Dose Pipe Sutututu

GT3582 vs GTX3582 Gen 1 and 2 would be very different in response, considering they flow much more air. A GT3582R is rated to about 600hp, a GTX3582R Gen 1 to about 750hp and Gen 2 at 850hp. I know the numbers Garrett advertise are a bit over the top, but you get the general theme. A GTX3071 Gen 2 would hypothetically flow as much as a GT3582 to put things into perspective.

97% of car owners don't tune their own cars, so they wouldn't need to purchase the cable nor would they need to purchase the software. Their preferred tuning shop would have the required cable and software. The shop license has no limits to the amount of Nistune it can tune.

Depending on your car, you probably don't need to swap anything. I was running a R34 motor and CAS with R33 wiring. Made things a bit more confusing lol. If you've ordered the right kit off NZ Wiring it will be pinned correctly to suit the R34 loom. All you need to do is setup the triggering, arming table, then lock your timing, adjust +/- the TDC offset till it is 100% synced. Then rip skids.

@Tobz sorry about the delay, laptop was flat lol Trigger Arming Voltages Below Trigger Settings, Note the offset is a bit cooked, but it works and even Geoff from NZ Wiring said what I did was ok

When you've binned your car and one wheel/hub is completely seized but you want to try drive it back to the pits.

Since you're that far already, why not pop in new valve springs, valve stem seals & cams with higher lift/bit more duration. And..... might as well put in a Samsonas.

Depends on which cam is selected. + I definitely can say my 2 way KAAZ looks like this (actual photo of my diff) and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)

Turns out Haltech Support was a bit confused and told me to supply +12V to the reluctor and feed it back to the trigger input. Geoff from NZ Wiring actually was right from the start. You don't use the +12v at all, as the reluctor itself generates a voltage. So all you need to do is use the Trigger PIN & Sensor GND. Both Home signal & +12V are not connected/used. The arming voltage table given to you by Geoff at NZ Wiring "should" be able to get the car started, however I found that increasing the values a bit reduced the trigger count errors. I'll get a screenshot of it soon

Time attack/track work I would personally go with a 1/1.5 way only. I have a 2 way KAAZ LSD and I can say that driving my friend's car with a 1.5 way around a technical track, it's actually faster than mine with a 2 way.

Convert to twin scroll, also I would go GTX3576R Gen 2 over the GTX3076R Gen 2. FWIW I was running a GTX3576R Gen 2, twin scroll albeit with a 1.01 rear housing and it was all in by 4300rpm~4400rpm with a smaller 2.5L motor at 2bar of boost (29psi).

oooft... killer setup

I must say, when looking back at it, doing head studs/nuts with the motor still in the car is quite amusing as you're in an awkward position! Doing it on an engine stand, right next to you feels more natural.

You skip a few heart beats when it makes these creaking noises too haha

@MoMnDadGTR we have Penrite 10 Tenths Racing here in Australia, high in zinc for limiter bashing goodness and 3rd gear burnouts at baby gender reveals.

I did drive mine at the settings PRP recommended for a period, then the last time I was tuning my car, Alex at Birrong had a look at my map and told me there's simply no need to run that much dwell in the coils. Told me to drop it sub 3ms at 14v. No misfire either with 2 bar of boost.

This lol...

If you were to pay $500USD for a PowerFC, I would rather direct that money towards a Nistune, a MAC valve and a flex sensor. You might even have money left over for a slab of beer.

He has been busy being an adult, spending money not on his car but instead on a house. Someone tell him he should be spending it on his car instead of renos.

Yaas!! Return flows are aids. You did the right thing.

I'm with NRMA Vintage and it's $490 a year full comprehensive. However they no longer are accepting new policies and refuse to budge on the agreed value. I'll be moving to Enthusiast myself next year if i decide to fix the car.

Have a look at the part number, I have a feeling that erratic idling is because of an A/T ECU. I've attached P/N I've found off the net, not 100% sure if they're accurate but worth a try.

Haha nah, been battling with shit real estate agents. Bought a place, told land registration would be done in "a couple of weeks". It's been a couple of months instead!

Are you running the an A/T ECU? if so then I suggest getting a M/T one in there OR just go straight to an aftermarket ECU.

This kit, just don't worry about the rears https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-14-akebono-big-brake-master-set-240sx-p-4669.html You can source the 370Z calipers and rotors yourself or just get the full kit with new calipers, rotors yourself. Also, very jealous you picked up a R33 GT-R for that price, the asking prices are just stupid now.

Have done this on my previous motor, others have done it on theirs with great success. Most of the mild SR20s I helped build & tune all have the same methodology applied and have held together well.