GTofuS-T

In my experience the kit they list for your car will have the right number of bolts... plenty of people run BCs and have never seen a "coilover has 3 bolts but my car only has 2 holes" thread

your auto is epic rebound from mad manual ricerboy car.. you'll get bored.. no wait you already bought a bike

ah that might explain it

Seriously?

which is literally never

kind of irrelevant when they're not claiming the twins produce more power, just that the power is on earlier and so more enjoyable to drive

They also posted a twins with V-Cam off and the gtx with V-cam on and they were almost identical... seems fishy... perhaps the gtx cars v-cam if fooked?

Ouch there's your problem...I don't feel like repeating myself from another thread, but cheap + china = no QC = playing Russian roulette

better point them losers to this thread so they can learn to make some real powah

506kW..."Never thrashed or abused" LOL $75,000... double LOL

Probably to facilitate riced up engine bays like so, 2 braided lines look sexier than 1.

not necessarily... there's more to the chain than manufacture >> sell... big names who have built up a reputation of quality and reliability will undoubtedly have some level of quality control in place that the cheaper alternatives don't. This is why you'll see a wider range of people with bad AND good results with cheaper options, as they sell what they purchase, so it's just luck of the draw. However a company with good QC will identify and hopefully scrap a portion of their inventory and have to absorb the cost of those goods that don't meet their standards as well as the cost to conduct the QC tests and so what they do sell costs more.

that's actually pretty nice! OEM appearance too which would be desirable for some applications.

Considering this, why not put in whatever your local meme engine swap option is? ie. in Australia it would be the LS1, surely there's a similar local option in abundance?

none of these were required on brand new 90's cars at the time either... do you think your Fiesta will not need these in 25 years?

From one extreme to the other, does it jump straight to that hot position or gradually work it's way up there as the car warms up from cold? Most would recommend installing an aftermarket gauge that shows actual temps before trusting the factory gauge. Would be cheaper than chasing a heating issue that may not be present.

Really depends, are you buying a car to end all future car purchases (i.e. expecting it to last) or flipping every 2 to 3 years, and by new do you mean off the lot smells like ass it's so new or 2 to 3 year old ex-warranty? What we don't truly know is how much engineering has been stripped out of new cars to maintain financial viability (or to add planned obsolescence), and will any of the "new" cars still be comparably reliable to a stockish 25 year old Nissan when they reach the same vintage. I'm curious to see what the next generation of young tuner enthusiast drivers will be driving (if they even still exist) in 10 years, as nothing from now or up to 10 years ago ( or longer?) is engineered to last, cheaply or reliably. But without external intervention (crash, stupid mods, greenies, etc.) I would assume my R33 will still be kickin' on, yet the demand (assuming it's there) will be too high for it to be a good value proposition like it was for most of us. At which case it's not a comparable discussion. absolutely same with my mum's i30, not even N, but get over say 70km/h and try to accelerate and there's nothing there, this is where the word compromise comes into play, just like all those "how can i 400hp rb20 no lag" threads can't understand. plus no soul and blah blah blah, I definitely enjoy thrashing it around town though, but wouldn't pay $20k for it compared to the $5k for the R33, however, would i buy the same R33 at $10-12k today? who knows, but probably not.

I assume you've checked the actual fluid?

You didn't look at the pic he posted? also it says it in his name/title card thing over there <<<<<<<<<

appears to be: he NISMO version was introduced for the 2009 model year. The engine produces 350 hp (355 PS; 261 kW) at 7,400 rpm and 276 lb⋅ft (374 N⋅m) of torque at 5,200 rpm with revised ECU settings and exhaust setup.

with 11:1 CR, Wiki says it's 261kW from factory (i'm guessing at the flywheel) so seems reasonable

Imagine the cost of shipping during coronatimes, Surely in the 300 million+ population of the united states there is someone who can rebuild a turbo locally... based on everything else the OP has stated he's looking for a stock replacement on a stock ecu not a 300kW upgrade...

this is what i was wondering, i guess i'll take a look first as it's for a gts-t

Cause garage locks are so sophisticated and everywhere you go has a personal garage for every person... bollards for sure if the car is worth it but still doesn't help if you're out and about. Alarm is absolutely worth it if only to warn you (assuming your close by) or scare an amateur, mine certainly has when it used to be street parked. No point making it easier for them and i can't imagine anyone is putting alarm only systems in their car. In relation to GPS, anyone determined enough to use a tow truck would use a jammer making it instantly redundant, and tbf would probably just put you in hospital if you caught them as i'd assume they're not your average thief.

I was actually going to tag you but then i thought $1000 might be an insult?