Dose Pipe Sutututu

earthing problem and/or incorrect sensor

ddayemmmmmmmmmmmm man I want a 6 spd in my R33.. mine's notchy and crunchy as... usually on the track at 7k rpm it won't go into 3rd or 4th without a massive slam. Most of my mates mis shift and grind it, I just force it in like anal without lube.

I've requested our distributor to get Type-D rear pads in for EVO/STi/R33/R34 Brembos.. they only have front ones.. which is a little gaids..

once they wear out, I'll give you a set of Type-D (trade price) to review

I prefer a square set, that way you can rotate. I run 255 all round and they seem to hook up well with ~340kW and the occasional 370kW when I over take people... #datscrambleboostlyfeyo (yep HG is fuuuarked now).

^ yep spot on, thus I recommend to retard the cas by 3~4 degrees when playing with gameboys I mean SAFCs

hard to say to be honest

easy fix for Jez really.. all he needs to do is reduce the start base duty for x boost setting and perhaps set the start boost control offset at 50kpa or so

a honest review of Intima SR and Type-D pads http://www.trak-life.com/intima-brake-pads-review-sr-type-d/ you haz a read.

how's this car going? 4 years later lol

pressure side so the valve doesn't essentially have pressure against it.. pressure in the plenum and pressure on the coldside pipe would have the same +ve pressure on boost

those temps appear some what "correct", if the car is doing other stuff then there is some other correction being applied.. because the factory haltech base map only shaves timing and pulls out fuel above 70 degrees Celsius... you need a wideband!

what is the reading at the moment with the car running?

You need to specify the input using ecu manager then you need to scale the sensor to suit and enable the correction tables for that input.

maybe you should fix up your signature

they don't correct timing, show me how they correct timing.. enlighten me

come on... where's the "throw the twins in the bin" ? LOL

SAFC is shit.. you bend your AFM car runs leaner (good) but you end up running more timing at the same boost (bad). I've played with one a decade or so ago, but to keep things safe I retarded the cas by 3 degrees.

where's Piggaz?

I know some people hate the NT01 with a passion, but it hooks up great for me. Doesn't spin tyres once they're warm.. and cheaper than other tyres mentioned. I know there are better, but for an amateur just like yourself they're awesome to drive to and from the track on.

Fire and theft is a croc of shit... they cover max $10k, then you minus excess, admin, other bs costs.. you end up with a few grand. Also means premiums will be about $600... I heard vintage insurance is much better, in terms of cover and cost. My car literally does 2~3000 kms per year, the most it ever travels is when it goes to Wakefield Park and back home. 1x tank of E85 usually lasts me about 1 month, most of it wasted on starting it up revving it a bit in the backyard and turning it off (yes not good for oil but gets replaced every 2nd track day)

soooooo my shit box R33 GTS-t qualifies?

or don't run split dumps.. they're shit.

hahahaha, dw.. I have mates that once owned Efos... I've seen/felt their pain when motor revs, clutch works car makes crunching noises and moves no where LOLOL