i cooked the Starlets motor and blew up the new diff in the R32

Me coming to check the thread to see if my manual boost controller was set up correct......

Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No. Map Lamp BA9S single-sided Room Lamps T10×31 Trunk Lamp T10 meter Early T6.5 pedestal final T6.5 pedestal NISMO T6.5 pedestal Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal Winker T6.5 pedestal High Beam T6.5 pedestal 3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal final T6.5 pedestal NISMO T6.5 pedestal air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3 Late LCD T4.2 Short button T4.2 Middle Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short Keyring T5 Cigar Socket T5

Here are a few pictures for those interested. These where taken shortly after some rain.

Merry Clitmas you dirty cnuts. 24 hours ish in the sous vide at 50°C, then finished it off in the pizza oven at 500°C. Internal temp peaked about 56°C, albeit a bit higher than I wanted however still butter soft. Don't ever let the mother in law out cook you at family events. Yes, that plate was bought in Ischia, Italy.

Do you think they'll merge there performance divisions and we'll end up HoMo?

I visited again today: It would appear they have painted the main body of the car and some parts of some of the panels, so I can say that I now have BMW parts in my car, much to the envy of @Dose Pipe Sutututu It is still covered in dust which is quite the tease but I did look at a few circumspect spots that will be behind bumpers and such and wiped some dust away: After my repeated begging to PLEASE DONT PAINT OVER THE ENGINEERING CERTIFICATE (you have to re-engineer the entire car if they do) I see THIS: Which is great. Excellent job tbh at least to me. A better non dusty example would be the backs of the doors that have been painted: Giving a reasonable contrast between old and new (I know the old isn't clear coated on the inside of doors). The door card will well and truly cover where the old paint is, you can see in the second pic some of the black butyl/whatever shit is sticking the plastic sheet behind the door transfer that has happened since it's clearly been stuck back on. The most maddening thing about this colour is every time I saw it in the wild it looks like another colour, same with photos of many cars with the same colour looking wildly different in every photo anybody ever takes and this is no exception. But stand a little further back and it suddenly looks dark AF. I did tell them when I was discussing which of the 70 million charcoal colours to choose from (a porsche one, a BMW one, or a R32 GTR one etc) that if they just ignored me and chose one at random I would probably never notice. Maybe they did. But the colour is supposed to be B39 (BMW Mineral Gray). Boring I know, but the R34 sedan (to me) really shows off it's boat-ness when you paint it in a bright colour like bayside blue or white or whatever else. I do have a fondness for AR2 Nissan Red, but decided against that because it'll have pretty odd contrast to random bits unpainted (like engine bay, bits of trim etc, and maybe it'll fade). And people will always fkin comment on AR2. Everything remains super dusty. I have tracking numbers for the new heads, as well as some Improved Racing goodies, but they probably will be a next year thing by the time they end up on the car. I did some maths on the heads and I know why nobody goes to this extent in Australia, because it's really not worth it, given I could have just CNC'ed my current heads, bought a FAST102/TB and used my current rocker/spring/cam combination and get a 383 stroker (or stroked a 6.0 GenIV bottom end to 6.6L) built for the same price of just the setup in the mail/on the floor here. Or I could have bought a LS3 and a Drysump system. And then have a complete engine to sell. Oh well

Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on. The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.

The car is still in paint jail. Here are some paint jail photos of things in primer and disassembled. I visited yesterday, though these photos were from about a month ago, the status is much the same. There's just more dust now. Especially inside the car too, which apparently is fine and normal... but I think I'll be never ever having a clean interior ever again lol. As this has dragged along, a few new parts have also arrived which was supposed to be well after paint... where Greg replaces every single bit of the engine except the bottom end. This is extreme LS nerd stuff dialed to 11/10 that's probably not really suited for target audience here. (and there's more in the mail, from the US). .

UPDATE: Hi all! As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!

Recently did the Perth Festival of Speed - and basically what we thought might be an average event turned out to be absolutely awesome they bought Mad Mike and Xtreme over and was good to see Perth get, support and produce something so good - 24,000 people in two days It was nice to have it close to home for once yet have my whole crew there to run the car properly Xtreme got the tin top laps record with 51.57 I hadnt done a hot lap on the home track for 20 months and finally everything clicked and dropped 4 secs off PB and did a 53.29 which is 3rd fastest tin top ever around that track. only 1.3 tenths behind 2nd so should eat that up soon... can I get Xtremes time - its not out of the question Alll the blaa blaa's in the world but if I can replicate even close to that situation on other tracks will be able to make an impact We got asked to do the hill climb to put on a show which in reality is just using some chicanes and the short track at barbs but good fun... launch control was put in and won the Pro class in that also. Car needs some attention after being on it around Australia for last few months moreso the carbon underbody work and just a run through and clean up everything else seems to have held up good enough. Would like ,to take some weight out but that requires alot of effort 😁 Also waiting on new rules for WTAC and have some decisions to be made there and prob some minor modifications to suit pending class changes. Will see... Divided on whether to go hard for one more year or chill out re: events this coming year prob more on the go hard and see if I can get improvements in times. If I didnt have so travel so far it would be less of an issue but I do so hmmm... Also because build thread - gone to flappy paddles and a gearing change with a drop gear. It was becoming apparent that there were situations where I really needed to be hanging onto the wheel with both hands yet had to change gears and was getting a little sketchy and / or I just didnt change gears and delt with it and also 5th gear at 10,000 rpm is 290 kmph so I havent been using 6th as did 282 at WTAC and 274 in Perth drop gear will change to 6th being 300 at 10,000 rpm should also get a touch more acceleration speed

Wrapped up my catback modifications this morning. I'm loving the pie cut turn down and oval muffler.

Super cool if you like geeking out on oil. I especially love the testing done with cars that just ran for 500,000 miles.

Cage has come back from powdercoating. Colour is "Dormant Purple." Rested the door bars into the car for now just to see how the colour looked. Cutting carpet, install and trimming to come

Got the rear subframe in and back on its wheels, also fitted the motor.

Great pic

Hi all have owned my series 1 r33 gtst for 3 years. When I picked it up it wasn't running, but have slowly fixed things during those years. Finally starting to get more time for my r33, currently in the process of sorting rwc and club rego. I have no real mechanical experience so ive just been learning through youtube and these forums. Just hoping to restore this car and learn alot from everyone in the process

If you look closely, you can actually pinpoint the moment Dose's heart broke

I guess the main advantage is that they start out hard and incompressible, so you can throw them away immediately, rather than waiting until they've done 50k km or something?

Happy new years folks! Wishing you all a successful year of money pit ownership! So the subframe bushes are out.... Ok, who else has done that job before?? What a C U Next Tuesday of a job that is! Be glad to not do that again in a hurry! I think I explored every option available to chop the middle section of the bushes out, most of them unsuccessfully! I tried a holesaw, die grinder, normal drill bit, air chisel, etc, etc. The true success happened by accident when I'd decided to try a step drill I spotted on the bench on the way passed. See, there are benefits to never cleaning up after yourself! It RIPPED through so so much better than the drill bit. It has to be the skinniest one available so its small enough to fit between the inner tube and outer casing but it made easy work of it. First one i hammered the shit out of... New method- 20250102_185506.mp4 I did the other 5 in less time than I fluffed around with the first one. With the first couple I used the cut off saw (sawsall as the yanks love to call them) to cut a break in the outer casings. Even with that they're still a prick to hammer or air chisel out. The last few i just went rambo with the air chisel without cutting them. I over cut one of the early ones so will hit the with the mig to fill the cut then sand it off smooth. The carnage left over- I've also been "nesting" ie, cleaning up my babies nursery, ie cleaning the f**king pig sty of a shed. I've got that much shit laying around it's as cluttered as my head! Getting things put away, in boxes, on shelves, hanging off walls, all to get some working space back again. Hopefully that keeps me motivated....

Finally replaced the previous temporary mesh indicator surrounds (temporary was the last 10+ years 😂) with a 3D printed GTR style version for the front indicators. I think it looks a lot nicer than the old setup and at least the indicators now point in the correct direction rather than angled off. Needed a little bit of tweaking to deal with the intercooler piping but got there in the end. Old and new photos below.

Okay! I finally have the results! RB25DET with authentic G-Series G30-660. I wish I could share logs and tuning other details but the tuner was very reserved and didn’t want to provide it… anyway I’ve met my power goal! 521HP on pump and 620HP on e85. The sad part is I had a small boost leak that was discovered after finalizing my pump tune but with there being a schedule to uphold, the shop fixed the leak, and moved on to e85. I think we would’ve seen a better boost response and HP increase. The tuner said this: starts building pressure at 3,300RPM max boost at 4200RPM (27PSI) Drops off to 22PSI short of 7000RPM and at 7700RPM it starts choking the engine Overall, with my goal of hitting full boost within 3,500-3,800 RPM, I was just 400 RPM short of the latter target. My other goal was 450hp, but the setup exceeded expectations with 521hp! I'm super happy with it! MAN, let me tell you, the car felt absolutely violent on my way back from the shop. Haha. I did a pull from third gear and I hit the rev limiter hard because I wasn't expecting it to go from 3k to 8k so much faster than when I had the GTX3076R. What do you guys think? I welcome all feedback!

So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?

I went back in today (I just wander into the body shop on a 2 week interval now). Hmmm. Slowly but surely! Various other parts around the place done/half done/inside done but outside yet to do, etc. Still have no real idea as to what colour this car is, just like all the BMW's I saw online (and in person). Just looks a different shade of colour from any angle at any picture taken of it. The differing levels of dust obviously do not help.

Been needing a new clutch for a while, but holding off because of life tingz and adulting. But... Being of Asian descent, I can't pass on a good sale, especially everyone else is selling it for $2k+ (JJR has it for $1799). Really on the fence on this one, because the unsprung version of this is $1281 via Shitbox (Sparesbox) and the sprung version is quite a bit more (no idea why Shitbox doesn't offer them). Ending up just sending it and getting the twin sprung organic. Mainly because I wanted the car to be nice to drive and didn't want to make it more of a shitbox than it already is.

Been over 2 months since I have done anything on the S15 and had a day off today so got stuck into mounting the radiator and intercooler. I ended up using factory bottom mounts as bolted in and I did order some gktech top brackets but didn't work with the PWR radiator so made up some with aluminium flat bar. Spent way to long on them but pretty happy how they are. Next job was the intercooler. Used some more aluminium flat bar and did the bottom mounts first. Top was easy as just one long piece and 2 90 degree coming off rad support and welded them on. The bumper support required some notching to let the outlets sit where I want so will add some reinforcement later to strengthen it. I have also bought ecu and waiting for it to arrive. Went with a Link g4x Xtreme but will be adding a ptmotorsport expander to add a few extra inputs over CAN. Went through a few different configurations on pclink to get what I want to allow future expansion for sensors and gearbox upgrades. Ordered gktech rear arms but looking at the hardrace lower control arms to have some extra adjustment too will see how the alignment looks after first setup. Got 2 more weeks of work before shut down and will have almost 4 weeks to work on this so planning on hopefully firing up mid January. Also bought a 2015 brz with a heap of good gear, did noosa hill climb a month back. Owned it for 3 days changed alignment and sent it. Finished the weekend 2nd in class and only .3 off the 180sx best time last year. MCA Red coilovers, gktech rear lca, bolt on lock kit and tie rods, whiteline toe arms, cusco 1.5way diff and 4.5 ratio, endless brake pads, headers, exhaust, perrin intake and e85 tune. Electronic steering adjustment, nankang crs with koya wheels 17x9 +35. Have bought rear traction arm and relocation kit, extended studs and v3 tie rod kit. Planning on also getting flex tune as lucky to get 300km a tank with e85 and short ratio. Car is a heap of fun to drive and super easy to work on. AC in the line up at Noosa was mint in 35degree weather.