Dose Pipe Sutututu

How much boost/power you planning on? Also they are "reusable" but I personally wouldn't. Sell them to someone that's doing a simple build or a refresh on their motor and get new studs.

Solid result, however if you have a MAP vs. rpm plot that would be good to see as well

he is as credible as Edward Lees

I'm still running the standard gearbox, it's an Edward Lees special edition with close to 500k kms on it lol. It's done 1x track day with the new motor and has exploded yet, has done over half a dozen track days with 372kW before the old motor let go. I rarely smash it into 3rd hard, because it grinds every time above 7k rpm, so I need to literally ease it into 3rd when I shift and make sure I'm under 7k rpm. I wonder if you were also running the wrong bearing carrier which caused the throw out bearing to be riding on the pressure plate

I currently run a single 10" NPC clutch too and it's holding 407kW just fine. You may need to adjust the clutch pedal as it might be riding the clutch ever so slightly. In regards to the pedal sinking to the floor, are you still using the factory clutch damper? If so delete that POS ?

Get a Haltech Elite 2500, all the needed sensors and a Wiring Specialties loom made for the Elite Series Haltech. Load up thr base map and you'll be good to go.

Not currently, it's for the Nexus - however once they're finished with the Nexus and it's fully released they're going to expand the NSP suite to support the Elite and then update the firmware so it can utilise the canbus keypad

I might have to, as well a canbus keypad once it's available for the Elite. I refuse to burn inputs for switches.

I need a new speedo too, no idea what I'm doing once it passes 180km/h at the track ?

Incoming dick pics lol

GTX35xx loves big boost, need to send its mum, 2bar+ or go home and leave it to the Australian experts.

@mlr ahh that photo is at the fabricator, probably for his AE86.

Ring lands and factory glass oil pump.

Next question, is it even a genuine Garrett GTX3582? If it's an US home brew junk or a Dimsum special, it's not going to perform. Also it's from America, the data is not even worth the server space.

All fail whale items, please don't get any of them.

The Nismo Ed. front bar looks sick!

I wouldn't be so fast to blame the spacers, there could be a few factors here such as the hub locators and also the amount of torque applied on the studs/nuts

Haram exhaust tip fixed, catch can with bigger fittings and an additional fitting for crank case vent. I am ready for the show down with @BakemonoRicer, get ready to witness broken gearboxes. Thank you Third Strike Fabrications for the fabrication work, bloody amazing! (he's ex Hypertune if that helps)

Skid video please

@mlr T28BB with better actuator, E85 & usual bolt ons will do 218~227kW (out of 4 S15s I've done). All on Mainline Roller dynos, on a Dyno Dynamics probably 240kW lol

It's super slow acting valve, not something that reacts fast like your idle control valve or similar. They often die on RB20DETs and you see hacks where people just block the air feed to it to prevent super high idle.

Nek minnit T28BB on E85 making 223kW

Did some one same Samsonas?

You're knock limited with port injection, thus running it leaner is not possible. With direct injection you get better atomisation, cooling effect of fuel being compressed at high pressures then decompressing in the chamber, thus your knock threshold is much higher.

Don't waste your time, you'll end up killing the pump with the OEM setup. PWM is the only way, not a drop resistor (like how the OEM garbage works).