Dose Pipe Sutututu

Thanks for that, I'm planning to go DBW one day too, however have been looking at the OEM wiring and I'm afraid there might be too much noise as the wires aren't twisted. Might be worth it running a new aux harness for the pedal & DBW. Going full FFP you'll lose low end & mid range, this has been proven time and time again. Something in the middle is the Plazmaman top half plenum that mates to the stock runners thus your low end won't suffer as much. And yes, no matter what you want to do you're going to need to cut a hole to run a proper FMIC

This man here makes a valid point, you would definitely drive the car at least 16 times a year. So in conclusion, get a sequential box.

Nice work! Did you run an auxiliary harness for the DBW or just reused the OEM IACV & TPS wiring? I don't believe your turbo is out of puff, it's definitely the return flow cooler holding you back.

and less maintenance too, pool you need to skim, clean, scrub, chems, etc. Samsonas, well just an oil change

*eagerly waits for bathroom and kitchen reno posts* OR SAMSONAS

Just get DBA4000 standard, ie no slots no cross drilled. I always use them (car is 70% track 30% street), and all my racing mates too. Have seen small fractures appear on heavily worn slotted ones however never seen any issues with the non slotted ones. OEM is great, however the cooling characteristics of the DBA4000/5000 are greater due to the increased surface area in the cooling channels.

Or this, with the PRP bracket

I'm using one too, no voltage problems with 3x fuel pumps running albeit 2x are PWM. Good value.

Dw cuz your mate habibi here can help

Another option is to PWM your fuel pump in your surge tank and only fully drive them at 100% DC when you're on boost. This would reduce the issue of having an undersized return line from your FPR back to tank. I still think using both your stock lines as a return and running a new 8AN line from your surge to your fuel filter -> rail will solve the inherit issues and also be somewhat cost effective enough. Another way is to run the FPR at the rear and use both the OEM return and feed as a twin feed to the front only. One small downside to this is your FPR "might" react a touch slower than what your manifold pressure is. If this lag translates to you actually noticing is anyone's guess.

Because it's a digital signal, you should be okay not using sensor GND. For sensors such as temperature, pressure, analogue inputs then you must use sensor power and sensor ground so there are no voltage offsets.

Get a Haltech, pop on off the shelf Bosch injectors and throw the AFM, stock ECU into the bin where it belongs. Problem solved lol

Are you using the DE injectors and the DE AFM with a DET ECU? If so, there's your problem.

How's the Southern Cross tatt going?

this! Especially when you get people use the ECU IGN power to power their wide bands, and when you see people using chassis GND for sensors. Funny enough, I had to correct wiring on IS200 with a 1JZ swap wired by a "motorsport wiring professional". He had the wideband sensor GND output to the chassis then told me to use a voltage offset in the ECU. Then when setting up the tune, we found issues with the coolant temperature. Turns out the "motorsport wiring professional" had 1x sensor connected to the Elite CTS input and also the stock Lexus ECU input. Now is it really the ECU's fault here?

Maybe its your luck, to be honest I've never had a single problem with any Haltech (I've setup/tuned about a dozen). Not saying Link isn't a fantastic ECU, just I've seen too many people quick to blame something too many times on this forum.

Based on what evidence? I've never had an issues with the Haltechs I've tuned. It's 2020 not 1999 when Haltechs were in fact junk and unreliable.

Anyone have a broken desk? These might come in handy.

But direct off Matt at Nistune, best option as he fits and bench tests the board/ECU before sending it out. Better than some used, broken Facebook market place item

What a bunch of flogs

I would get Haltech support on it, show them the logs and make a point voltage is good too.

First thing that comes to mind, do you have any strange voltage problems?

I'm not quite sure to be honest, however with 1x 460L hard wired in running at 13.8V with the FPR fully wound out, the fuel pressure was still about 2bar. Now with a 8AN feed from the surge to rail, and using both stock feed/return as a merged return I can get the fuel pressure down to under 1 bar.

Stock 7.8mm Nissan lines are okay, was pushing 500hp on stock lines before, it's more so the return can't keep up.

Somewhat a proper update? Last Saturday my mate came over to help me remove the diff (because I was lazy and was going to drop the car off at the diff shop instead). Yesterday I dropped the diff unit at Smithfield Diff & Gearbox and today Anthony gave me a call said my diff was locking more on one wheel than the other and the clutch discs inside were fairly scuffed. He suggested he would clean up the discs, remove the scuff marks and re-arrange the plates so the lock can be evenly distributed. At the same time the diff unit will get new seals, new bearings and backlash re-adjusted (as there was some play, due to wear and tear). Was advised that there will be a little bit of whine as the crown is a little thrashed, however I said that's fine as it's not a street car. Will be getting it back early next week and will spanner check the car for the 14th of September at Wakefield. Have quite a few mates going: 3x EVOs 2x Mirages (both turbo charged) 3x Nissans 1x Honda with K20 Swap