Dose Pipe Sutututu

Do you have a wideband? I wouldn't be surprised if it's a misfire due to a lean condition. At 1.3bar of boost, 0.6mm gap and Splitfires are a walk in the park. You could run 0.8mm gap and still be fine.

Well at least you have a crank case breather now, we all know RBs love to pressurise the crank case and not allowing oil to drain effectively back into the sump. Time for a 3.2L 1000hp motor?

Hellos, I sell parts from R33 S2 GTS-t boat scrap bin. Intake pipe from grenade to AFM Power steering reservoir Coil pack / valley cover Plazmaman Hotside pipe, modified to suit Hypergear ATR45SAT on stock manifold & elbow welded on Location: Cabramatta, NSW 2166 Price: $50 for the lot

Clearly English isn't my first language lol... I only read the part it shuts off when hot and he can't start it again, so I assumed the non-start scenario only occurred when the motor was hot.

Get a wideband first, install it then log down what your AFRs are when it starts fine. When idles cold, when it idles warm and when it's about to die.

Sounds like that "shop" you took it to needs to go back to school. What ECU are you running? do you have a wideband O2 on installed? What are the AFRs like on idle

When's the big single turbo going on? https://www.spoolinboost.com.au/ls1turbokits

And at the end of the day, twins are aids. @djvoodoo has converted from aids to cool.

Don't forget your crew in uniform too Looking forward to the build!

1000hp street package, Samsonas, MoTec M1 dis dat.

I should send you my R33 lol

Very beefy looking, have a mate that also just ordered a set of customised Shockworks coilovers for his R33 boat. Pretty keen to see how it compares to my dinosaur MCA X-Rs.

Well you have a Kebabtech 2500 do you not?

Hypertune catalogue, billet dis dat

Awesome, gone now thanks! Also when we amalgamating the sub forums like when we last discussed?

You'll lose low down power, however I assume your car will be used for street runs in "Mexico", roll racing, 1/4 mile and not circuit so you'll always in the higher end of the rev range so you won't really notice the lack of low down power.

@PranK still getting this message although I've re-confirmed, re-entered my email, reset my password etc.

Is this for a street driven GT-R or will you be doing track as well? DBA luckily supplies the rotor to suit the OEM hats, so you don't need to replace the entire thing. However some people prefer to replace the lot 2x DBA52320BLKS (fully assembled, 2-piece, cross drilled/slotted, black hats) $1160 2x DBA52320BLKS (fully assembled, 2-piece, cross drilled/slotted, gold hats) $1160 2x DBA52320.1XS (rotor only, new nuts, cross drilled/slotted) $720 2x DBA52320.1S (rotor only, new nuts, slotted) $710 Pads for street use I would go Elig Sports($449), for mainly track some street I would go Elig Racing ($584) Hope that helps Freight should be about $35 for the lot.

Looks about right, diagram is giving me a headache lol. Essentially you want the boost source from your plenum (only applies to RB26 as throttles are post plenum).

Wiring fine, you'll need to slightly replumb

Honestly doesn't matter as majority of alarms are wired the same way, unless you've done it yourself and disabled non conventional circuits and hidden everything. At the end of the day it's just a deterrent device from opportunists.

Two cocks, one anus (male)

Just as long as your manifold design still keeps the pulses separated then you'll be still good. Still gains to be had on any I6 with a proper twin scroll manifold into a single scroll, this is evident with people grinding out the split in the RB25 manifolds because broscience tells them it "flows" more and losing heaps of low down.

If I binned a BMW motor, I would probably just set the car alight, call it quits in the car scene and then buy a hybrid Camry

Don't worry brah, I heart BMW too. On the fence between stripping the R33 shit box, adding a bit of cash and getting either a M2/3/4