Dose Pipe Sutututu

If that's the case, you're better off using a factory Nissan hg. It will be much more forgiving of not perfect mating surfaces. Otherwise you'll have to at a minimum skim the head and clean the deck surface thoroughly. The Tomei gasket is pretty forgiving Also ditch the OEM head bolts and use a ARP head studs instead.

On E85 people have pushed over 400kW at the wheels with close to 2bar of boost. Remember it's not boost that blows apart motors, it's cylinder pressure.

Sounds like injectors may have played up initially

Get a Tomei head gasket, they're o-ringed. Avoid Cometic MLS unless you deck the block and skim the head.

I've heard of them, however never experienced one. But my only recommendation is to go with a sprung centre/discs as it's 99% a street car as you've said. However, since you're only pushing sub 400kW have you given much thought into a NPC 10" single plate carbotic clutch? Yes they use Exedy parts however they're modified to allow soft pedal operation and smooth engagement. Another option (if you're in Sydney ish area) is to hit up Scott at Western Clutch. He can mix and match parts to suit your needs and also modify pressure plates to suit engagement style as well as clamp pressure. My last clutch came from Scott and handled 3 years of abuse on the track with 370kW+ out back on a single disc.

Doing it wrong, 2kg of MB5+ Waygu Oyster Blade is already $120. By the time you add in truffle butter, artisan bread, and all the sides + the foie gras you're at $200+ already. I could easily spend $1k on feeding the kids.

congrats now you can maybe chop Honda wankers

My guess, 123.0273480923794873298 kWs

This is pretty much how idle stabilisation works, you have an idle/decel table which dictates the base idle ignition timing, then there's another table which adds in timing or deducts from the 15 degrees of timing to reduce or increase torque to allow the motor to hit it's target idle, which is dictated in the idle target table. This is as close as it gets to the OEM ECU, I don't like the way it's done via Nistune however it works. A much simpler, more elegant way is using a RPM error table, such is available in plenty of mainstream ECUs such as kebabtech (queue the haters but I like using it). Here's the stock timing table, you can see that all the idle cells are 15 And here you see there's an idle timing correction table for when the idle rpm is not met And don't forget there's ignition timing added to warm up the motor too So yeah your "base timing" might be 15, but when you start layering on addition dimensions for idle control strategies, engine operating temperature strategies it can easily swing up and down. That is why when you're setting your CAS you need to lock your ignition timing, so regardless of inputs/compensation tables applied the timing will be fixed. e.g.

Might just be worth it connected the bottom part of each waste gate directly to a pressure source to see if they "crack" open.

you can use a Tomei headgasket, as they're o-ringed - same with the Nitto ones. Cometic requires you to deck the block and the head so they're perfectly flat. Nothing wrong with Cometic, but it has it's requirements. I generally use and recommend Tomei ones.

You need an oscilloscope not a voltmetre to determine knock, a knock sensor behaves very similar to a microphone. Like I said in a previous post, if you test the voltage on the knock sensor pin without the sensor connected you'll detect a voltage when using a stock ECU.

Disconnect your knock sensor and put a multimeter on your ECU knock input pin and you'll get a voltage too. Essentially that sensor acts as a pull down resistor. People in the past have disable then for Z32 ECUs by fitting resistors.

Slap, do you use Facebook? Maybe you can post your hypotheses up on Guild of EFI Tuners group. 90% of the people in that group actually tune cars for a living.

Really now? I am a dealer, so I'm not sure how you can get it cheaper new.

Not quite

My offer stands, I can supply you with a Nistune board, installation by Matt at Nistune himself, have the ECU bench tested and sent back. Also it supports full flex, launch control, boost control.

Yeah I know right? Oh wells, it is what it is but the coating is bloody good though so pretty happy about that. Now to wait for the rear turbine housing to arrive (whenever that happens), then I'll mock up the lines with some left over bits and bobs and put together shopping list and go to MSCN for a rape lol. After that, off to the fabricators then hopefully some skids.

Got my manifold back from Hi Octane Racing, they powder coated it for $280. Not a bad price, but felt a bit ripped off when I dropped it off and they were like umm can't give you a price now but it will be about $200 to $300.. like a $100 spread? Anyhow $280 later I have a ceramic coated manifold lol. Started to trim the studs on the head as advised by Sinco, turns out I only needed to trim only 1 not 2, mini win? Looking the part now, because Shitbox/Spareshit/karntbox aka Sparesmoron sent my friggen turbine housing elsewhere I decided to test fit this turbo.

Lol... everything taste better when it's free

Haha, yeah they're not like VAG or BMW.

Lol... how many cars have you popped on the dyno and tuned yourself? Yeah not many. Also the duct tape on your BOV return isn't doing you many favours either. I'm all happy to help people and give them some information but you've come across as some yoda, nearly like a Andrew Hawkins with a RS3 kind of guy.

Nah no real gain if your car isn't breathing much, also if your motor is stock then the way you've described is more than enough. I would leave the PCV connected, however once again if your motor breathes a bit then best to block it off to keep your intake manifold clean. Some useless information, if you have a big HP setup, with a big build - some builders will have slightly larger ring gaps, this in turn creates a little more blow by of which makes it way up to the head and into the cam covers and out the breathers.

Looks like an Aliexpress turbo, I am assuming their version of a GT2840

ECU doesn't really give a shit unless it exceeds a threshold and just pulls out timing, nothing more nothing less. It's not as advanced as modern ECUs, it's 1980/90s junk at best. Unlike an EVO ECU, it actually run multiple maps for low/high octane