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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. The subframe bushes are a touchy subject. I have the Hardrace hardened rubber set on mine, but with heaps of track days, skid pans etc. they're starting to deform and thus misaligning the rear end. I personally recommend straight up solid, but really depends on vehicle usage. If it's a streeter with the very odd track day or strip, then pop in the harden rubber bushes.
  2. Crank collar, Nitto oil pump, restrictors, sump vent, bearings, new seals all round, and Samsonas ?
  3. See what comes up @robbo_rb180 right now going to squeeze in a few track days in between finding a new place. ANZ has royally fked up our plans too, still waiting on our refinance to settle and it's been nearly 3 weeks. Not to mention it took over 2 months for our application to be approved! In too deep now, so yeah. Stay away from ANZ, bunch of flogs.
  4. To keep @iruvyouskyrine happy ? I really need to find a new R33 shell and move everything across. So much rust and shit on this one.
  5. There's too much fuel vs. oxygen for combustion to occur. You could put a spark plug in there connected to your ignition system and it won't ignite.
  6. There was actually a massive shop light across the bonnet, made the photos look like IG sex spec
  7. Okay, 2 months later I decided to fit the FMIC, also turns out my old HDi bok choy FMIC was leaking. Explains why boost was hard to control and also why the car always felt a bit flat off boost. That's the blow by oil weeping through the core lol Anyhow, fitted crank case vent to catch can, also fitted the Plazmaman Pro Series core. Car actually drives better now as it comes onto boost, much more down low and looking at the factory boost gauge I'm getting positive manifold pressure starting at 2700rpm. Big improvement, will go back and dyno it again soon and see what I can achieve with the combo. (Please ignore those potato hoses from the cam covers to the catch can, all temporary until I go FFP and fit nice fittings and lines)
  8. Put it this way, putting twin turbos on an inline 6 is stupid and putting a single turbo on a V6 is stupid. Also comes down to practicality. To make twins work on an inline properly you would want twin plenums, twin ICs, twin throttles so there are issues with shuffling, flow disturbances, etc. No-one has ever really attempted that hence all twin setups on RBs and 1/2JZ all suck balls. Its like trying to put two cocks in one bum.
  9. At OP, what's with the list of dinosaur parts? Surely if you're going to spend money and least modernise the car.
  10. Thanks again for the support I'm still surprised the BBS wheels cleared, no need to upgrade!
  11. Spark plug gap has no correlation to knock, you can't just reduce the spark plug gap and miraculously increased your knock threshold.
  12. a bit hard to see on the photo, but there's a inverted dimple on the outer gear. The new one (not pictured) doesn't have that.
  13. Make sure you get the latest version of the Spool gears, the first version of them had some tolerance issues. I'm now using their latest revision of it and so far so good. Has seen 1x skid pan (limiter all night) and 1x solid track day at Wakefield and still has good start up oil pressure. Here's what happened to the 1st generation of their gears. The 1st generation came anodised in black (quiet useless as it strips pretty much instantaneously) and has a detent (is that the right word @GTSBoy ?) anyhow the later revision is all smooth and not anodised. Personally, just send it get a Nitto pump and call it a day. I should have done this from the start, however it was supposed to be a "stock motor refresh" build nek minnit.
  14. Mixed review about those plugs, I've had first hand experience, I would say do not go there. I know of a workshop that raves about them, so I gave it a go... They work fine for moderate boost, then I started to wind in the boost on when I decided to tune my car on the dyno and it started to misfire. Initially thought it was the R35 coils, so rammed in about 4ms of dwell and I kept adding till about 4.2ms with 1.3bar of boost (18psi for those who think Fahrenheit is a useful UOM). I felt a bit defeated with tuning then, Alex (owner of Birrong Automotive) came over with a box of NGK BCPR7ES and said throw those junk plugs out. I gapped the BCPR7ES at 0.6mm and popped them in and surprise surprise no misfire, I ended up dropping the dwell down to 3.0ms and kept adding boost and peaked at 2.1bar of boost, bleeding down to 1.8bar. Moral of the story, don't bother with them.
  15. What colour are your coil packs? If they're red, throw them into the bin and replace with OEM or Splitfires or R35 Conversion If they're yellow, throw them into the bin and replace with OEM or Splitfires or R35 Conversion
  16. Wot? Haltech can control variable cams. Someone telling you porkies. Platinum Pro no, Elite yes.
  17. Yes and no.. if you just using the Platinum Pro as-is and not exhausting all the inputs then it's pretty good value.. as soon as you add in an I/O expander, aux harness, etc. then it's most cost effective to just get an Elite 2000 or 2500 if you are planning DBW & additional stage engine protection strategies
  18. You could get more gains if the V-Cam was controlled via the ECU and not the guess box it comes with. I prefer Haltech if I was tuning, however Link has more features out of the box such as canbus keypad integration and a few more motorsport features. I do find the Link software a bit haram, the GUI doesn't scale properly and when you move widgets around it's not very fluid. But as the car owner (person running the ECU) there wouldn't be an issue as they would never log into it.
  19. Not to add salt to the wound, however if you had a better ECU at that point of time and with the appropriate engine protection strategies you could have caught that problem/issue and at least save part of your motor if not all of it. I see a modern ECU as insurance and also saves eardrums when your wife screams at you for spending another 20k on a motor lol
  20. Max out the boost cut to 255, however leave it connected, as soon as you disconnect it Nistune goes crazy and always references the last column on boost. Initial Nistune documentation said it could be disconnected and disabled however subsequent guides recommend it be connected, hooked up however disabled in the software. If not it will be an absolute pig to drive, it keeps referencing the last column on transient throttle.
  21. @Deza3000 my comments weren't targeted at you, more of a general comment
  22. Some people prefer cars to look and sound fast but go slow, it's the new thing these days. So many widebody Silvias with loud exhausts, need to finish it off with good dose.
  23. Inserts "Get a Samsonas" joke? Damn man, so it was running after market headstuds and still lifted the head? Probably head gasket was breached in the past. Just send it, build it and put a Samsonas behind it.
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