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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Not to add salt to the wound, however if you had a better ECU at that point of time and with the appropriate engine protection strategies you could have caught that problem/issue and at least save part of your motor if not all of it. I see a modern ECU as insurance and also saves eardrums when your wife screams at you for spending another 20k on a motor lol
  2. Max out the boost cut to 255, however leave it connected, as soon as you disconnect it Nistune goes crazy and always references the last column on boost. Initial Nistune documentation said it could be disconnected and disabled however subsequent guides recommend it be connected, hooked up however disabled in the software. If not it will be an absolute pig to drive, it keeps referencing the last column on transient throttle.
  3. @Deza3000 my comments weren't targeted at you, more of a general comment
  4. Some people prefer cars to look and sound fast but go slow, it's the new thing these days. So many widebody Silvias with loud exhausts, need to finish it off with good dose.
  5. Inserts "Get a Samsonas" joke? Damn man, so it was running after market headstuds and still lifted the head? Probably head gasket was breached in the past. Just send it, build it and put a Samsonas behind it.
  6. Change your turbo to an old GT 6+6 blade compressor wheel, they dose better. GTX compressor wheels don't dose good due to the efficient compressor design. Something has to give when you get more flow from the same sized wheel, and that is dose. Your turbo "can" dose, but will sound like a bus or truck dosing and you will need to run big boost. I get okay truck style dose with 2bar of boost.
  7. Have had engine protection protect the car going bang many times at the track from over heating, lean outs, oil pressure drops. Would have totaled my new motor at Wakefield Park last month if it wasn't for the Kebabtech limiting RPM, timing and boost when oil pressure dropped on the back straight when the sump drained. I could have kept racing with limited power but decided to stop. Pulled into the pits, looked at the logs and realised I had 2bar of oil pressure at 7k RPM. Straight away new there was an oil control issue without needing to guess or make dataless assumptions. Can't do any of that with a PowerFC.
  8. I see an RB30 Bosch Alternator in the engine bay
  9. That's nothing, a good panel beater can easily pull it back into place. If you're fussy, find a new radiator support. I personally would just pull it all into place add a few more spot welds for strength and spend the change on a better radiator, hoses, FMIC and a Samsonas.
  10. In too deep now ? Hopefully get to race this shit box with confidence after the crank case vent (and better tyres after I destroy this set).
  11. @mlr legit feels like it, with the money spent, could have bought a nice M240i or nearly a M2/3/4
  12. Popped my exhaust back on, so much better! Has a rolled exhaust tip and it's smaller too, no more cut shins! Ordering more fittings off MSCN next week to vent the crank case into the catch can, hopefully that should "solve" the catch can issue. If not, motor is coming out, I'm going to fit a Nitto oil pump and weld on 2x sump fittings.. because made a bad decision, bought a R33 and now paying for it.
  13. I agree, smart move. Spend change on M2 Comp and hookers.
  14. Americans, they love to keep the brands aligned.
  15. ARP2000 done. I run them with 2bar of boost and head hasn't lifted.
  16. How much boost/power you planning on? Also they are "reusable" but I personally wouldn't. Sell them to someone that's doing a simple build or a refresh on their motor and get new studs.
  17. Solid result, however if you have a MAP vs. rpm plot that would be good to see as well
  18. he is as credible as Edward Lees
  19. I'm still running the standard gearbox, it's an Edward Lees special edition with close to 500k kms on it lol. It's done 1x track day with the new motor and has exploded yet, has done over half a dozen track days with 372kW before the old motor let go. I rarely smash it into 3rd hard, because it grinds every time above 7k rpm, so I need to literally ease it into 3rd when I shift and make sure I'm under 7k rpm. I wonder if you were also running the wrong bearing carrier which caused the throw out bearing to be riding on the pressure plate
  20. I currently run a single 10" NPC clutch too and it's holding 407kW just fine. You may need to adjust the clutch pedal as it might be riding the clutch ever so slightly. In regards to the pedal sinking to the floor, are you still using the factory clutch damper? If so delete that POS ?
  21. Get a Haltech Elite 2500, all the needed sensors and a Wiring Specialties loom made for the Elite Series Haltech. Load up thr base map and you'll be good to go.
  22. Not currently, it's for the Nexus - however once they're finished with the Nexus and it's fully released they're going to expand the NSP suite to support the Elite and then update the firmware so it can utilise the canbus keypad
  23. I might have to, as well a canbus keypad once it's available for the Elite. I refuse to burn inputs for switches.
  24. I need a new speedo too, no idea what I'm doing once it passes 180km/h at the track ?
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