Dose Pipe Sutututu

He has been busy being an adult, spending money not on his car but instead on a house. Someone tell him he should be spending it on his car instead of renos.

Yaas!! Return flows are aids. You did the right thing.

I'm with NRMA Vintage and it's $490 a year full comprehensive. However they no longer are accepting new policies and refuse to budge on the agreed value. I'll be moving to Enthusiast myself next year if i decide to fix the car.

Have a look at the part number, I have a feeling that erratic idling is because of an A/T ECU. I've attached P/N I've found off the net, not 100% sure if they're accurate but worth a try.

Haha nah, been battling with shit real estate agents. Bought a place, told land registration would be done in "a couple of weeks". It's been a couple of months instead!

Are you running the an A/T ECU? if so then I suggest getting a M/T one in there OR just go straight to an aftermarket ECU.

This kit, just don't worry about the rears https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-14-akebono-big-brake-master-set-240sx-p-4669.html You can source the 370Z calipers and rotors yourself or just get the full kit with new calipers, rotors yourself. Also, very jealous you picked up a R33 GT-R for that price, the asking prices are just stupid now.

Have done this on my previous motor, others have done it on theirs with great success. Most of the mild SR20s I helped build & tune all have the same methodology applied and have held together well.

that's an alias I recognise

please don't lol Get 350Z Brembos (just need to drill out the hub to 14mm to fit) OR get 370Z brakes using the Z1 Motorsport kit. Funny coloured coilpacks would be the issue. Just straight up go get a PRP R35 coil pack conversion and delete the external ignitor

Not at all, just get a GM or Haltech sensor. Go into your ECU, hit F4 then select the IAT sensor, select the correct scaling (haltech has a bunch of calibration files ready to go), save, and done! (also, I would just cut the plug and re-terminate instead of using an adaptor which over time may corrode, snap, etc. and increase resistance over time)

If you're using the stock plenum, you won't be able to use the middle feed (which isn't needed in most scenarios). You "may" need to trim down the spacers so it fits. EFI Solutions (formally know as TAARKS) has a kit: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/top-feed-fuel-rail-kit-rb25det-r33-c34

Do this please, trust me you don't want to do what I did. Also when you move to the billet Spool oil pump gears, you also increase flow (bad thing). I took apart a fully working NEO motor, got carried away (was suppose to only do HG, studs, bearings), nek minnit built dis dat, ARP rod bolts, ACL bearings, blah blah blah. Killed the motor after 2x track days, stock unopened motor did about 10+

As @Murray_Calavera has said, no one wants to pay for it and also with the usage of E85 you tend to know when the motor knock. Power will drop with more timing, where as with 98RON you tend to still make power with more timing however might be in the knock range already.

I'm going to be honest here, I don't think the knock control for the Platinum Pro works properly, I've never been able to get it ready or log correctly.

Oh you know back then you could have easily bought 350Z Brembo front calipers with used OEM rotors for $500 or less. A while after I wrote that stupid article the price of 350Z Brembo calipers shot up lol.

Yes, here's a guide I wrote back then when I cared about sharing knowledge lol http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/

I can help with Kelford cams

and nek minnit you order GT-R rotors and they don't fit because the previous owner installed 350Z Brembo Calipers with 350Z discs.

Correct for the R32 GT-R (non V-Spec, Sumitomo calipers) but some just throw on R33 GTS-t rotors as they're a bee's dick cheaper.

No you need 324mm rotors, GT-t are 310mm. If you need DBA rotors, I can help with competitive pricing

I like the razor sharp cutoff like modern cars!

And in earlier documentation we were advised to unplug & disable the flag... guess what that did? make the car go straight to the last column everytime it came onto boost... yeah that was fun, went pig rich and shot out a backfire. Updated documentation then recommended it was plugged back in, flag disabled and the voltage limits maxed out. This helped, but the transient map was a pain in the arse to tune.

Needs more turbs

I don't even bother playing with the K constant anymore.. Use the drop down to select the correct AFMs, scale the injectors properly, then use the TIMS setting to fine tune. Then rescale the load axis on both ignition and fuel map. Tune, rip skids.